JOHNFAK

Any problems with 'REVERSE" ?? The bands are engaged in 1-2 (front) and 2-3(rear) shifts I think. But I don't think that would prevent you from going to 3rd - it would just slip or be late shift.Does it shift normally from 1-2 when driving ?? Its just third ? Do you have a shift kit or updated VB on the truck - how many miles on tranny.I *think* if you have a weak TC you will feel it most taking off ....... and especially under acceleration where it will slip the lockup clutches more easy.So thinking out loud 3rd gear would more related to the TPS and the line pressures - when they are reached the setting for shift they would apply the bands to shift the clutches and shift 2-3. Thats the image in my head ...... curious if you have a shift kit and modified VB

Yeah I think this is going to be my best quick option without taking it off. I might try and do it first - 'wet' -> but don't think it will work. This is exactly what I thougth was happenign so I spent an hour cleaning the TC up last week. No other ATF apart from the bolt. No leaks from above or anywhere else on TC. I cleaned around teh bolt thinking it was comming from the gasket and if you sit there long enough you can see it come out around the head of the bolt. will recheck tho - to be sure

Heydumb question - but curious on ideasOne of the bolts at back of my transfercase is leaking more ATF. Its one of the black hex bolts that holds the tail housing (where rear drive shaft goes into) to the main part of the TC. So what are easy fixes options ?? Was thinking1) New bolt ....... *shrug* might provide a better seal2) Some gasket maker ?? But thinking most will come out when I torque it down ? 3) Some thread tape ?? Seems to be a good seal elsewhere with no leaks .......

hey manashameably no .........new job, moved to CA, and havn't found somewhere to work on my truck as RV park won't let me (most don't allow - some are ok if your nice to the owners/managers)lots of excuses - but will get it done I do like my hx40 tho - but think the quicker spoolup will help in start stop traffic

Yeah I gotta get my trout fishing skills up to 'par' before I come land some idaho lunkers - but hopefully a beer sometime over the next year Off to alaska in Aug

http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/TPS_adjust.htm

eeeek <=== james after a near 'nad' death excursion ..........

Yeah should have said I added a small can of pag oil right before I added freon with dye ;)

I would consider it if your happy that if it doesn't work you may have to replace a bunch of stuff. Like $1000 in my case. Cheaper if u do it yourself.Problem is it plugs up holes (I assume as its a leak fix) ....... so if your evaporator is good and your dryer - you might stuff them up - not high ticket items - but means more than just an ac compressor. Also would worry me with the orifice tube.So basically I did consider it a bunch of times - but as I had $1k in new parts and labor behind dash (and still a leak) I really resisted that temptation on advice from here and after 2 months of back and forth scratching my head - looks like it was my compressor leaking - so $78 from a wreck shipped and she is still cold after 2+ weeks ..... cross fingers.

Just moved to area from PHX. Looking for fellow Cummins drivers and possibly a place/ideas to work on truck - as I can't work on my truck at RV site (rules).

What mike said But if you need to u can gently clean the compressor housing with a rag .... I fins those magic white pads the wife had useful ... Wouldn't bother with spray

Mike - curious with a 145*F I saw no difference in MPG in phx (ambient around 80). IS it worth trying a lower value - or for hotter climates just leaving it alone - what you think. Curious when you are in 5th on highway - assume you are getting ~22MPG - what RPM are you at at what speed ?? Like I know I will never get as a good as a manual around town due to slippage in TC ...... but I only get 20mpg on highway but i ALWAYS drive around 60-65mph in OD ...... sitting around 1800rpm. [3.54 gears]. Was wondering if I dropped to 55 what I would expect ........ problem is I reckon my RPM will be closer to 1500 and I will LUG it a little up smaller hills. Thoughts ?

How do you 'tap' a relay.

So saying clean down with water and WD40 as a coating every couple months on the undercarriage and axles should be ok ? --- Update to the previous post... Good price on gallon wd40 - just use a hand spray bottle i guess Trying to find a good deal ob pb blaster ....... guess that would work too http://www.lowes.com/pd_97770-357-10010_4294859135+4294926894+4294954924+5003697_4294937087_?Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&masthead=true&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=[com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%40b521c%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%40ea521c%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%406451521c%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%406430521c%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%4042e3921c]&identifier=15+25&langId=-1&Ntt=&URL=TopCategoriesDisplayView&N=4294859135+4294926894+4294954924+5003697&firstReferURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lowes.com%2Fpd_97770-357-10010_4294859135%2B4294926894%2B4294954924%2B5003697_4294937087_%3FcatalogId%3D10051%26productId%3D1115213%26Ne%3D4294937087%26identifier%3D15%2B25%26N%3D4294859135%2B4294926894%2B4294954924%2B5003697%26langId%3D-1%26Ns%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr%257C0%257C%257Cp_product_quantity_sold%257C1%26storeId%3D10151%26searchQueryType%3D1&zipCode=94044&Ne=4294937087&y=18&x=38&isQvSearch=&mastheadURL=TopCategoriesDisplayView&findStoreErrorURL=StoreLocatorDisplayView&productId=1115213&searchQueryType=1&catalogId=10051&NttParam=&storeId=10151&qvRedirect=

Living by the sea for 9months Apart from regualr washing - anything else I can do to help protect against salt. A rust inhibitor of some sort ?? http://www.fluid-film.com/applications/automotive/index.html http://www.amazon.com/1-Quart-Rust-Bullet-Automotive/dp/B0002P3IJ8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1305426250&sr=8-10 Or just a waste of $$

subscribed Want to know when I leave my truck for 5 weeks a good way to deter/prevent theft. Was thinking there might be away to trigger the fuel shutoff solenoid ?? Not sure what else would be easy.

My boss bought one ...... Yeah that's a lot of power for a v6. His numbers were around 14 city and 18 hwy..... Nothing special and below sticker spec ..... But he loves it anyway ......

Damn ;) Got a good paint job ? Would be good to finish get off if not ;) that thing should humm

Did it stall before the new injectors ? Jim and mine both did after injectors From memory.... But funny thing is I put mine to stock again and no diff .... Weird .... Another funny thing is if I put it into gear immediately after starting .... No stall ..... Let it idle for a few mins in cold weather ... Stalls every time

Sure - but people need options sometimes - especially if they have other priorities. If mike was selling his after a wreck for $400 with less than 20k miles on it I would consider it if I didn't have the extra $500+ and snow plowing season was 4 weeks away. There are plenty of guys on CF/here and other forums that if you get to know them you can work out a good deal and get some parts if thats what you require. For a VP44 I think most of us would wait and drive the bad one until with over 10PSI + until we could get a new one - even just for longevity ......... remember MOST places wont warranty a new vp44 anyways - maybe 6 mths - 1 year ...... so really just depends on DieselD's situation

Got mine on eBay ... Was perfect ....

I *think* you can run the vp44 some time without too much issue ..... As long as you have line pressure .... It will just retard the timing meaning lower mpg and eventually harder starting ...... You might get lucky with a vp44 of a wrecked truck ... Anywhere from 400-800 .... Depends what info you can get on truck history See if mike or someone says different .... But run some two stroke in it .. And keep an eye on it whilst you save funds Sorry man sucks

Yeah I wish I did just some basic cummins searching and spoke with some people before I bought my truck. Nothing like driving 400 miles with a truck that jerks above 65 to find out the vp44 and fuel pump and lines are shot. Still remember that first phone call to mike .... "what's a vp44 and why did it broke?" ... At least 2 years later and a help from a bunch if guys here I feel like I know enough not to get raped at the stealer .... In fact .... I only send my truck to mechanics from personal reference and only when I can't do the work myself .... Like caj said " don't let anyone touch my truck even for oil unless I am there watching " .... Sucks for your mate though ....

Hey Depends again on how much HP you want. Stock are pretty good. RV275 from Jacob Kidd are good for extraMPG and a 'little' HP. CPP again has great injectors above the RV275. There's other good injectors - but they are two good places to start - especially for the prices and customer service. Turbos - depends on where you end up HP wise. I'd seriously look at Jacobs new "screaming eagle" turbos with a 12cm housing. Or jamie at CPP can get you a good deal on the phatshaft 62. If you want to spend a "little" less money - a S300 based turbo like a Super B would be good ..... as I believe they are upgradeable in the future. Personally for bang for the buck and not going crazy on $$ I would do something like QUAD V2 +100 sticks Phatshaft/Screaming Eagle On a package deal I reckon you are looking at ~ $2400 give or take - but all NEW 2nd hand you could do something 'simialr' for around $1650 .... but no warranties

Heck yeah !! Which kit you using ? Are you going to measure line pressure via the test port and do you know what the best pressure is at different gears etc ...... ? how about extra clutch in gear packs ? Solenoid upgrade or standard ? Think all the rebuild kits come with new apply leaver and band strut..... would be a GREAT article if you can get heaps of pics and comments