AH64ID

Alright, so today I set out to dump the Delo and get back to my normal Amsoil routine. I put about 143 miles on the oil. It was back to being black, but not normal black and still thinner than new oil is right as you fill it. I started the morning out by going for a drive to get things hot. Once the coolant/oil were up to temp I pulled into the garage to let it drain. While it was draining I pulled the valve cover and mopped the dirty oil out of the rockers. I had some extra Delo so I poured the clean oil over the valve train and let it fall over the cam and out the drain. I then plugged the pan and poured the rest of the Delo over the valvetrain. I started the motor with about 3qts in the pan and ran it for about 10 seconds (yes I was showing about 10 psi). This was to push the clean oil into the pump/cooler and push the last of the dirty oil out so it would drain. I reopened the drain in the pan. I re-mopped the rockers again, and used a kids medicine syringe and sucked oil out of the freeze plugs, there are about 8 or 9 of them and each held at least 5ml, and I pulled about 40ml out of the back of the head since that's how it slants. Using a flashlight I was able to see pools of oil around the valves that wouldn't drain based on the slant of the motor, so I used the floor jack and lifted the passenger side tire about 8" off the ground, I was actually surprised how much more oil drained, probably 1/4 quart. So it sat without a plug for about 3-4 hours, all with a warm block and when I put the plug back in it was still dripping but only a drop every 10-15 seconds, if that. While it was draining I changed the full flow filter, back to a Donaldson EFL7349 and put a new EaBP-110 on and hooked it back up. I then added 3.25 gallons of Amsoil AME, and wouldn't you know the dipstick is 100% clear. There isn't a trace of black anywhere on it. I have never seen that, as those of you know with a 04.5-07 it's black before you start it. I ran it for 3 or 4 minutes at fast idle, and then shut it off to check the level. I must have gotten more oil out than normal because it generally takes 3.25 gallons to get me 3/4 of the way to full. I had to add another quart and the 3.5 gallons (all I had) got me 1/2 way to full. The color of it is amazing, it's like brand new gas oil. So the question is how long will it last... time will tell and I'll post back.

From what I can tell with an aftermarket oil psi gauge the oil heats up much slower than the coolant, so it takes a few minutes with the coolant at operating temp to get oil fully hot. I can be at 170° coolant and still idling at 40-50 psi of oil, where normal warm idle pressure is 20-25.

I haven't, I run a 15um full flow and a 2um bypass, so I have better filtering than the venturi filters. I haven't looked at the specs on the Carrier, but I have on the other 2 and the Fleetguard is the filter to run. I don't recall off hand the exact specs, but it was much better than the Baldwin.

Far worse, OEM filters are pretty good.

My mileage isn't poor in the mountains, but it's nothing like it is in flat land. I see the opposite. I would get low teens in the flats if your 3-4 mpg difference were true. Just recently I went from Kuna to Challis at 9K GVW and got 17. Pretty good considering I started at 3K, ended at 5K, and had 3 grades of 5-7%, one of which is about 10 miles long and takes 30 miles to drop 1000 feet after. 2 weeks later I did Challis - Kuna - Challis and got 19.3. So my mountain mileage isn't bad. We get plenty of wind here too, and yes that can cut the mileage in a heartbeat. A few years ago, pre cam/turbo, I spent 6 weeks in Tuscon and never dipped below 18. That's the best consistent mileage I have ever gotten, but it's flat and warm (was Jan-Feb so not hot). I wasn't even being too nice to it on acceleration, but the low requirement for power when just crusing at 70-80 made up for it and then some. I bet I would be in the 19-20 range with how the truck is setup now, maybe even break that 20 number. - - - Updated - - - Expensive oops!! But you gave the oil pan a nice flush!

I changed my oil twice on Saturday and both time the motor was hot at shutdown, and sat for about 30 minutes before I removed the filter. Both times the filter was about 1" down from the top. If you run the engine but don't get it to full operating temp I think the filter will stay full, but hot oil will drain back a little.

Did you buy it new?

Book price, it's a 10 year old pickup with 181K miles. If it's in perfect shape it's worth book, if it shows it's age it's worth less. He is trying to bank on it being a 5.9, but the 03-07's, really 05-07's are the only ones that are not decreasing in value. A 2002 is a generation behind the last of the 5.9's. - - - Updated - - - If you get serious about buying it I would pull the intake and check out the turbo, K&N's are not great filters and known to damage turbo's.

If I lived in the flat land like you do I could get that mileage pretty easily I am sure. I got 19.2 the other day on a 70-80mph run thru rolling hills. Your truck does pretty darn good thou! I think the rokkteh helps your cruise mileage, but I would be scared towing on it, based on what I have seen with UDC I think you could easily be running too much timing at load. How's your oil look? Mike has a 2nd gen, and that's where his mileage comes from. - - - Updated - - - Isn't it frustrating!

5.9's don't have EGR's. The way that the 04.5-07's met emissions without an EGR was thru 4 major things. 1) Timing, by retarding the timing the cylinder pressure was lowered and NOx production was reduced. This leads to a very late combustion, which puts more soot on the cylinder walls. The late (3rd) event adds to this. 2) Cam, the cam profile has a decent intake and a short exhaust. The exhaust opens/closes early, thus keeping more of the exhaust in the cylinder. Like an in-cylinder EGR. 3) Turbo, the turbo has a decent compressor with a small turbine and turbine housing. This creates a lot of back-pressure, which also helps keep exhaust in the cylinder. It's not uncommon to see nearly 2x the back-pressure as boost when towing up a grade.4) Piston design, the pistons are a non-reentrant design that somehow helped reduce emissions. On my truck I have advanced the timing to where it should be, thus keeping more of the combustion in the combustion chamber and away from the cylinder walls. I have also changed the cam to a more free-flowing model that has increased airflow, spool, and decreased resistance and EGT's. Lastly I replaced the OEM turbo with a model that runs less back-pressure than boost 99% of the time, which has improved airflow and reduced inlet and exhaust gas temps. Only the pistons are left from the OEM in-cylinder EGR. I run a quality synthetic oil, that is a full detergent oil with a 15um full flow and a 2um bypass and the flush still brings out some nasty crap!

I am finding the same thing with my UDC tuning, a slight haze under 30-50% load acceleration (I do mean SLIGHT), and clean under constant rpm's. Take a look at all older diesels that were tuned for economy/performance and they all haze a little under acceleration and they all use less fuel than their current counterparts..

Timing alone on my truck netted about 55rwhp in the mid range, and 200° cooler EGT's. Timing is huge, is plays a major role in economy, spool, power, torque curve, EGT's, and boost. I have probably 40+ hours in writing a tune for my truck, I would say that all but 2 of those are on timing, and timing alone. Trying to find that ideal timing. 12V's aren't nearly as complicated, but it's still a diesel engine and timing is very important. This is a general chart, the is geared mostly towards P-pumps. (This is all within reason, like the change from 13.5° to 16.5° or 10.5° , not 13.5° to 30° or 0°). [TABLE=align: center] [TR] [TD=bgcolor: #FFFFFF]Engine parameter:[/TD] [TD=bgcolor: #FFFFFF, colspan: 2] TIMING is: [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=bgcolor: #FFFFFF]RETARDED ( - )[/TD] [TD=bgcolor: #FFFFFF]ADVANCED ( + )[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]EXHAUST TEMP[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]CYLINDER PRESSURE[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]INTAKE MANIFOLD PRESSURE (BELOW P-TORQUE) WASTEGATED[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]BSFC (brake specific fuel consumption)[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]NOX (oxides of nitrogen)[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]HEAT REJECTION[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]HYDROCARBONS (HC)[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]BLACK SMOKE: 1000RPM[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]BLACK SMOKE: PEAK TORQUE[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]BLACK SMOKE: RATED[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]WHITE SMOKE: < 1000RPM[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]WHITE SMOKE: > 1000RPM[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Timing needs to be set where you spend most of your time, or want your motor to run best. A guy that lives empty at 80 mph will require a less advanced timing than a guy that tows 20K lbs at 2300 rpms all the time. They both need different timing than a guy that is sled pulling, or drag racing. So take that chart for what it's worth, as decreasing timing may actually improve economy.. if that's fits your motor better.

As you may or may not know the oil on 04.5-07 5.9's is BLACK as soon as you change it. I have modified my motor to remove nearly everything that contributed to the BLACK oil, but it still is BLACK as soon as I change it. I am currently 2/3 of the way thru an experiment. This past weekend I disconnected my bypass, and with compressed air I blew it out to help drain it. I then added a 1/2 bottle of Amsoil Engine Flush to the oil, and idled it for 15 minutes. I then drained the hot oil immediately. I put a CHEAP oil filter on, and filled it with Delo (BLACK 2 minutes after filling it). I then drove it about 6 miles to get hot (block was still warm from the first run and I kept it plugged in) and added a full bottle of Amsoil Engine Flush and idled it for 15 minutes, and drained the hot oil. I then filled it with Delo again, and a Wix 57620 (OEM equivalent), not quite as cheap as the 1st filter but still an inexpensive filter. Here is where the surprise came, I started it for 2 minutes and shut it off to check the oil. It's still black, but I can still read the letters and see the cross-hatch thru the oil. I have NEVER seen oil that clean on a 04.5-07 HPCR, and am still amazed. I am going to keep this fill in it for about a week and then dump it, fill it with my normal Amsoil and hook the bypass back up... well see how long it stays "clean" for. I have about 120 miles on the Delo now, and it's still as clean as it was on the first day.. maybe even a hair cleaner. My theory is that there is enough residual oil in the system that doesn't drain it contaminates the oil QUICK. Between the flushes and rapid oil changes I hopefully have cleaned the motor of the residual BLACK oil and will have better looking oil for a while. If it doesn't work, oh well I'll at least know that there is nothing that can be done.

Higher EGT's is likely from retarded timing (a few deg makes a big difference), a boost or exhaust leak. All of which would decrease economy.

Where is Idaho law that you cannot tow above 65? The 65 mph speed limit on the Interstates is for trucks, in Idaho that is defined as 5 or more axles, or over 26K GCW. Your truck and TT doesn't fall into a "truck" category. I have never seen anything that says I can't tow at 75 in a 75 zone in Idaho, other than my ST trailer tires :-) I think I have remarked in the past how insanely low your EGT's are at certain loads. Even on my brothers 12V VE truck they were never as low as you run. A 6% grade is still a 6% grade, with 3K lbs in the bed of my truck at 55 I pull 6% grades at 950-1000° (before UDC), and with a 8K TT behind me I pull them at 1100-1200°. I do 2250 rpms at 55 mph. The engine still has to make power, and 550 isn't hot enough on a CR to coast down a hill :-). Most CR's don't even run 550 at 70 mph, let alone up a hill. I only see under 600 (with the blankets and looser turbo) at 45 and below on the flats. The stock turbo ran cooler unloaded in some circumstances, but ran hotter 90% of the time when towing. I'm not even going to get into the 2 psi of boost; however, are you sure your speedo is correct? Based on your numbers I would say you were doing 35 not 55. I literally would be buying a new pyro if it showed what you report as EGT's. - - - Updated - - - Assuming your pryo is in the exhaust manifold, why stop at 1000°? 1200° is safe for all day operation, assuming your not running over 18-20° of timing. Really nothing in this thread sounds out of the ordinary. What do you run EGT/boost wise WOT? I watch IAT's all the time, and have some places I go camping that run 1000° in 2nd and 3rd. There still isn't enough heat being generated by the turbo to increase IAT's enough to notice a EGT change. Regardless of speed and load the most I ever see over ambient temp is about 35°, normally MUCH less. The biggest increase is at high speed, at low speed it's not near as much. Now that's a 3rd gen, but an intercooler is an intercooler.

That's so low that I would question the accuracy of your pyro, if I hadn't already done so in the past. :banghead: I am guessing 50-55 mph? I would be at 800° easy. My EGT's are very much inline with the OP, but you can't compare HPCR to 12V. As we have talked about in other threads the static timing really effects EGT's at low load, you run about 10° more timing that I do in that area. I also run exhaust blankets that ups the low airflow EGT's, and a looser exhaust housing on my turbo.

Michael,Doesn't Oregon give a CCP to non-residents? I have a Washington non-resident permit, since they don't honor Idaho's either.

If your showing 29 psi at idle you have a bad sensor, there isn't enough exhaust to make 1 psi, let alone 29. It's probably reading absolute pressure, so depending on where you live it should be 14.7ish at the highest.EDIT: I just noticed you replaced the sensor, I would check your wring. If you live at any elevation 12 psi is probably normal.

Yes Sir, that is the info as given by MADS.

How are you liking the new tune?

I found that forum the other night on my tablet, and plan to go back to it and do some more reading. It looks like a lot of great info.

Rogan's chainsaw thread reminded me that I have been wanting some info on this for a while. I read that adding additional exhaust ports to the muffler on a chainsaw will really improve the power, that and a larger carb or just a fully adjustable one. I have an MS260 with a 16" bar. It's a great saw, but like Michael, I spend most of my time cutting at altitude. I don't cut too much, but enough that I want a little more power at altitude. I am thinking of porting the muffler, and getting a fully adjustable carb for it. Thoughts? Experiences?

I would guess the LP went out first and took the VE with it.

Which is not always as easy as it sounds. SW3 makes about 900+ ft/lbs at the crank, that's 50% more than the trans was designed for, even an easy right foot is going to abuse the trans.

SW2 defaults. The trans is stronger, but also puts down about 285/520 from the factory. It's just a word of caution, as the majority of people don't have the luck you are having.