AH64ID

You may try what John recommended and leaving it plugged in may lessen the leaking time.. But personally I would just fix it.

I agree with gasser.... The number one cause of auto trans failures (aside from a right foot) is bad fluid. Fluid burns, then the trans suffers. The fluid is the hottest as it leaves the trans for the cooler, this is the only place you should watch it, anything else doesn't tell the whole story. --- Update to the previous post... 240° in the pan is a LOT worse than 240° in the hot line. But how much worse is hard to tell, towing, empty, DD pan, rpms, etc...

For some reason the 03-07 5.9s are all over the board like I demonstrated, but the pre 03 seem to be consistent and the 07.5+ seem to be quite accurate. Look at my annual averages, it looks like Dodge expects the truck to get more efficient as the miles add up, but it doesn't do it quite as much as they hope. So far this year I have varied from 8.39% to 20.21% off, really hard to use accurately. Thou the annual average is about 17.5% since 2009. 2007: 3.64% 1831 miles tracked2008: 10.95% 14650 miles tracked2009: 17.46% 22341 miles tracked2010: 17.5% 13210 miles tracked2011: 18.0% 9717 miles tracked2012: 16.1% 3160 miles tracked so far

It's the fuel the ECM thinks is going out the injector, the problem is that it doesn't think very well!!

The C&C's are still 305/610, and I don't see that changing anytime soon. http://www.ramtrucks.com/en/2012/ram_chassis_cab/capability/powertrain/ 4.88's make a HUGE difference, they have a 31% mechanical advantage over the 3.73's in your truck. His 6 speed auto is also geared far better for towing than your 48RE, so he puts more power to the ground that you do. You have the first vehicle I have ever seen weigh less than published curb weight. My advertised curb weight is 7259 and I have never seen my truck below 7700 EMPTY. I realize that all my extra filter, fluid, etc add up.. But I am 1200 lbs over "curb weight".

Where did you find 11.5 psi? The intank pump is regulated at ~8psi. The Bosch specs for the CP3 are -5 to +15 psi, with 2-12 being optimal. The CP3, unlike the VP44, could really care less about pressure it needs flow! Because of the above limits a light on a CR system is really a waste of money as it doesn't tell you much at all. A gauge isn't much more money and tells you a LOT more. I idle at about 9, cruise at about 7 and pull hills at 6, and can dip below 5 at WOT and above 2700 rpms at 400 rwhp with 3 filters in line.

Good report. With his truck being a C&C it has 610 ft/lbs and 305 hp, vs your 325/610. Only the pickups from 11.5 up, with an auto trans get the 800 ft/lbs.I am surprised how light your truck is! With me in it, my truck was 8420 yesterday. Full tank, small tool box, chainsaw, tie-dows, etc, probably only 250lbs in cargo. Is your truck 2wd?

On any CR timing is a good thing, to a point. The stock timing (more 5.9 than 6.7, but still) is based solely on emissions. Consider that with my Smarty JR UDC I am running up to 20° more timing than stock in some places, and am not running very aggressive timing! Since you have a Smarty Jr I would run default timing, you and your truck will like it! Here is a quick shot of stock timing vs a modified timing. Pink is stock and emissions based, blue is modified and performance/economy based. Timing is when the fuel is injected into the cylinder, relative to TDC (top dead center). Most timing is before TDC, but I have some ADC at low load/rpms for smoother operation. Timing is what sets electronic motors apart from mechanical. Even a VE pump, which some timing adjust, doesn't have the adjustability of a CR truck, a VP is in the middle and P7100 is fixed. Adjustable timing is what makes for smoother, flatter, and broader torque curves. Look at P7100 vs a CR truck. With a CR truck you can optimize the timing based on rpm and load, and personally I have a 27° spread from min to max timing. But you have to be careful, too much timing increases the cylinder pressure, and can cause HG issues and piston melting issues. But generally more timing means more power, better economy, and cooler EGT's, basically getting more power from each drop of fuel. Retard the timing and you get lower cylinder pressure, less power, but better emissions, and HIGH EGT's. My stock EGT's could pull 1450° towing and not do any damage, as the heat was all in the exhaust not the cylinder. With my modified timing I peak at about 1210° under normal and can touch 1300° if really trying. If I were to hit 1450° with modified timing I could easily melt a piston. Clear as mud?

The OH is a guess based on injector pulse width, but even on a 100% stock truck it's not very accurate.

What kind of gauge?

Here is the P0251 excerpt from the 05 FSM. [ATTACH]4130[/ATTACH] P0251.pdf

Just ordered one!! I have a single 10w solar panal and it really doesn't do much on a camping trip, just there for between trips. When camping it does keep the voltage topped off on a sunny afternoon if I run the gen for an hour or two. My hard start cap showed up yesterday, planning to put it in this weekend, with pics.

3rd gen's don't have a swaybar from the factory. I would measure the bar and see what size it is. Something is likely wrong with the bar (or older and smaller??) or bushings, the effect should be HUGE! I have had it on for a few months now and am still surprised at the difference it made.

I believe that 6.7 and 5.9 crossover tubes are not interchangeable.

I wouldn't even consider it in a CR, too many contaminates and engine oil is designed not to burn so you won't get full combustion at low speeds/temps.

With UDC it takes a bit more work to hit 1000° than it did before. I did add quite a bit of timing to the lower load settings, which is similar to the tone ring mod. Now I cruise with a 17.5K GCW at 65 in 6th at 800° on the flats, before UDC with a smaller trailer it was about 900-950°. Heck at 55 up some of the 6-7% grades I can hold 1050° at 17.5K, not too bad!

Pretty impressive, you must live in FLAT country as those are rare numbers for an 06.

I am surpised you didn't notice anything. Mine is literally night and day, and with the 1200-1300 lbs of tongue weight from my TT it really helped. I wonder if they changed the design? Could the bushings be worn, or not tight enough on the arms?

Got one of these ordered up today!! Got to get it and the pressure tank installed soon.

I'm pretty happy with how it runs!

Overhead or hand calc?

About $250.. and I still need to take pics.

It's far more than just EGT's, you have to consider timing as well. As cajflynn said he runs his CR heavy without gauges, and I bet his motor has been above 1500° more than once, without an issue. But at stock timing that's fine. Peak timing on a 04.5-06 at 2000 rpms is 6° ADC! That makes for a lot of exhaust heat and not much cylinder heat. I run about 20° more timing than that at those rpms, and 1500° would window my piston! So, long story short... stock or modified?

Technically yes... just like fast idle vs high idle.