JOHNFAK

Hows that truck pulling on the sand ??? HAHAHAH common fella - lets roll her over:drool:

I remember you saying that (the dye) ..... so I rubbed some of mine on my battery cover ..... and its still visable after 2 weeks ...... must have the "aussie strength" - hahaha *joke* Yeah thanks for the pics - I remember that now from the 1st time - So the blower is actually closest to the evaporator - I would have thought it blows directly over the heater core - but guess its more elaborate than that. So is it holding a vacuum now all said and done ??

So was the evaporator toast ??? Is there a pic or schematic that shows the evaporator and heater core together ? thx for the video

CoolHoe that's not what's wrong with mine as it was Midas in Missouri that did the work Good to see video especially which bolts and clips to get it out ;)

Ok thx guys - hoping it's this line ... Have plugged it with gasket maker and going to see if the air holds .... If it does then I will have more confidence this is the issue rather than chasing my tail again ... Thx

CoolI just put the gasket seal in last night and gonna monitor it and see if I pickup any more dye and if ac lasts a bit more. I'll get back at you friggin hope that's it How often should the clutch typically cycle when running normally on good pressure and freon levels ?

But it only shakes when pulling a heavy load ? What about daily driving and hard acceleration ?

Neither ..,, sell the xzt and get a used edge or quad for 400 .... Then you have *almost* everything ;) hahaha

I run a 180 also and generally sit between 180-185 ...

Pic attached ... I have the cap off at the moment and it's plugged with black gasket maker ;)

Yeah line from back of drier / condensor to the compressor Can't work out what that $30 part is ... Is that the High pressure line that runs by the battery ?

subscribed to this one hey - I thought you did this like 6 months back ???

Basically the line from the evaporator/heater to the compressor with the LOW side schraeder valve (for filling up with freon)

Did you notice any MPG difference by switching from 285=>255 at the time ?? Wondering about that for my truck.

The low side switch is down near the compressor right ? Only part I don't get is if it was leaking shouldn't you pick up some dye ?? Will check it tho - so thanks for tip. Let me get back to you on the line - don't suppose you wan to sell just the low side - as I have a NEW high side - but thanks for the lead - I wanna see if I can plug it first and see what happens to my vacuum and AC. Couldn't find that part number on the couple sites I checked ....... hoping this is it .......

Yeah no its a new EVAP/Heater Core ........it was already broken/warm air => that was the last thing I was charged $1100 for and when it blowed hot air after 3 days I said enough is enough and decided to do all my own work from that point - or to find a local cummins guy/forum friend or shop that I trusted - no more dealers or generic mechanics. So I vaccumed it back down as we had a trip to vegas. So I figured 2 new cans full and 5 hours each way with the A.C on would help - as when I drive to and from work its only 15-20 mins - so hard for compressor and system to get fully worked. So for the 1st time I have noticed some dye comming out of the low pressure line. I had not seen it before as there was always a little dye on both HIGH and LOW valves as you disconnect the coupling from filling with freon - just a small amount. Anyway I will get some pics uploaded soon. The way I know its new DYE is I CLEANED all the terminals and caps after filling to ensure NO/LITTLE dye - and now I have a good ring on the valve. So couple questions. 1) Where's a good place to pick up a LOW side line only. Price ? 2) I was wanting to vacuum down ...... and refill - and then plug the low side VALVE with something that would form a seal, but could be removed cleanly if I needed. This way I can test if this is truly leaking prior to changing the line. Any ideas of what I could use ?? I was thinking something like a waterproof "cauking" or whatever .... so a) Vacuum down b) Refill till holds 30+PSI c) Fill will caulk d) monitor/evaluate. If I determine this wasn't the issue - I can carefully remove the caulking from the valve ..... thoughts on both (1)+(2) ?? thx guys will post pics soon:thumb1:

Is there a fitting you can make to attach an air compressor to the system ? Assume you charge it on low side same as adding freon ? Hoping/assuming its not the evaporator - its new - but system has been leaking since it was installed. --- Update to the previous post... so do u think it was the switch or the new lines ? And where did u get you lines from ? and cost ? thx

632000 pounds combined vehicle/payload weight ......:stuned:274 ft long or something crazy baby

well ---- have blacklighted it 3 nights in row - trying to find leak ...... and definately losing freon as the compressor is cylcing more and the temps aren;t as cold. Really don't want to add fixaleak ..... so here's what I am thinking Have new evap/heater core and high pressure line So leak should be in Low line condensor or compressor Can't see anything on condensor/dryer See a little out of LOW schraeder valve ..... but hard to tell if thats from guage coupling .... Don't see anything out of compressor - but thats where there was supposedly a leak before ISX looked at it ... So thinking of replacing the LOW side line ........ its the only place I can see UV dye (althugh I am 60% sure its not leaking and its from the coupling of putting guages on/off). What you think and where's a good place to get LOW pressure side line .... ?? thx

No - most of the elbows are adjustable To control how much boost before the wastegate opens to relieve the pressure. Just with a fancy CTS you get defueling also. Both work ........ either by themselves or both together ........ obviosuly having them both work around the same value means you have double protection 1) Wastegate opens due to pressure with the adjusable elbow and/or 2) CTS defuels due to reaching peak boost numbers - so you can't push beyond that

Haven't seen the CTS - but there should be a setting for max boost ..... so should defuel as it appraoches. You ideally want to test this witt the mechanical wastegate (elbow) by ajusting that to open at 30psi also. That way you have 2x protection so to speak ..... or set mechanical at 30psi and Juice at 35psi ........

Yup and 30-32psi is a good range for max boost

Actually That would be a good link ............ a searchable fodler of videos that have been done for different components that repeat eg TRANSMISSION VIDEOS ENGINE VIDEOS VP44 VIDEOS TURBO VIDEOS EXHAUST VIDEOS TIRE/BRAKE VIDEOS FUEL/INJECTOR VIDEOS so on .... that way all the good work ISX and others do with cameracam don't get lost in ApacheVille.

* HX35 has 12cm exhaust housing - HY35 has a 9cm * HX35 uses a wastegateline with elbow to control the actuator - hy35 doesn't * One says hy35 on the plate - other says HX35 (sometimes). PIC is HX35 on left

Just holds the wastegate closed longer (so enables higher boost) - for HY35 turbo's only. You probably have a HX35 -> but if your reaching 30PSI either way your fine as you don't want to run a HY35 past 30 anyway