AH64ID

What are the specs on your truck?

While they are more money I prefer electrical. They don't seem to have the issues that mechanical have, or can have.

If you are talking the pump only what negative things have you heard? I read about many more FASS pumps failing than AD's. Filtration is another story.. I would only run the Raptor or ADII, the ADI isn't internally regulated and is always moving more fuel than you are using and the flow rate thru the f/w sep is probably more than the filter is rated for nearly all of the time, where with the ADII it's close to rated flow if you ditch the LFF9594 for a Baldwin BF1275. When my LP fails, or I hit 100K, I am probably going with a Raptor 100. Plenty of flow and easy to bypass if it fails (nice thing about a CP3!!) in the middle of nowhere or at 2am.

My first thought was fuel filters, so hopefully that fixed it! Do you have a fuel psi gauge?Hopefully you have read the posts talking about filters and are running a Baldwin BF1275 and Donaldson P551315 on your AD.

Looks great! I have been needing to add a cutoff switch to ours. When we ran 1 12V battery I would have to disconnect the battery every time we got home or it would be nearly dead in 2 weeks. With the pair of 6V it can go a month still connected and have more voltage than the single 12V did after a few days, so the switch has moved down the priority list. I never had to disconnect my batteries from May thru August and they never were more then 3/4 (silly 4 light system) even after 3 weeks. Nearly all of our camping is also dry/boon-docking and I highly suggest the 2 6V setup, so much better.

You get em installed?

I had a skid plate made for my bypass filter as it was vulnerable. My f/w sep is over the xcase skid plate and not an issue. Neither are pumps, but need similar protection.

Those numbers correlate to their HD series, which makes getting super fine filters difficult as it uses hydraulic filters not fuel filters. Hydraulic filters are multi-pass rated, and designed more for instant flow and delayed filtration with a closed loop system, vs fuel filters that flow less but filter more per pass. Are you sure 1202 is the correct number? It's not listed on Wix's site. The FF1003 is a HF6604, 3um absolute hydraulic filter. Wix has recently redone their commercial/hydraulic filters. The A07A03G is the cross, and is 3um at 99.5%, which is excellent.. but that is still a multi-pass rating so it's impossible to determine what it is on a single pass. It's a good example of what I mentioned with flow vs filtration. It has 453 sq inches of media and is rated for 26 GPM, perfect for a closed loop hydraulic system. A comparable fuel filter, Donaldson P551313 is 3um at 98.7% and flows 1.7 GPM with 649 sq in of media. So which one do you think will pick up more 3um particles on the first pass? The HF6604 has worked well for many people for a long time, but it sure would be nice if FASS would switch to fuel filter and not a hydraulic filter. The 3405 crosses to the BF1212, which should be a good filter. Wix will not disclose their f/w separation rates.. so your on your own if you insist on running Wix. It cannot be verified if it meets OEM spec or not. The FS1212 does not, but the BF1212 does so the 3405 may or may not. Only way to know for sure is to run a filter with published specs.

When it shows up let me know what filters are on it and I'll make some recommendations.

Which 150, all 3 models have a 150 GPH option.

That sucks!What model did you order?

Same here.

Whoops, missed your link. I have found that 40 psi in the rear is good for me when empty, and the chart doesn't even go that low (1,600 per tire), but 1,945 per tire is 40 psi. Mike's chart would be 40 as well.For the front I run 55(winter)/60 (summer) as a minimum for stability, and that's at 2,400 lbs per tire. The chart says 55, and Mike says 60. I didn't use a chart to determine my pressures, I used feel and wear.. I think that validates both charts as accurate. Remember a tire psi chart is a starting point, not a hard number. Now towing I run 75/75 at 5,000 and 5,000 or close to. Toyo says 60/60, Mike says 63/63.. I like the stability, tire time, and wear of more air. The Toyo chart does use slightly different pressures, up to max load/psi, for different tire sizes but not much. I run either a 255/80/17 (surprised it was on the Toyo chart as the only tire in that size is a BFG) or a 265/70/17. They are both rated for 3195 @ 80 psi.

The rear needs less pressure and the front needs an alignment. If you can't align to OEM spec's then look at suspension parts. The tire pressure chart works! 0 load is 0 psi, but 0 load is tire off the truck, or ground. Here is a good article from Toyo, and should apply to any tire with the same size/load rating/psi. [ATTACH]3310[/ATTACH] Inflation_Tables_2012.pdf

3rd gear is 1:1, 4th gear is 0.69:1, so depending on the speed there may be a 1,000 rpm drop if you shift at redline. If you shift at 2500 1-2 is a 1020 rpm drop, 2-3 is a 776 rpm drop, 3-4 is a 775 rpm drop (assuming a locked tq converter, which isn't the case so the rpm drop will be slightly lower). You don't want to run over 2900 rpms, the ECM starts to defuel at 2900.

That does seem quite slow, but your boost means you have the fuel. So either it's an issue in the trans, part of the OEM tuning, or not abnormal. Is your speed re-calibrated? 3.73's should be 81 at 2,200 and 285's; 4.10's should be 73.

This Caution not temp specific, and refers to low idle. Do not idle the engine for excessively long periods. Long periods of idling, more than 10 minutes, can cause poor engine performance. Do not operate engine at low idle for long periods with engine coolant temperature below the minimum specification in Maintenance Specifications (Section V). This can result in the following: [*]Fuel Dilution of the lubricating oil [*]Carbon build up in the cylinder [*]Cylinder head valve sticking [*]Reduced performance Minimum Recommended Operating Temperature 71°C [160°F] As temp drops the coolant temp really drops (or stays low) at low idle. 2-3 minutes of idling is fine as the grid heater is keeping intake air temps up, which improves combustion.

Hmm.. let me look.

Run a Baldwin BF1275 and a Donaldson P551315 on your AD, and nothing else (certainly not Wix/NAPA). A hole in the bottom of the stock box is good, add a 3" piece of PVC to pull cold air, not hot engine bay air. Click on the link in my sig, on the bottom of that page is a link to a Home Depot CAI. The WG is set for 22-24 on the stock HE341, and with only 250/460 the truck may be more sluggish than you are thinking it should be. You may also need a trans tuneup, which may help your issues.I highly suggest a Smarty Jr. If you set it on SW1 it will give you HO tuning plus a little. It should wake your truck up and give you a little bump in economy as well. The Smarty Jr will also allow you to run an adj boost elbow and set the WG to about 30-32 psi.

I ran a 2" kit for the first 3.5 years I owned my truck. It annoyed me because anything I put in the bed, or towed, took WAY too much air in the bags to stay level. I recently went to the 1" top gun customz kit and LOVE IT, did I say LOVE IT!!! It looks better empty and loaded, the airbags take a fraction of the air, the truck rides MUCH MUCH MUCH better (better angles on the control arms), the fog lights are aimed better, and it handles weight better because more weight is on the springs and not the bags. I think stock isn't quite high enough on the oil pan, and looks a little too low empty and the 2" is a PITA if you ever tow/haul. The 1" really is a great setup.

Perfectly normal. ~32° and lower it will go to 1,000 rpms after 2 minutes; ~15° and lower it goes to 1,000 as soon as you start it. Then if the ambient is lower than 32° and your coolant is below 180° it will do it again after 2 minutes of stationary time. You don't want to interrupt this, it's a feature that helps the motor stay warm to prevent cylinder washing. Really you shouldn't be idling your truck before it's warm anyways, it's much harder on the motor than driving easy until the coolant is warm. The best thing to do is to fire it up, let it idle about 30 seconds to build oil pressure and drive easy. If you want heat sooner use the block heater. Yes 05's can also use the cruise control to adjust the idle. Smarty will enable this, as will the dealership and other tuners. With the truck in P turn the cruise control on, then press set. RPMs should go to 1100. Then use accel/decel to go up/down between 1,100 and 1,500 in 100 rpm increments. I use this feature all the time, to cool the motor after towing, increase load when idling in the cold, or provide more heat if I need to leave a kid in the truck in the cold.

Boost and rail pressure numbers are good. Your intake air temp at 150° is a little odd, that's probably the sensor on the air box. I am not sure how much the ECM uses that number for, so it may not even be an issue. With your homemade CAI did what did you do with the sensor from the airbox.Your homeade CAI seems to not be as cold as the stock setup. Stock should be about 10-12° above ambient, and you were +15°. What filters do you have on the AD? There is no true 2um filter, and the AD f/w sep is worse than stock, so just want to ensure your running as good of filter as you can. When you go WOT does the truck downshift? What's your 60-80 time?

That's the switch I have gone thru 2 of... it was hands down the noisiest thing in my truck at 80 mph. Jake discontinued it because they were such a horrible design.

I looked but my Auto knowledge is very limited, and have no clue.. sorry.

Plenty of guys doing the P-pump conversion on 24V trucks. A lot of it is because they are tired of replacing VP44's that fail from higher hp trucks. The VP can move enough fuel, but doesn't last like P-pump will. If your talking a mild motor then you are $$ ahead by maintaining a VP, but a 24V P-pump is a great motor!