AH64ID

Sounds great, but why let it idle for 35 minutes at -13°F? Anything more than 3-5 isn't necessary and just wasting fuel or potentially creating wet stacking issues.

It will slightly shift the axle, but I can’t notice it like I could with my 2”. I haven’t noticed anything with the steering, or alignment and the ride is 10x better than with the 2” spacer.

Best of luck @Mopar1973Man. Be sure to holler if you need any help while you're in town. I think you'e got my number.

This is the one I run. https://www.topguncustomz.com/i-25499269-1-inch-leveling-kit-1994-2001-dodge-ram-1500-1994-2012-ram-2500-3500-2013-ram-2500-4x4.html?Session_ID=7b8d37b5f09212a4d1d9e88b0d989260

I'm toying with running the single event tune for some towing to see how it does. If that's the case once it warms back up I'll redo my numbers.

Is there a 50° difference when cold/off as well? I drove the truck this morning and this photo came to mind, so I got on I-84 and set the cruise at 65. It puts me at ~1850 rpms. Coolant was 190°, IAT was 40°. I'm currently running my single event 12V Tow tune, which has 14° of timing at this rpm/load. Load was around 18% and 30-36 mm3. EGT's floated right at 600° ±25° and after 8 miles my economy was 22-23, but not enough miles to see how it holds nor enough to be fully warmed up and have temps settle to their "normal" range. (Warmed up I'll see 500-550° under the same conditions). The truck was also cold, oil temp didn't get to operating temp until 4-5 miles onto the interstate so I was burning some extra fuel there, especially when you think about the 8 qts of 75w-90 in rear diff with minimal load to warm them up. It usually takes me 40+ miles of winter driving to see the cruise load/EGT's drop to "normal" once everything is warmed up. So when I consider the truck wasn't fully warmed up, I'm around 1K lbs heavier, and have more parasitic drag I'd have to say they run pretty similar temps/load/economy.... but the intriguing part is the timing difference which does nothing more than highlight the differences in VP vs CR injection. So on a VP you have to really increase the timing at lower loads since that's when the VP starts building pressure, whereas on a CR the timing is when the injector opens... big difference there! When I am running a tune with a pilot and getting similar mpg's the EGT's are always higher, which comes from having a pilot and not being able, nor needing, to run the main with that much timing. The retarded timing means more heat out the exhaust, but the mpg's mean I still getting peak efficiency out of it. If I get much above 8° of timing with a pilot event I start to haze and lose efficiency. Just some morning commute thoughts and such

Probably a great idea. Likely a combo of low batteries and air in the system, both of which he alleviated the day it finally fired. In the winter batteries will be low enough to cause issues in as little as 10 days, if not sooner on weak batteries. The P0201-P0206 are likely why it will not fire. Figure out what's going on there and you'll likely fire. Bad harness? Bad ground? Bad connection? The 06-07 have the harness incorportated into the valve cover gasket right? It's not hard to damage. Good, hopefully it's not damaged. That is a boost and rail pressure fooler... My 0.02, don't hook it back up. Rail pressure foolers are hard on injectors.

At 205K miles on CR injectors there is no real good reason to be rebuilding the injectors yourself in the truck. I don't think this is recommended by anyone. CR injectors, aside from R&R, are not a DIY thing. With the last set of codes he got it makes me think the wiring harness for the injectors has been damaged during all the work. With up to 26K psi of rail pressure I wouldn't be using hardware store parts on CR injectors, but I also wouldn't be rebuilding them myself :-) Pull all 6, and put 6 new ones in it. New, not reman. If the check gauges was driven by the oil pressure then he may be in for a rebuild anyways. There is only a 6 psi switch on that motor, so the pressure has to be below 6 psi for more than 30 seconds to get the check gauges to appear. Not sure how well the internals will like a lack of oil pressure thanks to fuel dilution, but probably not well! Hopefully you changed the oil, and I'd change it again after a couple minutes of running just to ensure all the fuel is out. At least 1qt of oil stays in the pan/head/etc when you drain it. What programmer has he been running?

I don’t need a stupider phone :-). There are a couple forums where my typing gets doubled, usually just a word but not always. This forum and Smarty Resource are the only places it happens.

Stupid phone!

Ah yes, that will happen. Ah yes, that will happen.

My thoughts as well.

I am very happy with 33’s and 3.73’s for 95% of how I drive. Every now and then 4.10’s would be nice when towing a TT at 65-70 on the interstate for hundreds of miles, but that’s maybe once a year.

Yes gearing is huge! Not a lot of 3rd gens with 3.42's thou. They were only an option for 2 model years and had to be coupled with a G56. The vast majority of SRW trucks are 3.73's with the 68RFE.

The wheels themselves seem to be very good, it’s just the tire weight rating that falls short of 16’s and 18’s.

Generally speaking 17’s are worse than 16’s for weight rating for a similar size. It has to with fed regs. Somehow 17’s get screwed.

If you ever get your RAW above 6400 lbs I would look for 4th gen 18’s. 17’s suck for any decent load rating.

I don’t notice much difference unless I have around 1K in the bed. I need about a ton centered just aft of the rear axle to get to the ideal 50:50. Yeah, torque can be tricky. My throttle sensitivity is lower than stock for winter and dirt purposes.

Don't forget about all the increased parasitic drag in winter too. Dense air, colder grease, colder fluids, and such.

Agree!! I've been cooking on one since '94 and have always been happy. I have been eyeballing the new Timberline Series, but ouch$!!!

I'd be curious what they tell you.

What kind of smoker did you get? I've been smoking things on my traeger and it works better than expected on a long smoke. In the past I've never gone over 4 hours from 40-140° so curing wasn't required, but I may try curing some sausage/brats in the future.

Anyone else cure their own meat? I’ve been making my own game sausage the last couple years, but never any curing. I thought I’d give curing a try. I just started last month with bacon. Man it is delicious! We ended up with about 8lbs from a pork belly. 2/3 was applewood smoke and the last slab was peppered and applewood smoked. I went to lunch today and had a tri-tip pastrami sandwich... so now I have a slab of tri-tip curing in the fridge.

Pretty much exactly how I feel about the 5100’s! I wished I had installed them sooner. I would not call the 5100’s soft by any means, they are firmer than stock, and I wouldn’t want them any firmer. They are perfect from 8K GVW thru 12K GVW. Maybe my 1” lift qualifies me as lifted? Thou I run stock springs at all 4 corners, plus the airbags.

@Blueox01 what was failing in your NV5600’s?