JOHNFAK

170 not a problem it passes by the heat exchange but no idea why higher ...,,

Think I'll order a reman from rock auto. For 45 and see ...,

Dunno man. Basically it just sucks.Only thing is - the DTT valve body was a prebought unit right ? So if bill is having you send the VB back - then its looking like a DTT issue not the tranny shop. Unless it was just parts and they did the actual VB work.Id get the VB checked adn back into the truck. Work out whos fault it is and then work with that shop or DTT to get the rest fixed or recoup some funds with root cause known. Only other issue could be leaky tranny (seals/clips and not the VB. Then bill will know after testing and you can take it up with teh shop and send to bill for once over then.

auto or manual is there are tag on the turbo take a pic for us and upload

Why would the switches ohm out different tho ?

Well Im 99% its teh switch. I found a wiring diagram in FSM. When I ohm out that switch I get 1 in up position 1 in neutral poistion 0 in down poistion when I do the drivers side (broken) I get 1 in up position 0 in neutral 0 in down position these I am pretty sure should all be the same (each side match) --- Update to the previous post... The video shows the wiring. I cant disconnect the wires from the harness. At least I dont think - will recheck.

how ? --- Update to the previous post... Anyone know where to get a wiring schematic for this part of teh harness I want to test the other side (passenger side) and see if it ohms out the same Not sure which wires without pulling passenger off also

Honestly dont know how to do that without a powerprobe. The door has to be take off so the switch gets disconnected from the harness. Even if the harness is attached back to the door --- I would need to pierce the sheathing on either the blue/white wire as a guess to check for 12v going to the motor - and operate the switch at same time - definately a 2 person job. Thing is 12v applied to motor works right (window goes up). The two wires ohm out at close to 0 like a normal wire (assuming this tells me we have good wiring) We have 12v full time going to the switch. So in my head - that ONLY leaves the switch as the problem correct ?

Not sure how to easily tell as I *think* it should be a constant 12v - the switch just establishes the circuit in eitehr the up or down position. So not sure which wire is 12V on the wiring harness and if that assumption is correct (constant 12v). Things I know so far are 1) Window motor works fine with 12v direct applied to motor harness 2) The 2 wires that come from factory wiring harness to the motor harness both ohm out at close t 0 (like a normal wire) 3) When I try to OHM the two points on the switch in the door itself (the backside electrical prongs with the harness disconnected I get a value of close to 0 in down and neutral posiution ... and 1 in up position - not sure if this is right seems weird 4) The red wire in the wiring harness to the door switch has constant 12v - regardless of key on or off

Ok - need a hand - I suck at electronics Drivers window would go back up. New motor/bracket for window 2 months back chasing this issue. Worked flawlessly - till a week ago started having more issues. When I apply 12v direct to window motor harness it goes up and down fine - so its a problem with the switch (in the door where you move the windows up and down) or the wiring in the harness. I assume the switch in door connects the circuit when you want to window to move. That is the circuit is "broken" when the window switch is in neutral position. That means that the harness should have constant 12v right ?? So how do I multimeter the harness to check the blue and white wire ? Do I use the 12v setting on the multimeter or the ohms ?? Assuming the 12v. Also should I be getting a constant 12v reading there - or not ?? thanks Im on the road today towing and would like to fix it !! video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlzgj0ZNIvY --- Update to the previous post... I ohmd out the white and blue wire on 200ohms setting. They both read at almost 0 - same as just a regular guage wire. So thinking that means the wiring is fine. Problem with the switch in the door ???

ID say thay sounds right from what I have read. Problem is a lot of guys cant hit 40 with the factory wastegate and even if adjusted with factory or low injectors. So 30 seemed more appropriate So I think looking at the results - you dont need aftermarket studs towing on a mainly stock truck (HY35/HX35).

Did he say why it's low ? It's there vb right ?

Haha well I do like to go a but faster up hills than others ... But I have two tranny coolers and monitor temps pretty well .... The point of the thread was really to show/determine that towing over 30 psi has no more impact on head gasket failure than just regular driving over 30 psi. Cylinder pressures and drive pressures should be much same ... Same fuel same turbo same boost .... Just different loading ... Based on results so far I'd say it seems true And yes I probably need to slow down a little ..... But 45 with OD off is a good hill towing speed for me for rpm and egt

Id love some details here - any brands ?? Im guessing its this one. http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/8907-51861847rh47re-300m-cryo-treated-billet-input-shaft-p-33443.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-TRUCK-CUMMINS-5-9L-TURBO-DIESEL-SFI-FLEX-PLATE-WITH-ARP-BOLT-KIT-/160785077830?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256f899646&vxp=mtr

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/27-hvac-heating-ventalation-and-air-conditioning/57-air-conditioning-evaporator-core-heater-core-replacement

How about the dash removal and install MOdel# on the backup camera and price ?

pics ?

Honestly most of these ^^ questions noone that hasnt been into the internals can really answer well. Each vendor uses same parts mostly and just custom design depending on their approach. Different springs and tolerances and drilled out plates. What I mean is the line pressure in my REvmax is probably same as a DTT build. But the way it does the lockup engagement is "softer" than DTT as they dont bore out some of the holes the same size. Stall - make sure you get this one right. I am pretty sure thats what Im fighting now with my truck being slightly laggy until lockup. Problem is I have no reference point having not driven in another vendors 3x setup ..... so I will be taking mine to a performance diesel shop to see if a different stator design or stall will help. As for single - a good forum friend of mine runs a single disk suncoast on CF at over 500hp. So yes they do hold and work and less harsh on lockup ......... so it can be done this way too ......so I do believe your builder I just don't know anything about CVC. Bands - never done them - when my tranny came out the DTT builder tightened it by hand with the tranny flipped over - he mentioned something about its more accurate that way - but hes a builder with over 10years experience. I think it equates to basically the same pressure as tightening and backing off ....... but he obviously tested this himself over the years so he knew how. Id speak with your builder and speak with goerand (expecially on torque convertor). THen just decide if your going a mild build (same tranny just single TC). Or almost full build with 3x disk and billet input / band/ apply etc)

I guess thats it right. Youve never been way over 400 hp and never have I. I've read the same threads by DTT etc saying that its hit and miss. Hes basically talking about a stock plate (the SFI plates are thicker, tested and approved by SFI). Ive also been in contact via pm by the two guys who run the SFI plates off ebay and each run VERY high HP numbers - some of the biggest on CF. So what are you going to believe. In the end I go with whats been tested in a truck that is built higher than me. If two guys can run 100's of pulls on an SFI plate at close to 700-900 HP - what makes you think I need to spend another $350 on a billet flexplate at almost 1/2 the HP and torque ??? Ill try and relink the thread here sometime. You can PM them yourself. --- Update to the previous post... Here you go Hes got over 800HP fuel only http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-performance-parts-discussion/491758-called-goerend-garmon-today-what-do-8.html#post5071352 Cant find the original post - but this guy and the other both have extrem HP trucks , both with SFI flexplate - and both with combined 100's of passes and his only comment was about the ONLY thing that didnt break was the SFI flexplate. All the DTT/Goerand stuff did (due to his numbers) 800-900Hp - real world testing - good enough for me

Id have no problems running the used cores. He flow tests and balances them - well he says so - so Id just ask that. Most vco injector failures are supposedly in the nozzle itself. Most aftermarket injectors are generally built on used cores.

Stock flexplate Stock input shaft 400 Hp possibly wanting 500 thats the problem - 3x disk lockups at over 400HP are getting close to where you need to be concerned. Nothing wrong with the transmission core - its perfectly fine and is built pretty much the same as any high HP truck. You dont need a "billet" flexplate The SFI flexplates on ebay are in trucks that hold over 900HP. Many many passes. $110. Save yourself $350.

Jacob at diesel auto power should have them - either on new bodies or cores (different prices.). I havent run contagious diesel - I think they are a good builder - I would be curious to run them myself and was in contact with them recently.

You also have a cam and about the best injectors you can buy. I *think* your saying that pulling the trailer up a hill with that much fuel/boost means you could break other things like a tranny ............

Well that sucks ...... but still a nice truck. Honestly - if it was mine .... Find out the cyro shaft maker - probably precision industry - it will probably hold but maybe better to sell and get a 1 piece sonnax or IE. Sell the cryro and recoupe some funds. Go with a well known tripple disk like GOERAND with lifetime warranty. Install a SFI flexplate from ebay. That way you have a fully built auto and never have to worry. Its too nice a truck. $700 for shaft $1300 for Goerand 3x TC $100 flexplate $2100 Sell the cryro and the stock TC for $500 $1600 out of pocket - but its done. But if you absolutely cant swing it - what he says seems like a good deal also. It would make me nervous on those bigger injectors you have though - exact boat I am in now.