JOHNFAK

thx dually So you didnt tap any new threads - just used to clean existing ...... remeber size of tap you used in length ? Any problems with back studs/bolts with room ?

Oh wow - ha ha that's funny and sad together

Thumbsup ;)

Strange all the juices are underhood ... Not heard of issue wonder if ez only ??

Who has done this on 24v ? I understand torque sequence and specs ... Just curious onAny issues with back studs and cowel etc ?Do you need to tap the existing hole ? If so details ? Ive heard yes and no. Any other tips outside of sequence or specs ... Thx

Put it back on by hand too ?

If you pull the wastegate off the hy35 and sell on ebay - a lot of the ricer cars will take it due to the 9cm housing and quicker spool - and ability to handle more HP than their stock turbos .... they are semi popular there to get some $$ funds back.

yup your good to go

Looks right - seeing the front would make it easier.The HX35 will have a hose from the wastegate to an elbow tapped directly into the compressor housing.The hy35 will have a straight feed (now elbow) built in.Both flanges interchangeable - so both work fine - you might notice a bit better with HX35 - but there's not a big difference.

:thumbup2::thumbup2:

Well it also gives me someone to blame But more besides - just couldnt thinkn of anything more clever than that to say - and as I am a post ***** - thats what I had

NO because Mike SAID SO !!!done.

Thats crazy man - 3 better options. 1) - put the $400 to a s300g - you could get one new for $900 2) - Buy a HX35w off cummins forum for $150-$250 depending on condition - if its abused just use the EH and wastegate. Chuck the rest out.If its not abused - swap it straight in and keep yours as backup. 3) If just the actuator http://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-powerturboboostbuilderwastegate.aspx If you HAVE to have new housing and new actuator then 3) http://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-powerturboboostbuilderwastegate.aspx and 4) http://www.pdrdiesel.com/products/PDR_Dodge_Cummins_12_sq_cm_Housing_nonwastegated-537-27.html Id go with 1 or 2:thumbup2:

What thermostat temps can you get ? I gave 5 deg lower than stock can you go higher than stock ?

Can u get me a price ? Hahahahahaha

subscribed and waiting --- Update to the previous post... subscribed

Its in the console under the odometer - and yes I think it does come on with key on - if you need a video to be sure happy to take on and upload it for you. No idea on schematics for wiring. RAR files "should" open with winzip which most windows build shave these days. Been a while since I dealt with one - its just an archive you extract like a ZIP file and then get the archived file out (could be anything).

I got a quote from this guy and it was VERY reasonable. Good to talk to as well. I never pulled the trigger as I was still deciding what to do - but that was a good price Requires a core - but no biggie

Thats actually really good to know - hope I never need to use it - but very interesting. Wondering what shop labor would be typical if you supply all the hard parts. For that matter how hard is it to do yourself ?

Hey man - yeah sorry - that ^^^ was for jshmohr I think for you you should clean out your trans pan, disconnect you GP solenoid etc and clean and reconnect. And see where you are at. Did you confirm if you have a modified VB at all ? http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-repairs-replacements/381985-47re-governor-solenoid-sensor-swap-pics.html

AH64ID .. No way to adapt it ? cummins .... just measure everything as best you can ......I was out 0.5 inch short after I got my hx40 downpipe in .... and do you think that thing comes back out easy - hello ....... missing skin and blood later I managed to join another bit of pipe to it --- and then I was 0.5 to long ..... repeat again :banghead:

do what clutch says above 1st - its free look into the foil as per this doc - section http://www.turbodieselregister.com/articlelive/categories/Technical-Information/?Page=3 Then clean fluid for tranny and clean the solenoid etc this is all FREE after that probably try the solenoid upgrade

My surging was like thisDriving along without OD on ..... rpm would jump 200rpm ...... just a few seconds .....APPS reset with battery disconnect fixed for meCant remember if it happened in OD as well - pretty sure it did

you've probably already seen it - but this has good info http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm The cracks I have seen on threads often seem to be around the heat exchanger area. Wouldn't think it would be that easy to see unless it was very big and you had a lot of coolant comming out.

Hey mike heard you say this before - makes sense - how to check tho ? thx