AH64ID

Sometimes I wish I had a "boost control" instead of cruise control. Today I want to cruse at whatever 5psi will give me :-)The other factor is time, my time is worth something so I generally just cruise at a little faster pace but still reasonable. If I am going 500 miles and get 17 mpg at 75 mph (at 4.00 gal) it costs $117 and 6.7 hrs. If I am going 500 miles at get 19 mpg going 65 it costs $105 and 7.7 hrs, and depending on the circumstances my time may be worth more than $12/hr to me, other times it's not.

That's the setup I run!That's a group IV synthetic.

The higher the TBN the longer the oil can last. It does not mean it's long lasting oil, contamination can kill an oil before the TBN runs out (fuel, soot, wear metals, etc). New CJ oil's are lower in TBN because the vehicles are hard on oil thru regenerations. So in an older diesel, with good filtration, TBN is much more important if you want to run extended intervals. If you just want to run standard or short intervals TBN is of little importance.

The comp wheel will also have some balancing grinds on the back side of it. It so the parts can be balanced and the turbo doesn't require balancing post assembly.

Pretty common for an intact EGR system and light duty use, especially on new rigs. It's why I preach frequent oil changes on a new 6.7, but many just wait for the light, and many more ignore the light until 7500 miles. This is not a problem isolated to the 6.7, but to any of the 07+ emissions diesels. GM is the smartest thou, going to SCR and a 9th injector. If Ram were to go to 7 injectors and SCR this issue would greatly decrease. Just another reason to delete, or use it as intended.Cummins allows 5% fuel, and Dodge has gotten the algorithm fairly accurate for the oil change indicator. UOA could tell that guy a few issues, like a bad ring would have other contaminates showing up, vs not seated rings. It would also tell him if he is going over the limit, and that may help with warranty.

I'm on the opposite end of the spectrum and run a Group IV in everything I own!In addition to the longer life (which I don't really take advantage of with my current use) I feel there are other benefits.

Something else that would be cool is a 3 in 1 temp gauge, with a 3 position switch and a small light indicating sensor 1, 2, or 3. Really no need to watch all 3 all the time on a manual truck, but would be nice to know what they were doing every now and then. That way someone could watch any one of 3 temps of lesser importance (say oil, trans, rear diff) but not need 3 gauges.

I have been on this setting for nearly 3 months and I really like it!Nearly all my top end power is still there for passing, acceleration, etc.On slick roads there is a lot better traction and less flying gravel/snow/rubber. When UDC comes out I'll probably try to decrease the low load duration a little and then I won't have to PoD as much in the winter/dirt roads, which should help with traction/tires.

Welcome!We have spoken several times (phone and PM) over the years and your knowledge is welcomed. As soon as my first pricol takes a dump I'll be replacing them all with ISSPRO's.Any chance on a smaller scale low pressure fuel pressure gauge? 0-40 is a big scale for the standard Cummins user, 0-25 or 0-30 would be great!

Been doing any more playing with valves?

Mine is a 3rd gen, but I believe they have the same block heater. On a ~0°F night I get to mid 80's with the winter front closed off. On a ~20° night I get to about 110° with the winter front closed off. On a ~30° night I get to about 120° with one or two flaps open on the winter front. All the temps drop about 10° when I start the truck, and unless its really windy the IAT is within 5° of the coolant at startup. I use a timer and on a night when its 15°+ I generally get to 90°-95° in 90 minutes, nearly all the temp for a fraction of the cost.

My Smarty Reads codes, as does my Ultra Gauge and Scan Gauge. Of those 3 only the Smarty will clear them, even though the UG and SG try to. SG told me that Dodge uses a non-standard way to clear codes?? Either way the key trick should work on your 3rd gen, 03 IIRC.

I have been wondering for years if the 6.7 Harmonic Damper would fit the 5.9. The 6.7 version is a viscous fluid damper, like a Fluidamper, but at about 1/2 the cost. Thanks to a TDR member I now know that they fit and what it takes. So my parts are on order, and I will update this thread when I get them installed. Benefits are a smoother motor, and generally just a better part. Initial reports are that the damping is as good as, or better, than an aftermaket damper. Low rpm lug noises are greatly diminished, as is gear roll-over on manuals with HD clutches (like the Con OFE on my truck). The swap requires the damper, fan pulley, and 4 bolts.Damper p/n 4933224 ~$227Fan Pulley p/n 4930580 ~$50Bolts (4) p/n 4937228 ~$3 ea. This is for the standard 6.7 damper, not the newer HO version. The HO version is p/n 5285679 and is ~$466, and still requires the other parts. I am not sure its twice as good as the standard 6.7 damper, especially considering the initial reports on the standard damper.

For reference the grid heaters operate with pre-heat anytime the intake air temp (intake manifold) is below 66° F. The duration and frequency then varies based on ambient temp (at the sensor just after the air filter). Some post-heat uses both elements and some are just one, it just depends on the conditions. They will run for approx 2 minutes after startup, or until you hit 18 mph. Like Micheal said the grids pull 195 amps, and you have a 136 amp (peak, not at idle) alternator so there is no way to avoid the voltage drop. Contrary to urban legend it does not effect alternator or battery life.

I have used Blackstone, Oil Analyzers Inc, and Oil Analysis Lab . Of those 3 I like OAI the best, most complete report at the best price.

For $160 an oil change I think I let the oil run its course!

Me too! For the most part I change on a 12 month schedule, about 8,000 - 10,000 miles. Oil/Filter/Bypass at the same time, UOA every 7,500 on the oil.

I really want an old Military 1 1/4 ton (50's-60's) 4x4 dual front/rear with a 4BT in it!

You should be good then! Your trans should hold all your turbo can cool. Since it's built you can use TQ2. TQ3 is probably fine but I wouldn't recommend it.

It looks good from the website data. I would call them and see what they say, and see if they can find the invoice to verify the trans/converter install.If that's that case I would set it on SW5 and forget about it, since your in flat land.

Something I will do on my manual trans is put the transfer case in N, and the trans in 6th gear and let it warm up that way on fast idle. I only do this when the truck is cold soaked below 0°, and only for a few minutes as I scrape a windshield (otherwise I normally don't idle to warm up, as it's not as good for the motor as people think). It certainly does improve initial shifting and place a little load on the motor. I have no clue if this would work on a auto or not, so try at your own risk. You would have to put it in N and then shift the xcase back to 2hi, or whatever, but I am not sure if the auto trans will stop like a manual trans as there is no clutch to depress.

I haven't done the math for a few years but I think the timer paid for itself in 3 weeks of 90 minutes of usage vs 8 hours.

It just puts a hurt on the power bill! Otherwise no issues.

I would bump it up, from what Mike has been teaching you want to be above 14 all the time.

I would call them and see if it was a stock rebuild, or has upgraded parts. A valve body and torque converter can hold 400 rwhp fairly well, so that would be a nice starting point if you already have it. Yes those would be good in town settings. As for the turbo, with the Sr and towing the following are going to be your limitations based on EGT's and pulling grades SW1: none SW3: 4-5K feet elevation will start to get hot SW5: 3-4K feet elevation will start to get hot