JOHNFAK

X2 ^^^^^The best part is getting help and doing your own work or doing it with someone and* learning stuff - always fun - I now know what a tappet cover is hahaha * not feeling like your being bent over by the shops. You generally can now do it yourself.. Or with help .... Or at least know whats involved when they want to charge you 800 for a oem lift pump hey russ ;) Thx guys - good post dobie ;)

You'll get a resounding "no" here ;) no additives to your shiny $30k engine ;) Sometimes for the real cold climates and winter fuel .... But not as a maintenance thing ;)

See if ah64id will sell you his he351cw turbo ..... Great upgrade for the he341 and only cost you a couple hundred once you sell yours .... Don't know if he still has it ;)

Lmao - this was actually funny to read late at night ;)

Hey RussHabve you tried posting in CF in the chapter section to see if someone will help you install your AD for a carton or 2 of beer ?? If you explain your situation - I am sure someone would be happy to come help ....... just a thoughtI know you need your truck back tho ........ some time might be a factor .......don't let the stealers touch it - I'd rather give my money to a local guy who has a good rep You could ask that in CF chapter for your area also good luck man:thumb1:

ok got ya man this sucks ........... where is it leaking ....:banghead:

Russ - build yourself one of these and have your guy install it

try this is if it helps

doh so you mean even with engine and AC not running - as it balances and holds say 70psi each side ..... still enough pressure to find leak ......

Thanks guys will post shortly .... --- Update to the previous post... ok - refilled and it settled around 30 psi and 190 psi. off to pick up some more r134a Curious about the SOAP idea - I added some soap bubbles to each Low valve High Valve port - to see if leaking - but problem is with engine vibrating and FAN ..... it doesn't last long and hard to determine if there's a leak or bubbles just getting destroyed by vibration/air from fan ??

Good to hear :thumbsup: ....

Get gauges and a smarty for an 05 still under the 1k you mentioned and plenty power ;)

Easiest way to tell for mods with vb is to take it out and check springs as compared to oem .... and clearances in the holes on pressure plates .....I would just buy a dtt or goerand Valve body

What's the minimum pressure required to get it to crank ? I would have thought if you had fuel prime at the injectors it would be enough to crank and start ..., just wouldn't want to drive it ...,, but I don't really know *shrug* ......

thanksWe should add some of that stuff to the AC link mike wrote when he did his system.Like safe pressures (low and high). And SOAP trick and fan etc and as long as you fill via low side the pressures should be ok. Whatever wording is best Definately wanna get this one to bed. So I will get her loaded again and clean around all suspect places .... then I am going to try and drive and keep the AC running full tilt for 2 hours - instead of the 10 minutes to/from work ..... see where I am at with UV first followed by SOAP/water keep ya posted ....

Cool guys ...... I really want to get this fixed ....... mainly cause I live in PHX and also cause I already paid $1100 and still have warm air - so don't want to take to anyone now. thx for help

coolGoing to try and load a bit more - and run the AC as long as I can ....... and use SOAP as well as blacklight and see what I can find. Going to clean all connectors down and compressor to make sure any UV light is new.I question tho - you say to bring the LOW side up to 40 ......... but its already hitting 40 (15-40) ..... as its cycles ??? Yeah - definately a little overcautious - don't wanna see a BOOM

So even though it was hitting 40psi ??? So ok to add a can - worried if I add a can going to start hitting like 60+psi etc .......

Video showing. Haven't added another can yet - wondering if I should vacuum it all back down .......... :banghead:

If it leaked down - thats a fair amount in 7 odd days. Wonder why I can't find with blacklight ?? I have a new evaporator/heater core installed. And can't see any UV from that drainage port either ?? I'll add another can ....... what else would help detect the leak ?? http://www.harborfreight.com/electronic-freon-and-halogen-leak-detector-92514.html

Low humidity (AZ). Like 30% Originally I vacummed and then filled to 30 (low) and (250) high and stopped. Had cold air for about 5 days - and couldn't see any leaks via blacklight. Then didn't use A/C for a few days and changed my turbo - cold air stopped. Figured I bumped a line or something. So chucked the gauges on (no engine start) ... and it was like 10 lowside and can't remember high - but under 100. So I added 1 can ...... and now it cycles between 20-40 with compressor always cycling ...... and high around 120. So I want to add one more can ....... in order to then run the AC hard to see if I can find my leak ????

about 40PSI low side .... and 120 high side ?? I think I have a leak - but have blacklighted EVERYTHING .......... so I just want to fill it up again to do more blacklight detection tomight (run AC for longer). So thats ok ? I'll just keep the engine and AC running ..... and keep filling it until its 40 PSI on low side minimum ..... (its around 90 here today) If I can't find with blacklight - then guessing find someone with a "sniffer" ?? Can't think of anythign else

OMG

dabumpskie

PicsShows 70 with engine offAnd high of 20-40 when cycling ac in idle