AH64ID

Correct... a quick look at the valve cover will tell the rest of the story.

2000 is a split year on input shafts right? So it may or may not use the same clutch. If you do any towing at all I would not go to a NV4500 from a NV5600, but that's just my 0.02. Both the NV4500 and NV5600 are discontinued so I don't see any appeal to the NV4500. If you really don't want to spend the money for a NV5600 get a G56.

All trucks have the oil cooler which is behind the oil filter mount. These can leak and generally it pushes oil into the coolant since the oil pressure is higher than coolant pressure. They also have different degrees of leaks and a small one can be self sealing as coolant/oil temp rises. An oil cooler leak doesn't describe the coolant loss thou.

Unsure and my memory my be out to lunch...

The oil is hotter but the bearings may not be. I thought the reason for overfilling wasn't the upper bearings but issues with all the bearings on an incline?

Short trips are hard on any engine but it is worse on diesels as they warm up so slow. Take my VW Jetta with a 2.0 that warms up VERY fast compared to my truck or wifes 4Runner. We moved this past Decemeber and made a bunch of short trips, about 2 miles, between the houses. The engine never really got warm. When I changed the oil in February the short trips were very evident as soon as I took the oil cap off. There was cold oil vapor sludge about 1/2 thick. In the previous 40K miles I had never seen it which means it was due to the short trips. The block heater is a good idea but the exhaust brake is not. An exhaust brake on a cold engine pushes a lot of soot into the oil before the rings/pistons warm up and fully seal. I have seen this on a UOA. The 6.7 allows it but I am almost 100% positive that it doesnt go to full brake mode but rather just a little bit of restriction. The 6.7 also builds boost when exhaust braking so there is more intake flow than on a 5.9 with a standard exhaust brake. My dad has several clients with diesel engines on their yachts. He advises them all not to idle the engine between trips as even a warm engine without a load wont heat the oil to the point where the moisture evaporates. He tells them to take it for a cruise if they want to run the engines. So I would use a winter front, a block heater, and save for a beater car... in the long run your truck will thank you.

So did I, but there is a pyro in his sig??? Altitude, rpms, temperature, wind, etc can all vary EGT's by a very broad spectrum. At sea level and 1800 rpms I can't hit 1250, at 4K feet it takes about 15 seconds WOT, and at 8K feet it takes about 5 seconds WOT. Too many variables not to tow with a pyro... unless you have qucik spooling twins and 350 rwhp :-) even then...

That is a pretty bold statement for a single turbo and larger injectors. EGTs do different things when towing and I wouldn't tow anything decent without a pyro. EDIT: you have a pyro already, are you simply refering to the warning light?

My noise level increased when I went from 7ish to 8-9 qts.... it isn't bad but it is noisier.

I have PTO coolers on mine and between 8-9 quarts in it. It shifts great, better than most I hear, but it rattles more at idle so I may try 1 qt less at the next change.

http://ext.wsu.edu/hay-combustion.html

That's doesn't seem too bad for the age and miles.

That explains some of the miles per tank you get. I only do once or twice a year for hunting or long backroad trips. I account for the fuel between the click and neck full on the next tank. My truck quite often gets fueled and parked for a week or more and a tank full to the neck has nowhere to expand.

With that cute little trailer? That is a bit lower than I would have guessed.

Do you top off into the filler neck? On my truck that would be about 30 mpgs.

If only one battery got the charge you have a crossover issue. As far as the size it shouldn't matter if there is no drain, the batteries are in good shape, and they are charged when you start tending.

My guess is that the gauge and pump compensate for the altitude differently, and provided you with an indication issue.

What kind of gauge?

I put 4th gen ones on my 3rd gen and they were a perfect fit. Do 2nd gens use the same screw pattern?

I just don't do enough easy driving to see it. This is my first tank without any towing since Feb and most of those towing miles are a 30' barn door.. I mean travel trailer. So I have to enjoy it while it lasts.

It is the micron rating. So 100% of particles 20µ (micron) and larger are caught by the filter. An absolute rating is at 98.7%. A nominal rating is anything less than 98.7% but generally 50%. Basically you want the smallest particle size at the highest percentage, which is why the Donaldson ELF7349 is the best at 20µ @ 100% and 15µ @ 98.7%.

Have you had a chance to talk to the engine guy about synthetic yet??

Which is the reactive steps to fixing it... be proactive when towing and load your trailer correctly.

Only when you are talking the same style of media... and even that is not always true. The ISB oil pump is rated at 20.5 GPM at 4200 rpms and the ELF7349 is rated for 20 GPM. At normal rpms there is no limit to oil flow, even at higher than normal rpms. The 57620XE on the other hand is only rated for 12-15 GPM... so it has lower flow and lower filters and just another example of why I have so many issues with anything that says NAPA or WIX. Wix 57620 30 @ 95%, 20 @ 50% Cellulose 12-15 GPM Wix 57620XE 25 @ 95%, 14 @ 50% Glass Enhanced Cellulose 12-15 GPM Fleetguard LF3972 30 @ 95% (35 @ 98.7% last info) Cellulose 8.72 GPM Fleetguard LF16035 30 @ 100% (25 @ 98.7% last info) Stratapore Synthetic 8.72 GPM Donaldson ELF/DBL7349 20 @ 100%, 15@ 98.7%, 7 @ 59.97% Nanofiber Synthetic 20 GPM As you can see not even the OEM filters have the flow rating of the pump, but the Donaldson BDL7349 does and it also has the best filtration so it is hard to beat. Good quality synthetic media is a whole lot better than cellulose. I'm still sticking with CI-4+

Yeah that a new 80 area. Looks like poor loading of the trailer, too much speed, and bad driver skills.