Everything posted by JOHNFAK
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First major overhaul
So 500k on the new engine that you rebuilt ?? Thats pretty sweet for $3k !!!! Nice stuff
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Head Bolts "N" Studs
Good Stuff !! Data points and guys actually running the stuff we are wondering about are what I/we live for !!
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First major overhaul
So what did that cost ??? And any issues after rebuild ??
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First major overhaul
Depending on funds and whta you want to do ?? But sounds like you want something with a little more GRRR but not too much Think about Gauges QUAD/EDGE ......... smarty ok - especially features ....... but the other two give more power and have guages built in for same price AIRDOG RV275 -> +75 injectors That phatshaft is too big for your fuel. Save yourself some money and buy a 60/60/9 he351cw off a 04.5 - 06 (I think) dodge ram ..... and fit to your truck - its a NICE turbo - cost $300 used else if you want new - get a SUPER B ..... 57/65/12 .... can be upgarded later on compressor side if you go bigger injectors to a 62/65/12
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First major overhaul
Yeah there is a link on here from STODG73 or someone on doing that More likley to have to replace tranny, AC , lift pump, injectors, accessories, carpet, mats , lights and paint before that ISB starts to crack, fault ;) Then when you go to get it overhauled .... you can get the block and head reworked and polished,ported and strengthened and take her to 600HP !!
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MPG fooler - Design phase
hahahaha - no kidding --- Update to the previous post... Don't think the 3x will help you much unless your slipping a lot now. Its a fluid coupling until lockup ..... so I think only adjusting the stator etc to a different stall will help slightly. Honestly ..... I'd try switchng out your injectors from 150 to stock .......... just to try ....... I would think it would be hard to control that. Beyond that ..... smaller tires maybe ..... and you could try a different programmer ....... just for comparison - make sure your getting all the timing you want/need etc But seriously ...... I'd look at the injectors as #1.
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Tranny Leak
Wally world sells ATF4+ for like $3.96 a quart. Not much more that Merc III.Good luck on the return trip .........
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Head Bolts "N" Studs
Never looked into A1. Will do. W+F ...... spoken with probably 20 guys (some vendors, some pullers , some general guys) and a lot saying not really need to upgrade OEM until over 50 psi consistently ....... and up to that point you can retorque the STOCK bolts to 135 and will hold ....... Then there are these bolts ..... that seem to give you the extra 10psi to around 60 ...... thoughts ?? p.s - also spoke with a couple methanol guys (pullers and vendors) and their thoughts was as long as you keep methanol to a less than 50% mix ...... then cylinder pressures are generally not a concern ........ They said it is possible to "hyroplane" on a cool engine ..... and could lift head ...... but that would take more of a malfunction of the pump/contoller to push that much water/methanol in ..... just what I am hearing from guys and vendors who make this stuff or use it pretty regular. Been looking into it over last 2 weeks.
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Head Bolts "N" Studs
I hear ya. It's real hard to gauge how far hg will be pushed. Some guys in that thread are running stock with twins and gated at 50 ... 3 years running ... On other hand sure guys have blown much lower ... Arp gets the thumbsup as been around and tested ... But these guys pushing hi psi on these bolts torqued to 135 .... And pulling ....so really kinda tested also ..... Finally, even arp doesn't guarentee no issues. And if you blow hg with them on ?? Then what ?? Redeck the head ... New gasket and new studs ... Maybe 625 ??? Gets real expensive for no guarantee ... Anyway .. Just posted as I think this is interesting given guys that push high psi are running these in the field .... And they seem to be holding ..,,
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Head Bolts "N" Studs
That's the point. These bolts are supposedly able to be torques to 135 .... And these pullers are saying they have guys on stock gasket and with these regularly pushing 50-60 psi ..... The suggestion is they are almost as good as arp 425 ... And for most modded trucks are enough .... Yet only $100 ..., Everything i read so far sounds pretty good for the money ..... Spoken with 2 guys offline who pull sleds using these .....
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Head Bolts "N" Studs
Starting this for a discussion as well as for FYI for those interested Discussion thead here http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/344262-mighty-diesel-cylender-head-bolts-anything-good-bout-em.html product here http://www.mightydiesel.com/store/index.php?cPath=108 Speculation here Tony from Mighty Diesel is using their Houdini headbolts, (12mm) running about 60PSI boost.. a small S400 running about 575HP on a marine headgasket (.020" over stock thk) and those bolts.. no O-rings. And he's been pulling in the 2.6 class like that for a while. He claimed a customer has run their bolts at 100PSI boost (70PSI regularly) and they hold his HG fine. If I'm not mistaken, the guy running 100PSI boost on these bolts was running a marine HG, no O-rings. I have my doubts and concerns about them but I have been pushing 60PSI (or a hair more?) so I'm also worried about the stock bolts holding up.
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Transmission Idea's
Dunno. I like my auto ...... but I never have had a 5 speed diesel. My mate has one - its ok -seems a little harsh on gear shifts to me ....... just a personal thing ...... am sure I would like the 5 speed if thats what I had. If its not going to cost you that much difference in doing the swap - maybe do that - sounds like what you wanted in the first place. Plus probably more reliable at that HP ... and less electronics/pressure issues etc
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Transmission Idea's
don;t need $5k for an auto to handle 500 HP .............so --- Update to the previous post... From memory this is rated close to 500 HP You can pick it up $200 cheaper on Ebay too ..... So $2500. http://www.per4manceinnovations.com/transmissions.php?id=2
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Transmission Idea's
Depends what you want it for and if you mind changing gears. You can get a good built auto tranny to handle 500 HP for around $3k. Install would be then $500 (ish) or do yourself. The 5 speed clutch can be upgraded to handle like 550 HP for like $900-$1000 eg http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/south-bend/13125-FEK.htm - 10% So you could have a built auto for $3500. or Have a built 5 speed for $2400 with your mate swap if the $1400 covers the NV4500 as well as labor - wasn't sure if you meant you had one around ....... else tack on another $1300 ?? So $2400-$3700 depending. The 5 speed will get you better mileage in city (less slip). The auto will get you better track times if that interests you. Probably less issues with the 5 speed - but more time changing gears in city. You would have a 47re tranny core at the end to sell ........ maybe $300-$500 depending on condition
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Injectors 75 hp
Plus not all injectors same .... Cpp and ddp meant to be a lot cleaner than jammers as an example with guys getting a cleaner burn on bigger injectors .... So they say .... Been pretty happy with the +75 I have on now ... No drop in fuel mileage when I keep my foot out of it .... And definitely more power ....
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Question
Didn't know that. How are they different ?
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Fuse Block Fuse Panel
Currently have * Tranny AUX Cooler * QUAD * Methanol Pump * Background Lights/Power to Gauges ** Maybe a 5th --- Update to the previous post... Pretty much exactly. So do you just take a thick gauge wire (12 ?) from battery to the panel ?? And that powers all 6 And then just 1 common ground also ?? And then just take your accessories of each terminal ??? If so ...... how to size appropriately ......... and how do you have some "switched" "continuous" "headlight dimmer powered" etc
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Fuse Block Fuse Panel
Currently have about 5 accessories tapped into fuses on side panel drivers side. Worried about overloading circuit and becoming a bit messy Assuming I can clean this up using a fuse panel like this for accessories ? But how best to RIG up to ensure on own circuit and not overloading another circuit (eg power ) http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-15600-06-20-Quick-Connect/dp/B001BXKLNQ/ref=pd_ts_auto_13?ie=UTF8&s=automotive http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d136.html Any better ones that handle more AMPS and how do you supply power/ground to man circuit - direct from battery using a higher gauge wire ? thx
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Inline 12v reader/display
I like it. Hardest part is controlling quench and still getting EGT reduction. Hence the 12v display. Personally I'd stay the hell away from devilsown. Snows a bit more expensive but the customer service is workable. If I was doing it again I would go http://www.labontemotorsports.com/store/ccp0-prodshow/DIS_S4.html That looks like it gives you the control this system requires. The price will go with t. Yeah with 150 sticks ..... and tapped I could see that being an issue. There was a guy selling a 64/75/14 on CF for like $1100. Not sure what you could get for the hybrid. Did also see a s300 for $800 secondhand on there - thats a 57/65/12 but can be built up later to a 62/65/12 for $400. At the moment I am seriously looking at a holset hybrid build. Basically $550-650 to convert your HX35 from HTT turbo to a 60/60/12. Not sure on studs. Its a concern ....... some guys say no studs till over 500HP (even with methanol) and some guys say running over 55PSI often then start to think about it. [some guys say less obviously also]. I am closer to 400HP and 38PSI ........ so not planning at this stage ............even with a new turbo I will wastegate at around 40psi
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Inline 12v reader/display
yeah probably should of said .......... my methanol injection is based on boost ...... it provides a Voltage Resistance between 0-12v ..... with 12V being full spray. So this would show me both a) When its ON b) How much I am spraying based on my voltage signal Help in tuning the spray conditions/nozzles sizes Boost gauge alone is not enough - as the dial in gauges on the VC100 controller are not accurate enough to be sure whats happening at the pump end ...... I think the Stage 3 kit solves this with 2x spray maps ........ and a digital contoller ..... but its a $500 upgrade
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Inline 12v reader/display
Looking for something I can mount in the cab that will read the signal (0-12v) and display. Something very cheap and small to hook directly into a variable voltage feed ???? --- Update to the previous post... kinda like this ...... in functionality But digital and smaller http://www.hobbytron.com/CK005.html --- Update to the previous post... -----update------- hmmm this may work .... http://www.amazon.com/XScorpion-Red-Digital-Voltage-Monitor/dp/B001RS1ERC/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_3
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Yeah yeah yeah !!!
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/2395624/jetlev_water_propeled_jet_pack/
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Hello everyone
now only if you could do that to our trucks ......... WELCOME !!!
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I have K&N
Yeah thats what I mean. If you have something like this ... http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/kn/FIPK.htm it retails for around $200 You could probably sell it used for $90 + shipping (cleaned up). Then you can get yourself a BHAF + outerwears (NEW) for around same price. I wouldn't expect too much gain ....... I didn't notice any power difference, but the turbo spooled a little better perhaps. Maintenance would be key reason. If you want to hear your turbo more - take out the silencer ring.
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Tires
Can you tow heavy with the 255/85/16 ..... or the 235/85/16 for that matter ?