AH64ID

So here is what I am looking at. 208 Tire is cheaper, but they don't come with a road hazard warranty. By the time I add in the 3rd party road hazard they offer the cost is the same, maybe even a little cheaper at Commercial Tire. I'd really like to do business with 208 tire, but not sure it's worth the hassle of their 3rd party road hazard. Anyone ever dealt with 3rd party road hazard before? I've used the road hazard warranty on most sets of tires I've owned on my pickup. Elk hunting where I do is hard on tires.

Any answer as to where it was leaking yet? It's always nice have a spare rig! Do you put ethanol-free in the '96 when you plan to leave her parked? I always top my rigs off with ethanol-free when they will be parked more than 3 weeks, and it does make a noticabe difference when I get them back on the road. I'd hate to see what ethanol fuel does sitting for 6+ weeks in the fuel system. I know what it does to small engines... and that's not fun.

The ‘12 should have the upgraded single fuel filter. It would be very easy to add a BF1212 to the system pre-OE filter. The 07.5-12 trucks have the same hardware, but tuning got better over time. They are still more problematic than 13+. They are better the harder you work them. Yes, injectors should be in the back of your mind but there are often signs of impending failure. Depending on where you live deleting is a good option. How many hours on it?

Interesting. I’ve only ever heard of the WTS light and leak detection P1222/P1223 being active on the 5.9’s. The CEL hasn’t been in any 6.7L CEL list I’ve seen. 6.7 injectors are much better, and 6.7 tuning is easier on the injectors with much lower cruise pressure. Peak pressure is higher, but average pressure is lower. OEM filtration for the 6.7 is also a big improvement, especially 13+. But don’t be duped by cheaper than OEM filters, as I haven’t found any yet with adequate filtration relative to OEM. I’m still researching them thou. I’ll add that the 07.5-12 trucks, pre DEF/SCR, are much more problematic with regards to turbo life and emissions equipment issues. That’s assuming all the emissions gear is installed.

How long is just the timing belt? I've got a coolant leak on the passenger side I can't quite pinpoint, so I'm trying to decide if I'll tear it down for the timing belt at the same time. I've got about 90K on this belt.

Maybe, maybe not. Some OEM's have contracts that don't allow for that. I've told you the FULL specs for opening on this form several times... so you can search for it if you want it, but I doubt you'll spend the time. I mean holy crap... you, and others, have had an issue with it but you're defending it as being proper. It doesn't even look close to correct, but it has to be! Just when you think you've seen everything... It's amazing how you think there are better manufactures than Cummins, yet think Cummins is flawless in their part numbers and applications. It's visually apparent it is designed for a different head, and very likely an application error.. but i digress, you can't see the forest for the trees. If the part looks wrong, with the "correct" part number then don't run it. It would never have made it in my truck had I pulled it out of the box and it looked like that.... nor would the one on the far right of your photo in post earlier.. it's not a good design to match the head, it's a cheap design to reduce the cost of the part. There is a reason the bypass portion looks different than all the others, it's cheaper and doesn't appear better. Thou that's not really the topic of this thread, it's OEM vs non-OEM... and like @NIsaacs said, I don't know of anyone looking at it that black and white.

Who cares who makes it for OEM? It's made to OEM specs, that's what you're buying with OEM. Aftermarket stuff doesn't always adhere to OEM specs, fuel filters are a great example. NAPA fuel filters for 3rd gens don't meet minimum spec, and the spec is published. I've bought multiple OEM thermostats over the last decade and they ALL look the same, because they are all the same. Your "new" 19 thermostat isn't anything new, it's been an issue for many years. It doesn't work for most, and I'd guess the rest don't notice it running cooler. I am not sure why you're so stuck on it, when anyone who actually looks at it realizes it's not correct for the application. It must work on a modified head, or needs something else to work with it.

So that would make complete sense as to why the bypass looks like it won't work with a standard ISB head, and will cause engines to run cold. I've never heard of a revised bypass depth head thou.

In speaking to those 3 specific items it's due to the poor reputation of non-OEM parts. With all the forums we have the ability to learn from others experiences, good and bad. Those experiences have taught us that certain aftermarket parts are generally not as reliable. It's not going be that way every time, but if I read about more premature NAPA thermostat, water pump, or fan clutch failures than OEM you had better bet I'm not going to buy or recommend a NAPA replacement. Doesn't that just seem like common sense? As I have said every time you have an issue with people recommending OEM, there are just some parts that are more reliable when they are OEM. Despite what you might think, it's not black and white on OEM or non-OEM parts. Plenty of non-OEM parts are better, just as plenty of OEM parts are better. Take the experiences that people post and learn from others good and bad luck, otherwise why use the forums.

Big difference in repair parts and upgrade parts. In my younger years I would get cheap parts store parts and they were junk, but I was broke and had time to replace them... sometimes on the side of the road due to premature failure. Now I have less time and more income, so I use higher quality parts. That doesn’t always mean OE, but often it does. It does however mean that parts store parts won’t find their way onto my truck, or any other rig I get out of town in. I’ll put some parts store parts on my commuters as they are spare rigs and don’t go anywhere I must have absolute reliability with. But not all parts are from parts stores, some are still OE. Depends on the part. Something I’ve learned thru experience is that lifetime warranties normally mean you’ll spend a lifetime replacing it. Rebuilt with the absolutely cheapest components.

It takes a single event tune, which has to be done with UDC Pro. Do you have UDC (S06 or SJR) or UDC Pro(Touch or MM3)?

I had a filter on my 05, but the coolant I used didn’t want a DCA filter. I took coolant from the cylinder head and returned it with the heater core return. I was younger and felt anything non-stock was better... won’t be wasting time with a filter on my ‘18. Here is a link I did for a write up on a 3rd gen. Only real difference will be volume. Since you’re also replacing the thermostat you can modify the old one for flushing. This article used to be here, but I couldn’t find it just now... so this is Forum B’s link. https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-tech-articles/220514-coolant-flush-3rd-gen.html?amp=1

You wanted information on a good reliable brand of thermostat, and now that’s pissing on your thread This is all thermostat discussion on what’s good, what’s not, and what’s correct. It’s not even off topic at all, but feel free to react this way. Sorry if you’re taking it as anything else, but really it is all here to help you and anyone who searches for the info in the future.

It actually is helping with your question. Can't help you make an educated decision when you're given information on the wrong thermostat. Multiple people have run into the issue Michael did, so it seems that there may be some messed up part numbers in the parts manual that need to be watched out. At the end of the day there still is a Cummins part available.

Just look at it, it's very obviously for a different application. It's not able to close the bypass, hence wrong application. You should have enough experience and maintenance know how to realize that, and shouldn't have installed it. It's not new.. I quickly found photos of that EXACT same thermostat from 2012. It was the wrong thermostat for the application in 2012 as well. Not when it's the wrong thermostat....

Missed that post (back to getting too many emails, and clicked the newest email link), however, did you get a replacement for the new one? Did it look the same? That looks like the wrong part, as it doesn't appear to be designed to work properly with the bypass, which would make it run cold. It's easy to tell just from your photos it's not going to work properly. Quick search shows other threads where your "NEW" thermostat is the wrong thermostat for the application. So that begs the question, are they mis-packaged or wrong in the parts manual. One thread was 2012 with the exact same thermostat...so it's not a "New" design.. it's the wrong thermostat. Same issue as you, running cold... so that's not a failure of the thermostat, that's the wrong part for the application... those are 2 very different things. I'd give NAPA praise if their stuff worked... it just never has for me.

Cummins might change manufacturers, but the specs likely don't vary from mfg to mfg.... Either way, not sure how it can be wrong when the forums are full of failed/improper operating non-Cummins units and I haven't read any of those issues with OEM thermostats. Non-OEM is a crap shoot, not so with OEM.

I have always been under the impression that drilled and vented rotors provide lower braking on normal, day to day, driving/towing due to the decreased surface area. They only provide increased braking when the pads are hot and lots of gasses need to be expelled, which shouldn't happen to most of us with pickups... that's a race car thing. If your brakes get that hot on a regular basis it's either from an overly aggressive driving style or bad trailer brakes. You shouldn't be asking your truck brakes to stop the trailer. The OEM pads for 3rd and 4th gen's are great. They are quiet, last a long time, and plenty powerful for weights above the OE GVWR. @dripley if you need to spend money, spend it on OE 3rd or 4th gen stuff... if you have 17" wheels. The other reason for sticking with OEM, or near OEM, is that the ABS is calibrated for the braking coefficient of OE pads. If you live somewhere with snow/ice and put drastically different pads you will change the way ABS works and generally it's not for the best.

Cummins or nothing for me. I won’t put a NAPA anything on my truck. Too much junk over the years, heck I won’t even buy shop towels at NAPA. Lots of threads across the forums about issues with just about any non-OEM thermostat.

Cheap rotors means cheap metal and decreases service life. Probably got what you paid for out of them. I like your idea of resurfacing the OE rotors.

That's not the injector solenoids. I haven't heard that on mine, but I also haven't stood at the front for a remote start with the grids working and it's too hot right now. My guess is that it's the turbo running the vanes from full open to full closed to keep them clean, and you just happen to hear it when it doesn't fire up right away. I'll pay more attention as as cools off this fall.

I just heard about this today. Of all 8 reviews on etrailer only 1 had real data and it was a horrible review for the gauge. Maybe in a lab you can use angle adjustments to calculate load, but not in the real world. There just a way to accurately account for all the variables.

1/16” is a lot more than 0.05°. I don’t think that toe-in can be set that low with a tape measure. While OE spec is higher than 0.05°, the closer to 0.01° the better and that needs to be done on a precision machine.

Look above your last post, I already linked it.

By 1 piece tie rod you mean T style, not Y style? https://www.thurenfabrication.com/media/wysiwyg/THUREN_FAB_ALIGNMENT.pdf