JOHNFAK

This "seems" the same for me too. I try to stay in OD as much as possible. When with OD off - around 1900-2100 rpm I get worse mileage. This is the same DD on the lieometer. I don't stay out of OD long enough DD to know for sure tho. Boost seems similar also - just based on observations. I only ever drop out of OD for a BIG hill - or when I feel/hear the engine start to really lug - maybe 1300 rpm.

So what gear is it starting in ??? Limp mode ? Have you scanned for codes and tried the key trick for codes ?? I would check the fuses , disconnect battery and reset the APPS (30 mins) ........ and then play around with the TPS

Hey.There is a good thread on here somewhere on methanol/propane. Ill see if I can dig it up.Short answer is propane will give you much more MPG. But you have to add in the $$ for the kit and source.Methanol/h20 runs on boost for stage I,II kits but for higher end kits it runs on a 2D mapping between EGT and boost. This is to overcome high EGTS under low boost and a smoother injection rate. Prevents quenching.Methanol is also a fuel source. Just not as costly. As your injecting more liquid/fuel into the compression - you can pickup a small 5-10% mpg increase. More likely on a higher end kit - I recommend Labonte But you have to factor in a $500-$700 kit - plus the cost of methanol and do the calcs if you think its worth it.So bottom line - just from my own experience (2 kits) - I would only use it for EGT reduction and power increase when you go with a higher methanol (50%) mix etc.

he bracket for the oem lift pump ? Yeah i can see that - but its just a bracket right ?? What about this other gasket

Hey HEavyThere's a different gasket there ?? :shrug:hmm .... so hard to see back there .....I can see most of the oil is right at the back of the block - but yeah the OEM lift pump is quite close to the oil alsoWhats that gasket for ? And why does it leak oil if its related to lift pump ? Might have to get the starter motor off after all ...... can't think of a better way to get a look at it without taking everything off the top

Perth Western Australia But living in this good ol country with my wife of 9 years (a MO gal). Trying to travel and see some country - so currently in SF california Heres some pics from websites that show some main things where I live(d). http://www.perthsummer.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/perth-wa.jpg (city) http://www.coast-accommodation.com.au/images/regions-photos/wa-rottnest-island.jpg (local island ~ 20 mins boat off city) http://images.smh.com.au/2010/08/04/1745073/Holden_ute_SS-V_m_m.jpg (common aussie sports truck called a 'ute')

Have a good one Fellas !!!!

Read the VP44 removal.Dont quite get the puller part.So its basically TDC on the crankcase (behind breather) ..... and then you pulling something off the shaft of the vp44 ?? After that you can unbolt the vp44 from the block ?

NoIts an auto - but with an 3x disk TC full of fluid also Thats almost as heavy as transfer case itself It comes down pretty easy once its balanced on jack with straps as your not trying to align.It was just going back in that sucked as the weight makes it real hard to align 1/4" here and 1/4" there ..... was amazing the difference.Just saves having to do it twice - but main point was not trying to put it all back on in one piece :thumb1:On a side note - it was amazing to see how easy the shop got it all in and out not working on the ground and with proper tranny jack. Working at head height and having all that room makes such a difference it was crazy.I dropped my tranny with a mate to do the VB and teh 3x disk. Working on ground like you. I had it rebuilt by a DTT tranny guy. Night and day.

oktook off fuel canister filter. Still a bit hard to see - but it does look like tappet cover at back 1/3rd of block.so some more q's* Guessing it has to be that or the head - but guessing head would more likely leak coolant than oil * Not sure how bad the leak is. If I drive all day it make leak like a couple drops onto floor - but some more gets on tranny etc so hard to be specific - but doesn't seem big as I don't ever need to top up oil between oil changes. How serious is it ? Guessing its fine as long as leak doesn't get bigger ?? Main reason is I would want at least 2-3 days to do on my own ...... and not sure I could do it here ........ so could be 6 months before I could get to it. * Never done the vp44. I know I need to get a puller - but is it hard and what about keyway alignment after its already been installed - just keep it 'taped' ?? thx

ISx/MikeSuggestion Make this one a sticky please - and maybe also on the website (main) as a link under general cumminsI keep comming back to this for understanding the different components ....good stuff

man glad your ok I almost lost my dads expensive ATV into a 12ft pond as I though the brake would hold the small hill. Lucky a firepit was in the way ........ hear a large bang - and see an ATV knocked through a bench into the pit around 20 ft from the edge. Lucky for me only a small dent in frame so I lived. And lucky the neices/nephews weren't around at the time of the fire was going.

Best advice I can give on experience is Take off as 1 component (tranny/transfercase)Put back on seperately ..... tranny then TC.Had a hell of a time with 2 of us trying to align it all due to the weight. 2 hours of frustration and swearing.Took of TC and got her up aligned and bolted in in under 10 mins after TC was off.Only other hard part was getting the tranny out from under the truck - had to jack side of truck up heavily on wood supports.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2420-My-Tranny-Cooler-Setup http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-15960/ there are bigger or smaller ones based on CFM

Hey JLDunno about the deep pans ........ but I reckon the Auxilliay cooler I installed on mine (as per Jim {SASQUACH} ) is about the best mod I have for $200-$300.Never have to worry about tranny temps - even when not locked up

I just added before I added R134a. eg Vaccum down Hold Vacuum for 30-60 mins Add PAG oil - eg http://www.amazon.com/R134a-PAG-OIL-CHARGE-OZ/dp/B0002JN2ZO Add R134a as per the sticker and mikes instructions on AC recharge.

Yeah - and one other thing - resale would be better with a Goerand under her than an AAMCO Something I didn't think of when I got my revmax stuff

Sorry Meant for $3700 are you also getting billet input/intermediate/output etc ?? Upgraded VB ?? For what its worth I agree with MnTom. I have been all over the tranny stuff with my truck ........ and obviously every1 got opinions - but here's why (as I understand it). Stock tranny rebuilt kit is around $500-600. To drop tranny and rebuild and put back in is 8 hours (lets say $90 p/h) . So that around $1300 with new clutches, new billet apply lever and billet bands. The rest of the cost for a good tranny comes in Upgraded VB with solenoids, + line pressure though custom port machining , and heavier valve springs and check valves + $400 Tripple Disk TC for clutches to hold increased HP - $1200 Billet shafts - $900 for input (you can add billet intermoutput and flex plate for boosted laucnhes/sled pulling etc) Anyway - so basically around $1300(refresh/upgrade of core) + $400 (matching VB) + $1200 (3x disk TC) + $(900 input billet) This gets you to $3800 (similar to your qoute) - so I would assume this is what your getting. Given its AAMCO though I doubt it - but you never know - they are all different Anyway - there's some info on a tranny that should hold 600 HP and come with 2-3 year warranty (100000 miles). I would check with AMMCO on what your getting exactly - itemized. I would definately also speak with DTT or Dave Goerand on their costs. They are a little higher - but their service/warrant is 2nd to none. Either way - hope the info helps - or you already knew it all - like I said everyone has an opinion - but thats how I look a the costs in order to determine I have a well built tranny and why it cost what it cost based on what I got

yeah thats what I thought say to my wife too. Some RV parks won't even let you wash your car/rv. Last place was ok .... but not here ........... oh well ........ just need to get organised and find a car park. Problem is I don't want to be too far away from a parts store in case I need something .... have to make sure it is the tappet - so gonne have to get the fuel canister out the way nad clean stuff off and see where were at thx again

Hey gass Curious what else your getting Billet input, output, intermediate and flex plate ??? New Torque Convertor and matching valve body ? How much HP ?

haha - sure i could - with enough beer - she might not idle the same after tho !!!

Yeah ......... :banghead: Gonna have to clean this up and see how bad the leak is ........ Almost certain to be the tappet cover by looks of that pick I don't get any drips of oil on the floor ....... but I do get oil all over transfer case as I drive (not a LARGE amount - but enough over time) Again with the problem of nowhere to work on it .......... as I would be allocating myself 2 days for this (even tho isx would have it done in 3 hours). thx guys

Yeah I remember that pic now ...... crap does the tappet cover run all th way to the rear of the block ?? I lost sight of it and thought it stopped ....... hmmmm Might do what dripley said and take off the fuel canister and see if I can see it better (and clean it off) -> and then watch for oil leaks. Its not bad - but I'd prefer to get it fixed ................ thx guys

Have a oil leak - appears to be becomming from the rear of block on drivers side behind the starter motor.WHta back there - its actually hard to see ?? I don't think its a head gasket (think its lower) ........ and don';t think its draining from the tappet cover as its too far forwad (and actually looks newish) ..... freeze plug or something ?? How hard to take off the starter motor ............. ? So I can get a better look at it Just disconnect batteries and 4 or 5 bolts etc ?? thx

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/general-diesel-discussion/13608-47re-line-pressures-governor-voltage-tricks.html Yeah hard one. I think the easiest way to diagnose would be checking the line pressures out of the side ports - but you would need the manual on what they should be and tolerances should be. You can pick up a shift kit for $100 and governor for another ~$100 - which means if you have the time you can do all that for around $200-$250. Else buy an uvpgraded valve body for $400. Its a good thing to do on these trannies anyway. how many miles on the existing tranny ?