AH64ID

If you rebuild I wouldn’t use mahle parts. Dad’s rebuild got mahle wrist pin bushings... let’s just say that it now has Cummins parts. Mahle didn’t make it 20K miles before it was knocking. The builder quit using them compleatly.

I'm more inclined to be in the "might as well" camp. I'd hate to do a HG and then in a few months start getting more blowby, or have a bearing issue. You won't know all of the engine condition just taking the head off. 367K miles is nothing to complain about. These are pickups and not OTR trucks, very different load cycles for most of us.

ARP for head studs, and Cummins for gasket kits. If you're pulling it apart I would consider having the rotating assembly balanced. I don't recall it being expensive and WOW!!!

Yes, they can hold those temps but I personally wouldn't push it past 1400°. Timing plays a huge role in cylinder temp vs manifold temp. A stock 04.5-07 can hit and hold 1450° and never have a cylinder temp issue, but a modified one can be at 1250° and have a much higher cylinder temp. 1250° is my continuous limit with how my motor is tuned.

Can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard specs don’t matter.... coolant isn’t coolant oil isn’t oil

Time will tell...

I started with a M085171 40" Donaldson. It's a straight thru design that sounds great, but the exhaust brake whistle was too loud so I added an OEM resonator from a mega-cab truck. Same tone, just less exhaust brake noise. When it came time to replace the OEM exhaust I wanted a different Donaldson and went with the M090544. It's longer, but I like it a lot better. There is less volume, but more deeper tones, and the exhaust brake is quiet. It's flow rating is more inline with where I spend most of my time so it does a better job deadening the sounds. The problem I found with most the popular "diesel" filters is they lack the proper flow ratings.

Which is why it can simply be the ignition delay from cold cylinders and fuel, the timing may be advanced but if the delay is longer the actual timing at which the ignition occurs might not be as advanced (the main reason timing advances on a cold motor).

I monitor oil pressure in the cam journal so it's likely a little lower than the oil filter head where many monitor it. Warmed up (oil temp 195-200°) idle: 18-20 1600: 40-45 2000+: 55-60 Hot (oil temp 225-230°) idle: 15-18 2000+: 40-45 There is a high pressure relief valve in the oil filter head that opens at 75 psi to avoid excess pressure. Even with that valve open I can see pressure as high as 85 on cold oil. I have to say I've never seen a Cummins bulletin about oil temperature, only coolant temperature. Between my IAT (off block), IAT (intake manifold), battery temp sensor, and MM3 pyro junction block temp sensor I can without a doubt state that the block heater indirectly heats a lot more than coolant. The block heater may only directly heat the coolant, but the radiant heat from the coolant does, and will, heat the oil in the pan and the block. It's very obvious on my oil pressure gauge that the oil is much closer in temp to the block than the ambient air. The oil temperature rises much slower than coolant temperature, and more-so on cold days without any block heater operation. The coolant is generally 25-30° warmer than the oil on cold soaked start and warmup. It takes a lot more than a minute to get the oil to temp. It might take me 12 miles to get the coolant to operating temp and then another 5 miles to get the oil to the same temp on a 15° morning without a load.

Those are a good tire. Dad runs them on his 06 when the camper is loaded up. They are one of the last few 17’s with more than 3195lbs of load capacity.

It probably has to do with the ignition dealay being longer with cold cylinders.

Yeah, if you’re changing it that often (unless it’s a year) the ADO and ADP are plenty.

Gotcha, no 0w-40 available outside of signature series. I didn't even think to look at ADO or ADP as I normally only look at their oils with extended drain intervals for non-DPF engines. My dad runs ADP in his '17, since has has to change it every 6 months (or mileage which isn't often) for his forever warranty.

I’m a dealer and do it the same with a direct jobber down the street. I’m going with DME this change, and I’ll be picking it up tomorrow. But honestly the 5w-40 doesn’t have the specs to warrant going away from the 15w-40, when you consider all of them. The 0w-40 does, if you need the cold protection. Keep that in mind for next change.

They are everywhere. How are your intercooler and a/c condenser?

I know there are 5.9 vs 6.7 pump differences, but they are interchangeable. A 6.7 pump on a 5.9 generally makes it run hot as the coolant moves thru the radiator too fast. I’ve personally never had good luck with NAPA parts so I don’t use them anymore.

Sure didn’t wait too long for answers. If you ordered online you can probably call them when they open in the morning if you want to change.

When the center of the axle is only 7.5” off the ground I’ll take 1.25” of extra clearance, same goes for rocks and such. When the axle tube starts to drag then issues start to arise and 1.25” is a lot, IMHO. Its all about what trade offs we want to make. We’d all get better mileage in a 2wd truck, but for many of us that would be worth it the few times a year we use 4wd. For me the taller tire means more clearance and it’s worth the slight hit I’ll take the rest of the time.

I generally get mine online. Both times I've bought them ryder fleet products has had the best price.

I run a 255/80R17 in the winter and love them. They aren't huge, but have more axle clearance than 245's or 265's. Since they aren't very wide they also have less unsprung weight than other 33" tires. I had 4 chains on breaking trail yesterday thru 10" of fresh snow and only drug the diff a couple times, I am pretty sure it would have been nearly constant with 245's or 265's. There is that fine line between compromise and necessity, for me that's 255/80R17 in the winter and 245/70R19.5 in the summer. I've contemplated a gear swap to 4.10's for years, but the only place I'd really get a big benefit is at 65 with a trailer in 6th which I don't do all that often but when I do it's normally for hours so I start thinking about gears again. It's also only with the added drag of a camper trailer. Then again I did 750 miles in a day two weeks ago with a horse trailer and 4.10's would have been annoying in 6th at those speeds. So my money won't be going to gears...

Yeah the fan is great on the 3rd gens, especially where I can control it's engagement temp and speed. I didn't realize there was that much of a change in radiator design. I mostly tow between 3K and 7K, but will get up to 8K on occasion. It's rare to be high, hot, and needing full power as the roads don't allow for it. Yes, I would think your system could handle that power. The new 6.7's have more power and a smaller total cooling system size than your 2nd gen. What water pump are you running? Is the water temp gauge accurate? Does everything indicate the same after sitting overnight?

Look at the Donaldson catalog for resonators and/or mufflers. I find they to be much cheaper as they are industrial, but they work great and last a long time.

Looking at the Amsoil spec's there isn't a lot of difference between the 15w-40 and the 5w-40, but the 0w-40 has an additional 14°F protection. The hot properties of the 0w-40 are also better than the 5w-40. I would personally get the 0w-40 over the 5w-40.

So I've had the gauge in for about 6 months and lots of towing. In the summer on a 100° day, pulling a long grade the oil will get up to 235° when the coolant is 209-210°, that's at anywhere from 17-23K GCW. Last week I ran 750 miles in one day to Wyoming and back and never saw the oil get above 205°, and I was towing the whole way. I was towing about 8.5K lbs out to Wyoming and 4K back. On the way out the ambient temp was 12-23° and coolant held 193-195° at 75 on the interstate and oil was 195-197°, on the way back I ran 80 on the interstate an oil temps crept up to 205° on some hills, but the ambient was up to 35-43°. All in all, it has been a fun gauge to watch and ambient temp does play a big role in how fast it warms up, cools down, or how hot it will hold when towing.

Can't say I slow down often either, and even on 100°+ days on long grades my coolant doesn't get above 211° at WOT for miles. That's with more than 150 additional rwhp.