AH64ID

He will be quite happy with deletes, but that may not be 100% the root of poor mileage, thou it can't hurt to delete the stuff. The 07.5-08's have a normal sized intercooler, and thus don't get the mileage of the later trucks; however, once deleted the bigger IC is great!Also, does he have current software on the truck? That makes a huge difference on the 07.5's.

If you have to buy one, may as well go aftermarket. They are all about the same as far as improvements and quality.

I believe the Borg Warner 50185 is as good as the GM, or better, and less $$. More folks using it now than the GM.

Just paid $3.17 here. Hope its a 12V!!

I haven't done it on these trucks, but it looks like a fairly simple project. There are OEM Service Manuals in the downloads section of this site.

You won't find me plumbing fuel into my cab, not for the fire scare but have you ever tried to clean the diesel smell out of clothing, carpet, or say behind a dash where you can't get a wipe and degreaser?I have an electrical and will always run electrical for oil and fuel.

It won't hurt anything, and my prolong the inevitable.

5um absolute

No it wont, just the 00+ trucks.

Interesting info!I certainly don't think it will hurt, just wouldn't count on it if the forecast is for asinine cold!

I still am not 100% sold on the effects of 2 stroke on gelling. I realize the pour point is much lower, but does 2 stroke have anything it it that will chemically prevent the paraffin from gelling? Or does #1 not chemically change the #2 paraffins?

A lot depends on the ambient temps, or they have oil pan heaters, or never shut the truck off. 15w-40 Pour Points in FDelo 400LE -22*Rotella T Triple Protection -22*Valvoline -22*Amsoil Semi-Syn -32*Amsoil CI -44*Amsoil CJ -40*-22 isn't all that cold for up north.

Full Synthetic 15w-40 is just fine in the winter. I run Amsoil 15w-40 year round and have no oil psi issues at start-up in sub zero temps.

Yeah stock boost maxes about 20, but when he does the towing mods he mentioned a 0-30 will be maxed out in short order.

Get a 0-60 boost gauge, youll end up needing it.

Like its been said run a good oil and it will stay on the bearing surfaces and you won't get a dry start. These seem to work well, but again is it worth it? http://www.allsyntheticsgroup.com/preoiler.html

I run Amsoil Diesel Concentrate on every tank, year round. I use it for the lube, cleaning, stabilizing properties. I generally only add Amsoil Cold Flow Improver for the tanks at elk camp (pre-winterized fuel), the first tank or so of cold weather (unsure when the stations switch), and if I am leaving the local area for a colder one. Otherwise the local blend works well for me. I also keep an Amsoil Diesel Recovery in the tool box year round, and 2 in the winter.

Well I did a little modification to my fuel filter setup yesterday. I have been wanting a fuel heater for the f/w sep under the truck, as well as a WIF sensor. The OEM Severe Duty Filtration kit always looked like a good idea, but it was way too much $$. But recently I found one at a reasonable rate and picked it up. I didn't plumb it how Dodge intended. They have the fuel lines that tie into the lines at the filter housing, then plumb back to the transfer case area, get filtered, and plumb back to the stock canister. Well that seems like a lot of unneeded hose, in addition I already have cut my OE line by the transfer case. So I picked up the banjo to push-lok fittings and hi-flow banjo's locally. I also had to turn the heater around so that the in was on the right and the out on the left for better alignment of the hose to fuel line connections. Then I ran the wiring. The main reason I wanted the OEM kit was the integrated wiring harness for the heater and WIF sensor. I mounted the relay on the back of the driver side battery tray, and hooked up the + and - connections. The wire that turns the relay on needs to be spliced into the power wire for the OE heater. This was the only part of the kit I thought was half-assesd. Everything else has nice weatherproof connections, why they didn't just add a pigtail connector to the OE heater plug I don't know. But its all installed now. I was concerned about the sensor hanging down, but its above the transfer case skid plate and won't be an issue. The WIF sensor needs to be replaced with the one in the kit, it must be a different OHM setup. The the OE pigtail plugs into the SDF harness. I haven't done this part yet as I am waiting for a tune from MADS to turn on the B20 WIF sensor option in the ECM. (I had Dodge turn it on last week, but the Smarty programing turns it off, but they are sending me a tune shortly). I haven't driven it yet to report on the fuel pressure, and its cold out so I am not sure if the ~1 psi lower was due to cold fuel, the moved sensor, or the increased resistance of banjo's vs -an, or the resistance thru an additional heater. I also took the time to redo all the hoses with the blue parker hoses. They still aren't bio-diesel compatible, but they should be fine for occasional B5 or B20 use. I also moved the fuel pressure sensor. Originally I had it plumbed to that my "T" for the sender was also a 90* fitting for the hose, now its plumbed so the sender is the "T" portion. Before I hooked up the hose to the CP3 I ran a bunch of fuel thru it to clean anything out. I was surprised how much fuel the pump actually moves at no load. I was getting about 30oz of fuel in less than 10 seconds, which works out to be 90GPH. That is a lot more fuel than I thought the OEM pump pushed and that just could be due to no load and the internal bypass isn't bypassing due to no pressure. The specs on the filter are, 25um absolute, 15um @ 83%, 95% free and 95% emulsified water removal, 30gr dirt holding, and 63.4 GPH. The filter is a FS19823, and Dodge sells it for $202. Cummins carries it for $37 but no one stocks it and I have been told a case min for an order. The FS19732 has the exact same specs, both are stratapore media but is .39" shorter. Its a common filter and is stocked by my local Cummins, so I will be using that one for my changes. The filters are rated slightly less than the BF1212, but as its the pre-filter I am not concerned in the least.

It will work, and the displacement is a turbo spooling machine!The heads have the same bolt patterns, but the 6.7 head is a little different for cooling the siamese cylinders. Injectors don't matter AFIK, just need a 5.9 wiring harness.

You know, I think your right? You still see their stuff every now an then, but not much anymore.

Nice, you'll have to let us know how it changes the performance.

Its been done. It will probably take a set of sensors for the ECM and one for the dash, unless you fab a dash from a 3rd gen into the cab as well.

There are 2 ports, one is hidden behind the heater core return line. I use the port above the ECM for oil pressure on my 05.

I am surprised your truck stayed at 190, mine cools off at idle even on a hot day it will drop to 180* in no time flat, and sometimes lower. Remind me why you don't run a fan?

The EGT's being low is part of it. The 3rd gens split the main event to help get cylinder temps up when the motor is cold.