JOHNFAK

Yeah same here. The DTT kit splices into the PCM and fools the voltage seen due to the increased line pressure. Its to prevent the truck going into limp mode (gov pressure sensor I think ) from too much line pressure (and voltage seen) with the aftermarket VBs . Most kits increase the line pressure to hold the clutches under increased HP/torque etc. I dont know the specific numbers - but I never heard of a higher than stock not using modified line pressures - its the 1st thing that generally recommended to be done. Think that alone should explain enough on that - just not what the upper limits really are ...... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/186150-47re-line-pressure-gov-pressure-issues.html This guys says hes running over 235psi -250psi in a race truck http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86478&page=2

Good description How does the line pressure in the tranny feed the TC - thought it went through the pump - but maybe the flows the other way around. Also - doesn't the lockup solenoid engage the TC lockup clutches via a mixture of the TPS/line pressure values ?? What I mean is I didnt think it had anything to do with pressure in the TC - just simply the TPS as well as a certain line pressure on your VB will then engage the lockup switch for the TC ........

Cant imagine its swinging 40 deg in 4 seconds (183->203->183) Something wrong with the sensor ? Cant you buy a coolant sampler to test for gasket failure in coolant .....

hmm ....but the line pressure is for the internal gear clutch packs right - nothing to do with the TC ..... thats just the TC pump.

Im really not sure I think the line pressure has nothing to do with it ......... I think its just a switch to engage the lockup clutch ............. like 2nd gear lockup etc .......... all I do know is that using the TC lockup for braking is really hard on input shafts .....obviously with an exhuast brake -- not sure how much your using the TC lockup ........ so again not sure - and just subscribing instead :think:W&F will know

Sure does. Wouldn't have thought it would have made that much difference in the sand - but good to know Thx boss. ok quick side question - I am going to be hitting the beach like almost everyday for 1 month. I am not allowed to wash the frame down at RV park. Nearest wash is like a 10 min drive the other way. ok to wash down every 3-4 days ??? Not really sure how much its going to help anyways since I hit it each morning whilst I am here.

I just installed the exact same water pump from pepboyz ..... no issues with fluctuating temps FYI

Pulled the red, yellow and black wires off and no vacuum. So going to have to track it back further ............... where to now ........ What I dont get is this always worked fine and I still have vacuum in my CAD and cruise .........

How does that help pulling the weight of the truck through the soft sand ? Would have thought that would just help in less hopping as you said and better traction when in 4wd ? Ive been driving on the sand and road last two days with 25 front and 20 back. Thinking of bumping the fronts up to 30 due to the sidewall flex ...... its handling the sand ok .........

So the red and yellow and black all tee off into some nipples and they all seem secure. Any other ideas ?

The yellow wire in your pic ? It's red on mine and it's connected to the little nipple

But I have vacuum Both cad 4x4 works as well as cruise control .... What to look at next ?

thanks just dont want to damage my $1500 new tires and rims

Pic

Never took a truck this heavy before Most people are running 20psi all around I was going to do 25 front and 20 back. Here's a pic . Most people drive around town like this too and only re inflate when they leave after a week .., Thoughts ?

So what prevents it from sealing up in the heater core or radiator ?

Will let you know I live in RV all the time - only down for up to 8 hours at a time when I travel. Good info team MM

I guess thats the point. Obviously differs under so many variables noone here could ever really know. Only way to kinda guage it is the DP guage from the exhaust side. Since most people run a HX35 and stock bolts - this side of thing is pretty much same - not many people run a cam or twins (thats why I didnt pay much attention to catjflyn or myself results). The thread was actually started because a number of comments were made that if you tow and hit high PSI then you better have studs or risk a headgasket. This thread was an attempt to show 2 things (based on most common configurations outside of injectors/programmers). 1) Towing has little/no effect - as it doesn't increase cylinder pressure anymore than romping on it down the street - probably proven based on the results above already. 2) 30 PSI is pretty safe - street or otherwise on a hx35.

Yeah that's what I asked him to upload a PIC. No way Id be putting that glass stuff in my truck. How the heck do you get it out and hows that going to handle compression.

Reset Apps.Boost leak check.#6 manifold bolt check.Go from there.

xx2 Upload a pic tho - sometimes it not always the head gasket ......

Not sure how apps impacts egt .... Even if throttle position is off the turbo should still spool almost same ..... Shrug

Since it stops when warm you can try torquing down the head bolts more and monitor Any of the vendors here can help with studs and gasket. Generally should have head checked and decked if required. As well as valves and guides . You can also look at mighty diesel bolts as an intermediate solution to full headstuds.

Well its in and it all lit up like a XMAS tree By that I mean I now have a drivers side window again. Works perfect. So that was an interesting exercise in diagnosis - first time chasing an electrical issue and managed to get it Thx all.

Same for me just did a move to outer banks .... Hit 42 psi a couple times ... But generally between 15-25I have studs tho do kinda doesn't count ....