AH64ID

Mine is 132 mm3 per stroke.

This is an older thread, but it popped up in the similar thread links at the bottom of the page so I opened it up.. My winter front is one of my favorite mods. I went with the OEM Mopar one, and it installs clean, and makes a HUGE difference. Without it my thermostat can take up to 12 miles to open on my daily commute, with 1 of the 4 sections open the thermostat will be open by at least 6 miles, and heat happens at about 1-1.5 miles. I have also notieced the block heater is about 50% more efficient with the winter front as the heat cant escape thru the open grill, which in turn means less electricity needed, and a warmer engine. Its been too long since I used it last winter but I want to say that my IAT's are about 3x warmer than without (normal is 6-12* above ambient, so 18-36* above ambient). I do remove mine on long highway trips as the IAT's can easily go to 100* in 10* weather with all 4 flaps open, and I think the block grill increases the wind resistance at 75 mph. I also won't tow with one installed unless its below 0* out, and a light trailer. I did minor towing one day at 25* out and the IAT's and Coolant were much hotter than needed. I have run mine empty on up to 60* days with all the flaps open without a coolant or IAT issue, so its nice to not have to remove it when a few warm days hit. The only drawback to the winter front is it takes the EGT's a long time to drop as there is little to no airflow over the turbo/manifold at a stop.

It certainly wouldn't hurt if it was effective. I would want to know the effect it made on IAT's, and if it was worth the money. Its the reason I went with the intake mods I have, I knew how effective the OE setup was and put the money into places I could improve it. Is there room to do a Home Depot CAI on a 2nd gen? Or even just improve the fender snorkel with some 4" dryer hose to a better spot?

I would put fluid in it for 2 reasons. 1 it may be your problem, and 2 it could do other damage. Start with fluid and go from there.

Quite interesting. My guess is the dynamic timing is the reason they can get more power off less fuel, but the dynamic timing also allows for adjustments that improve emissions, which always seem to decrease mileage (except UREA.. but Dodge hasn't gone there yet).

That makes sense, and indicates why it was listed as a possibility in the 02 SM. 3rd gens need them as the CP3 doesn't have the ability to know when TDC is, or RPM's are.. nor does it care since its common rail.

The mm3 on the tag is fuel flow at advertise hp (per injection, per injector), which should be the most fuel the injectors will dump in a stock setting.

mm3 is just what Cummins uses to rate the flow. Whats amazing is I burn 28% more fuel for 51% more power than you, yet yield lower mileage on the same cruise conditions :banghead:I too wonder where the fuel goes in the VP44.

I would start there.. I only run my fluid for 50K miles, and its good $$ fluid. If I ran OEM fluid I would be changing it much more often.

When was the last time you changed the fluid?

Nice vid... I know on my truck when I ran 448:1 I didn't notice any change in the engine, but B20 makes it SUPER quiet and runs about 1-1.5psi more fuel pressure across the board. Okay so looking at flow.. From what I can tell the intank Mopar pump is 35 GPH minimum. I will use my mm3 per stroke, as I don't know what it is on a VP44 truck (Michael can tell me off his data plate).. But at 325 hp I burn 18.2 GPH, so even at WOT there is a min of 17 GPH going back to the tank. A VP44 truck will be more return as the hp is lower. It should be constant as the pump are electric and pump the same anytime they have power (except the running vs non-running voltage)

Any update?

Can you put a washer or two, maybe a lock washer, on the power dist pole to keep the threads tight?But typically bad power sources or loose grounds cause low voltage issues, not high voltage, so I still think you may have a charging or regulating issue. But rule out the easy stuff first, like loose wires.

To give the big man some credit, I thought it had a crank position sensor.. guess it uses an internal sensor and the cam sensor for timing. CP3... lots o sensors!

I have heard that a lot, but NOT for me!!

I am going to start this by saying... I KNOW that color is NOT an indicator of oil quality. My DD (02 Jetta Wagon, GLS 2.0 5 Speed) is about to hit 100K miles, I just bought it at 95K miles so i am doing a little maintenance to it. The OE OCI is 10K miles. The PO ran Castrol Syntec 5w-30 for 10K and changed the filters at 3.5K, 7K, 10K ish for the 60K miles he owned the car. It appears he ran Fram Extra Guards.. not a Fram fan, but still an okay filter for a gasser.. Heck I really can't complain he ran an okay Group III synthetic and changed the filter 3x as often as required So the current oil/filter has 5K on it, but I want to align my 10K OCI with the 10's on the odo, and since I am at 100K (well 80 short) I figured today was a good time.. I started by dumping the oil in the engine, added the bottle of Amsoil Engine Flush and 4 Qts of Wally World Super Tech 10w-40. I idled the eninge for 10 minuets and this is what came out. New on the left, 10 minutes old on the right. Okay, so back to my first sentence... color isn't an indicator.. but that's 10 minute old oil, in a gasser.. That's impressive, my 4.0 4runner is that dark after 5K miles (thou it has a 2um bypass, but still!). I do realize the oil filter still had .25-.5qt of the old stuff in it, and whatever stays in the block... but WOW, it really appears to me the Amsoil Engine Flush cleaned some junk out of there!! So now I am letting the block drain for a while, then filling it with Amsoil European Motor Oil and filtering with a 15um Amsoil Nanofiber filter, for 10K OCI's. Open for all input! On a side note I used the Flush on my CTD right after the cam install, but didn't use new oil for it, just dumped it in and idled it, but I am sure it cleaned lots out of there too (if there was much with a 2um bypass)

It arrived on Thursday, but was damaged in shipping :mad:The compressor housing cam loose and damaged the compressor fins, and the fins damaged the housing. It was insured, so going that route with UPS right now. The guy I bought it from has a line on another one, so well see what happens.The turbine housing on this thing is HUGE, considering it holds the VNT I am not surprised. I do like the design of the 6.7 manifold thou, all 6 cylinders dump into one collector, instead of being separated like a 5.9, and especially a 3rd gen 5.9 that is 4/2 on the collectors. That alone should help flow/tone.

Okay, I found it in the 05 manual.. And in the 02 manual I found where is says the FPCM can control the injection if there is no signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor.. so I guess it could use one if it had one.

2005 Ram 3500 Quad Cab, Long Box, SRW, SLT, 4x4 Built 10/04; In Service 11/04 Bought Nov 2007 with 10,307 miles Sold on 3/18/2019 with 141,854 miles Drivetrain Cummins 600 NV5600 NV271transfer case Engine Mods Built by Big Twin Diesel 12/13 Smarty Touch UDC PRO, tuned by me Garrett Stage 2 GT3782R Balanced Rotating Assembly Hamilton Cam's 178/208/110 Hamilton 103# Valve Springs Hamilton 24V HD Pushrods Cummins 24V 1.3" tappets QSB 480 Pistons BBi Stage 1 MY03 Injectors ATS 2-piece Exhaust Manifold ARP Series 2000 Head Studs Fluidampr Southbend Con-OFE Southbend Hydraulics PacBrake PRXB Turbo Performance Products Exhaust Manifold/Turbo Blankets Airaid Modular Intake Tube GDP Flo-Pro Intake Horn GDP Air Boss Intake Plenum GDP Grid Heater Delete (MAY-SEP) GDP Big-Line Kit DT Pro Fab Steering Box Brace Kitty MIA Donaldson M090544 Muffler Flo-Pro 4" exhaust Home Depot CAI/WAI Gauges ISSPRO EV2's Gauges w/ warning lights -Boost (>38 psi) -EGT (>1250°) -Fuel Pressure (<3 psi) -Exhaust Brake/Drive Pressure (>65 psi) -Oil Pressure (<15 psi) -Oil Temp MADS MM3 Filters and Fluids Engine -Mopar 4" Pleat OEM Air Filter -Amsoil AME 15w-40 -Donaldson DBL7349 Full-Flow -Amsoil EaBP110 Bypass Filter mounted on a BMK-11 Trans -Amsoil MTF 5w-30 Xcase -Amsoil ATF Diffs -Amsoil SVG 75w-90 Power Steering/Brake Hydraulics -Amsoil ATF Coolant -Final Charge Extended Life 50:50 -Donaldson ECF4085 Coolant Filter Fuel Filtration -Baldwin BF1212 -Mopar Severe Duty Filtration Kit, with heater and WIF sensor wiring -Baldwin PF7977 OE Style 5um filter -Fleetguard FF5814 3um Fuel Filter, Mounted to the GDP Horn Suspension Top Gun Customz 1” Front Level Firestone Ride-Rite Rear Airbags Rear Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar Dynatrac Pro Steer Ball Joints Yukon Spin Free Hubs, with Yukon Lockouts Bilstein 5100's MAXX Links Sway Bar links Wheels/Tires 245/70R19.5 M608z LRG on Black Vision Type 81 Heavy Haulers with Counteract Balance Beads 255/80R17 LRE Cooper ST MAXX on OEM Forged Alum wheels (hunting tire) Do-Dads SiriusXM OynX Satellite Radio ViAir 450C compressor Cobra 75WX-ST CB Weather Guard Tool box Mopar Running Boards Mopar Vent Visors Fender Flares Garmin Nuvi 1200 Garmin eTrex Vista C Mopar Winter Front Max Brake Hydraulic over Electric Brake Controller Titan Class V Receiver Brite Box with Fog Light Control and Fogzilla Mag Hytec Front/Rear Diff Covers Fast Coolers OEM Clear Cab Lights Duraflaps Geno's Console Cup Holder Current Dyno 415/850 MM3 UDC Pro Usage Stats Best MPG: 21.54 Avg MPH: 32.6 The day I got her. Installs/Writeups 3rd Gen Fuel Filter Install 3rd Gen Home Depot CAI 3rd Gen Power Steering Flush 3rd Gen Coolant Flush 3rd Gen Oil Bypass Filter Install Garrett Powermax Stage 2 GT3782R Install/Review

Thats what I was wondering, so I went to the 05 service manual and couldn't find a pic of it either and I know the 05 has one :banghead: So I wasn't sure... But now I know.

I am not finding it in the 02 service manual, but IIRC its on the front of the block, behind the harmonic balancer. There should be a ring with teeth, and a sensor off to the side of it. On my 05 its in the 5 O'clock position looking from front to back.

Thanks for the info..I am still not sold on it being valve overlap, since the EGT's are min 400* with the EB on I would expect to see a MUCH higher temp increase if it were overlap.

Thanks!The more I look at them, the more I like them..I am sure the steel chromies would look killer.. Heck even if you sell em I am sure they would pull more than the $7 the paint costs...

Whats he running for tuning? I presume its off to the dyno to get tuned? That should help clear up lots of the codes.

Its the same thing toyota does, it lets you run one hot and two grounds, vs two hots and one ground.