JOHNFAK

Yes will be a thread of pics ;) Best place for a cheap new s475 is crazy carls (thats where Im getting my stuff) - cheaper would be used on CF 1st tip from instructions. It says in multiple forums/places to install studs finger tight. I was confused what this meant - AH64ID reminded me (2nd time by looking in old trhead) that the studs have the allen screw and you use that to finger tighten it down till it bottoms out - and then back off 1/4 turn as per arp instructions ready for torque of nut. I am also doing this in the recommended sequence replacing one stock with one arp until all done and then will come back and retorque to full spec and finally one more time after a gently warm run. This will be with the head on.

ok - so I'm jumping the boat and going twins. I'm tired of fighting EGT towing even with methanol - dont want to go with reasons here - pm me if you need info on that one. I am guesstimate around ~400HP right now. I doubt I will ever go over 500-550 due to mpg and breaking my tranny So - I currently have a he351cw from john (AH64ID) here. Works well but want more. So underneath it as a primary will be a s472. My first step will be STUDS. This will be a longish thread. I am going to follow the ARP sequence and instructions for torque - you can get that here. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/images/PDFs/ARP%20Head%20Stud%20Installation.pdf Likely to start in around 6-7 days after weekend Will be ordering twins shortly as lead time is around 3 weeks.

Well going with Firestone Transforce and 17" ultra mavericksWill be on the truck Friday !! Will post.

those valve cover gaskets are not fun price wise

If they are stockers just replace them. It will be the best $200 you spent (once your get $80-$100 for your stockers). More power and you will know thats its NOT them if you replace and can move forward with the DIAG.

Basically you can run the larger 3rd Gen rotors and brake pads. more stopping power. Needs 17" rims and 3rd gen caliper brackets. http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/my-3rd-gen-brake-swap-pics-56k-t245515.html?highlight=big+brake+upgrade --- Update to the previous post... Thanks white Decided to pass on the whole deal and just go aftermarket. http://www.divtrk.com/images/100_7636.jpg Wont look as good on my truck - but will still work. Now gotta decide which tires Nitto Dura Grappler Firestone Transforce HT (**think IM doing these - boring but good ratings). Any others highly recommended ?

Yeah Im worried they will look to gawdy/loud this is them here http://charleston.craigslist.org/pts/2915862591.html

Yeah Im going to go look at them Saturday. Think they might be the chrome ones so hope not TOO loud. Would prefer aluminium as well - but right now its either these for $325 or aftermarket for $600. I kinda look the likes of the stock dodge rims better anyways (generally). So will see. Tires - I narrowed down to Nitto Dura Grappler (not Terra for same reason above) ..... or Firestone Transforce. Should have new wheels within the week

Friggin expensive Need a good used one ........................ if you know anyone

Looks good - what year was that off ?? No spacer ??

Yeah I found some 2011 (not 2010) that will work on price. But just not sure if the offset is the same and I have drum brakes (rear) so wondering if any issues there. I read on a trhead that can have issues with fitment on older rams 94-99 due to larger fins on the drums - but 00-01 *should* be ok .......... but not got any further to know for sure

Anyone know if 2010 rims will work on a 2001.I know the lug pattern and spacing is same ........ offset ?? How about anything else like TPMS impact the rim - or is that just seated in teh tire.thanks:thumbup2:

Any update on cause of low #1 compression ?

As good as stock just was hoping better - they might have been - but it's more my backend that's tight --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?00ba2e

Yeah for a 2nde Gen - Don't think he ever made them publicly tho - as in he wasnt sure if he was really going to do them when I called. I didn't see much of a difference with them on - but he did tell me that. What brand are you running and do you like them ?

Thats running on your 98 ?? Yeah currently looking at H2 rims (but need modified) 3rd Gen Rims - kinda hard to find right now - dont know why Custom rims - around $150 a pop 17" was all I was aiming to do the brake upgrade - but wondering if 18 or 20 too big .... 305 sounds wide - is it ?

ha ha - no but thats funny too No just wish my grandpa would even look at a diesel - or anything apart from a buick ........ forget about installing a proprane kit !!! What a guy !! Tell him Im putting twins on soon (shhhh)

Goerand, Garmon and DTT - probably that order

Thats probably the best comment I have heard on any diesel forum - period God I loved that

Whos running aftermarket tires ? 17" 18" or 20" how do you like them ? What brand tire and rim ? And size !

Hey guysNeed new Tires and RIMS. Who knew it was so complex.I think I want 17 or 18 inch RIMS so I can do upgraded 3rd gen brakes.How do I know if they fit ?? I just have a leveling kit.Any recommendations and advice of places to look at and sizes/brands ? ? thx

I like the info. You understand this a lot more than me 2. Only thing is (at least for me) this didn't happen after I installed a new vp44. Same for Jim as far as I remember - could be wrong. Seemed to happen after the transmission work and the heavier TC (3x disk). Theres also a thread on CF started about same thing - involving Goerand tranny. So possibly we have similar but different issues ..... not sure but if I put mine straight in gear .... no issues The RPM thing is interesting Ill have to recheck mine at idle .. keep up the thoughts/info

Hey - yeah the regulator and motor included in this part for $75. You can buy separately but as I wasn't sure what the issue was exactly - I just knew it wasn't my wiring harness as even with a constant 12v it still "hung". So basically it would go down ok - and then halfway back up it would just hang. Wait 10 mins and it would go most of way back up. Was a pain when you go through a parking place and have to wind down to get a ticket and then after you park had to sit in car for 10 min until it worked itself out. Anyway - replacement job was easier than I thought. Around 1hour. Only part that I got wrong was one of the main smaller parts of the regulator I put on back to front - the two bolts section/pic - (they arent equal in depth) so the window bumped it on way down ..... had to take back off and flip it around once I worked it out ...... all good

Saw this on a site for a 66. Not II. The 64 and 66 compressors are primarily competition compressors. Approximately 10% of our customers have witnessed excessive "surging" issues at lower RPMs (below 2000) and higher boost (above 20 PSI) conditions when using competition compressors for towing or daily driving. Anyways - yes you can use the 66 in twins - but its a lot of money $$ for a twin primary when you can run something just as good for $500-$700 and get some of your money back.

If its a boot or IC leak - why would he not hit the same issue in 4th gear ..... that doesnt make sense to me He says he can drop to 4th and can fuel back up to 40psi and not same issue ..... --- Update to the previous post... Yeah Im going twins man ....... forget this single nonsense towing. I think the 66 is a bit small. Sell it , get ~ s472 or s475 or ht3b and some twins piping and youll be much better off. Sell the 66 for around $1200 Buy one of the above for around 500-800 (depending on new/used) Get a twin piping kit for 1200 Youll only be a couple hundred more for it ....... and never have to worry about it again haha