JOHNFAK

Funny - I just travelled part of this yesterday. 6 hours from Robinsville to Charleston through the mountains on 40 and 26. Hit 19.86 mpg at fill up this morning.

gotchya

How long for tho thats the question Dunno man - everyone says different things - and I know the CR are meant to handle slightly higher EGT (donbt know why) - but dont get why push the envelope and risk a $3k rebuild for 2 mins of downshifting or buying guages or modding it.

No idea - was in supermarket reading this by phone - *shrug* What egts did you see pulling in highest gears ?

Uuuytfyff

A hybrid is awesome for money. But with your fuel a 62 would be better.

That's cool ... Subscribed

Funny I have been thinking about this too. So hard to generate real spool and egt tests tho. Looks good man. A couple guys I know on cf who run them like them too

With 125 you'll probably want a 62 - any fueling from electronics ?

1/4" off where ?

AWESOME !!! Couldnt see the forest for the trees. ... or whatever Took out the head gasket and it sits right down onto the head - so its surely not blocked anymore and should tighten down and seal - will check this today as I have a 6 hour roadtrip tomorrow

Retorqued after HOT to 130 again - little movement.Hmm ok so I thought it was tight on clearance (valve cover ) but ok. Well took for a drive and oil leak.So ground down the front of the valve cover at front - and pretty sure thats fixed - but really cant grind much back in the back. Also hard to tell if its locking down in the back enough to create a seal with gasket.So - gonna tighten it down and drive and monitor for leaks - if it does - any suggestions ? I have another gasket here and was almost wondering about running two gaskets - one on top of the other. :shrug:thx

Cant remember the exact reason - something to do with the type of bearing (thrust ?). Basically ... In and out play on shaft is no good - rebuild Side play is ok - but if it touches the compressor housing - rebuild Oil leak either side of the central cartridge (intake or exhaust) - rebuild Only other thing to do is check for boost leaks http://www.dieselsite.com/ProductImages/bldet2.png

Oh yeah - I get you - ;) repeat for each bolt - not repeat at end - doh haha - thats why your spare car's a ferrari and mines a miada

Got this from Glacier Diesel arp install pdf. 12.Remove the stock head bolt. 13. Using finger pressure, thread an ARP stud into the block until the stud lightly bottoms out. Back the stud out ½ turn. Make a mark on the top of the stud to verify that the stud does not turn back in and bottom when installing the nut and washer 14.Using the supplied ARP Lube lightly coat the protruding threads of the new stud. 15. Lightly coat both sides of one washer and the contact face of one nut. 16. Install this washer and nut on the stud. Screw the nut down until contact is made, while verifying that the stud has not turned and bottomed out in the block. 17. Torque the new stud to 100 ft/lbs. 18.Go back and repeat steps 12 thru 17 until all 26 stock head bolts have been replaced with studs and torque to 100 ft/lbs 19.Now, following the torque sequence on the previous page begin bringing the studs up to final torque in incremental steps. For 425’s we typically come up to final torque in 10 ft/lb increments. For 625’s we use 15 ft/lb increments. ARP Recommended Final Torque Values P/N 247-4202 425’s Final Torque 125 ft/lbs P/N 247-4204 625’s Final Torque 150 ft/lbs

DONE !! All 26 in and torqued to 100 ft pounds. Going to back off 1x1 and ensure 1/4 turn off bottom and then torque to 115 and then straight to 130. After that drive for a bit and retorque to 130 ;) No clearance issues getting them in. Need to check valve cover but think that's for 12v.

Number 11 was too tight with heater core coolant hose so removed - should do this prior to valve cover off. HALFWAY - around 2.5 hours - lost 1 hour finding big breaker bar and socket --- Update to the previous post... 18 of 26 done. Toghest ones are going to be in the back. Got to stop for today for work. Start again in morning.

Thanks John. FYI some of the help/answers here came from John (AH64ID) via pm. Didn't want to clatter the thread - one key one was the rockers are just held each side by oil friction - I was confused at time of need to pull off the set screw for valve lash - no you don't !! I wasn't 100% sure on this as never paid close attn. so just pull them off and keep pushrods and cross heads on.

BIG breaker bar and stock bolt out New bolt in and torqued with lube finger tighten with hex then back off 1/4 turn and lube and torque

Valve cover off 10mm #1 cylinder rockers off 10mm and bagged by number

Some pics. Part # is arp 247-4202 You need a 12 point 14mm for stud nuts. 18mm 6 or 12 point for stock bolts. 10mm for rockers and 10mm for valve cover

Ok do was going to start this today but I see my torque wrench maxes out at 80 ft pounds. So off to shops to get a larger one and do some chores. So pics will start to upload tomorrow. As for turbo its a non vgt off a 3rd gen. It's a very nice turbo and much better than a hx/hy35 .... Quick spoolup and more air. It pulls nice . My workshop --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?n5ysop

X2 - best mod for the price I like bein able to remove it fully also - sometimes its a little bit of pain to get it screwed back in at the back of the firewall - but I like being able to see how uch oil comes out of the breather and how much blowby also.

They are different, but if you have to upgarde - go to a super b or a 60mm compressor.