AH64ID

It moves and improves the vent filter for heavy dust environments.

The return goes to the fuel pump module, which is not pictured since it is removed. There is a severe duty vent kit offered. I believe you want 68061341AA with a long bed.

That corrosion on the banjo bolt appears to have been there a while. How long have you owned the truck?

I am pretty sure the OEM PRV will leak at 26K psi, so that makes me lean back towards rail pressure sensor. It's a relief valve that should allow excess pressure by and since the highest OEM pressure is 23,206 it would be okay to dump at 26K. 26,112 is as high as the OEM sender goes.

There are other things that the RP effects, so you could have a bad sender and have it mimic... that being said it still sounds like a FCA even if it is your 3rd. Know anyone you can swap one with locally for troubleshooting? How old is your fuel filter? Cloudy fuel won't make it run max rail pressure, but bad fuel can damage things but it has to be bad for a while.

Gotcha, it's a power supply for when on 120V, but won't charge anything. I always understood 12.2V as 50%, unless things have changed recently? I am not sure why they would thou. Did the battery charge on the drive home? The heater may dry something directly in front of it but propane exhaust contains water so humidity is hard to fight.

A stable 12V? Is that 12.0? Does the battery charge when hooked to the truck? 12.3 isn't bad, nearly depleted but still just above 50%. A vent-less propane heater will work well until you get wet, then it will be very difficult to dry anything. Using 12V when camping isn't a big deal.

I was going to tell you to be very careful buying a popup for the reasons you listed, but I see you already pulled the trigger!! :-) Looks like a nice setup and I bet you can't wait to use it. I do have a couple questions thou.. Why don't you want to use 12V power when camping? Why remove a forced air furnace? Cold weather camping will be less enjoyable without one and a canvas walled camper, even if you keep it cool in there. Why not use a good 120V 3 stage converter? They are smart chargers that provide all the 12V power you need as well as properly charge/maintain the battery. You may have answered some of those in the course of the thread but the website is not cooperating right now and I cannot get all the pages to load.

If the rail pressure is that high at idle you don't have a HPRV issue, which you have tested, and I am going to guess you have a bad FCA or Rail Pressure sensor. Really those are the only two things that will cause high rail pressure at idle. Program the truck stock and see if any codes pop up. The Smarty tuning may disable a code or two that could help with troubleshoot... but then again maybe now. How long does the truck sit between running? I have found that the Touch will drain the batteries in 2-3 weeks and have to unplug mine when it sits more than a few days. Depending on ambient/battery temperature the 3rd gens will call for 15V+.

Coolant filters, at least all the ones I have spec'd, don't have the flow for being inline with the heater hose. Mine takes pressure off the head and then returns to the heater core return. This allows for it to flow at it's own rate. You wouldn't ever catch me sticking tap/well/hose water in my blocks.... Distilled water is cheap and free of the crap you don't want in your block. The ISB holds too much fluid to think you can actually get all the tap water out, it's just the design of the block.

Worn out seals will leak with conventional or synthetic oil. The reason that leaks appear with quality synthetic is because they clean the sludge/residue off of the seals and gaskets and allow the existing leaks to leak.

That tells me you have some sludge buildup in the motor. Synthetic doesn't create leaks it simply removes the crap plugging the leak.

If the leak is tolerable fix it at the next oil change. I agree with you on the Dino oil... I never felt comfortable with it in my engine and the power turned up.

Load is reported by the ECM and GPH is calculated by the SG. Load is simply the ECM converting fuel flow to a number, which is why there should be load at idle, 4-6% normailly. If load is off its likely not the fault of the SG. I sold my SG because it would work with my 05, it's an error in OBDII outputs. My Touch reads the same load errors but it does so much more than the SG. You actually do need load at idle for it to be accurate, but if you have very little idle time it can still be fairly accurate. Since there isn't load at idle the best way to calibrate it would be to fill up near an onramp, go drive for 20-30 miles turn around, go back and fill back up. Try to avoid any idle time. This will set the calibration, thou some tanks may be off based on idle time.

Don't look at fuel mileage while tuning :-) So the boost elbow closed is routing more air thru the secondary turbine which is why it's working harder and the primary is making less boost. The pressure ratios are much closer and the primary is in a better ratio. P: 2.6:1 S: 2.3:1 IMHO you are just going to have higher drive pressure based on the turbine sizes, cam, and overall exhaust flow from all that fuel; however the difference is only 0.05:1 between the two WG settings so I would leave it with the secondary working harder and accept the 5 psi more drive on WOT high rpm runs. We can, hopefully, tweak the DP with timing thou.

Big injectors!! So try this. TST on 2. Smarty on 3 with the following Revo Settings Timing: 3 Duration: 1 Torque: 1 or 2. Then retest with timing on 2 and 4. I like torque to be low when dialing in a Revo tune. Once the tune runs great across the board then torque can be increased to the point where it drives how you want. See how that effects your boost:drive and what the timing does for the ratio.

Ok... so let me think out loud. Caveat is a I am not a VP guy, but a diesel is a diesel right!! So what is the highest TST setting you can run on your airflow with good EGT's and only a greyish haze?

Does it do anything with timing?

What does the TST do and what is adjustable on it?

If the secondary's WG is big enough it shouldn't be a restriction, but that's all dependent on the WG flow. So without the Smarty the DP goes way up? That tells me you need more timing, but there could be other factors. The 12cm housing is tight but at your elevation it may not be. Thou with the twins, cam, and injectors a 14cm may work better across the board. Even at 3000' my GT3782R (64/65/.89) pushes above the 1:1 above 2600ish rpms WOT. It doesn't get as high as 1.2:1, that I recall (haven't monitored it in over a year), but at 2000 rpms it's around 0.8:1 so there is a decent rise.

25 seems high for the secondary to be opening, but maybe it's not as bad once you throw drive pressure into it. How much boost is the primary making when the secondary opens? I have always liked the idea of the primary boost opening the secondary WG, but it takes a lower pressure WG to work. This way the secondary opens based on the primary being spooled, which varies based on rpm/elevation/etc. Hook a load up to the motor and go find a grade. Then look at boost/primary/DP at a fairly fixed rpm. Partial, 3/4, and WOT. That will give you a good indication of settings. While 2nd gens are a different beast than 3rd gens, in terms of OEM cams, I disagree. I am on my 3rd cam so it's not just a OEM 3rd gen vs aftermarket. I think a cam is a great mod, especially for towing and spooling. It is a TON of labor thou.

Sorry for the delay. I thought I responded already. The Smarty Touch is a touch screen programmer/gauge set. It has the option to monitor all the OBDII outputs (boost/rail pressure/load/IAT/etc http://madselectronics.com/pids2006.html) as well as a pyro. The touch also comes loaded with Smarty Revo tunes. For a box tune the Smarty is untouchable. The touch is also compatible with UDC, which is Smarty's custom tunes. You can tune yourself of buy custom tunes. Since you have an 06 you are also able to run EFI Live. EFI Live has more customization than UDC, but it's all custom and doesn't have any incorporated gauges. That's not really an issue just the difference. You could tune yourself or buy a tune, just like UDC. There are also the new HP tuners, but I have zero experience with them at this point. So what are your end goals? If you are after some gauges and simplicity the Touch is the way to go. If you are after a custom tune you need to decide on how custom it needs to be. If your sticking with stock injectors/turbo/clutch/etc then UDC has more than enough capability for that. EFI would really shine over UDC with various aftermarket parts; however, I run lots of aftermarket parts and UDC more than suits my needs and my truck is great to drive.

Maybe your axle is different but I haven't ever worked on a trailer axle where I could clean/inspect/repack the inner wheel bearing without replacing the seal. The EZ-Lube, or whatever they are called, is not a substitute for regular repacks.

What clutch? What is your desired use? Power goals? Etc... Those all play a big role in recommendations.

Great write up. You should include rev/mile for the tire/speed calculations. It is far more accurate and readily available for just about every tire out there. Example. My 255/80R17's calculate to 33.06", but roll at 625 rev/mile which is only 32.27" on the rolling diameter. That's a 2.4% difference. I have seen tires that are upwards of 5% different in rolling diameter vs published size.