JOHNFAK

Miles on that batch ?

Why removal of rockers. Assuming just air into the compression adapter ....... or a leak down tester adapter ..... compression stroke and valves closed ?

You should be able to feel/know. More a generalisation based on fuel/air. I ran the same box and injectors on a he351/s472 and it was just short of 500hp. Each truck is different.

Bet overall was slightly higher but you should have noticed more pull ... Then yeah think it's fuel. That setup your running is good for around 500hp ... so 55-60 on twins sounds about right.

Sounds like something binding on downward travel ...... might need a gopro to check. Or look for damage. Just check u joints and carrier for play. Truck parked and transfer in neutral .... wheels off ground rotate drive shaft and push watching for flex in joints. New shocks probably be fine ..... else gopro it ;)

Only problem I see here is that compression happens at like 500 psi .... so if it's a ring/cylinder issue may not see it at 75psi shop air.

Actually blowby looks fine engine acts great. Smoke at idle. From what I have been told by builders this is not controlled by pump. Usually means injectors.... however changed out and 0 difference. I'm thinking most likely a valve or head issue ...... but really prefer to isolate as best as possible before tearing open. Of course until I do the test ..... all just guesses.

Ok. But let's say you pull the head ..... how do you diagnose the ring issue versus the valve issue etc....... visual inspection may not show.

So .... Going to comp test here next week or so once my mate sends me the kit. I have a q though ..... If compression shows lower somewhere ..... how isolate to either cylinder/rings or head/valves/gasket

Supposedly the gate will open anyway from DP like you said. So going to hard to know when with the elbow closed. I cant see what fuel your running but if your limiting out like that then yeah thats the most likely cause - lack of fuel. Suprised your not driving that primary harder though as its a smaller turbine from memory on what you posted. Id get the secondary to start opening earlier and see if you can push the primary to 25-28 ...... So $4k for engine ballpark ? Gotta get my compression test done here soon ....... and decisions decisions. Did the machine shop use a torque plate when bored the block ?

Just read the entire thread on a road trip. Some questions. Is your knocking gone now with the fix of fuel leaks. What rebuild book did you use or follow for clearance spec and check. Did you weight balance the pistons and rods. Did you have crank balanced when polished. What head studs did you use... 425/625/H11 Have some questions on machining costs ... might pm you unless you want to share here. Any tips on reinstall .. always figured that would somewhat be hard going back in with harness and wiring .... you probably still had yours removed. Biggest lessons learned ? . Do differently or wasn't aware when you started. Great stuff.....

Well he used to Now I'm pushing 80+ on a 63/71/14 over 475/96/1.25 ....... I need to find a way to get W&F down here to Florida to rebuild my engine ..... see if I can get over 800HP. Common Bill ..... I'll pay for your trip Heck - even throw in beer

New pumps supposedly fix all teh other AIRCRAP issues they've been having. How do I know - I'm on my 3rd one ....... so far looks and sounds good (quiet)

40 .... heck I hit that on my he351cw .......single. Wait till you join the 80+ club. In all honesty - I love a high HP truck .... but a quick spooling 500HP is where its at.

Really sorry russ. I quite simply cant imagine. Take health so much for granted.

Easiest way. Unbolt bed. Tilt it with support from other side. Its a fine line befoer it will fall. Enough access to get to tank. Drill and install per instructions. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/8792-vulcan-draw-straw-installation.html Run the lines from pump to vp44 and connect through frame rail run wiring harness along frame rail to engine compartment from pump - secure and protect Install the fass on rail and connect to lines and harness. Prime and start. Dropping the tank is a PITA if it has any fuel. But makes some parts easier.

Depending on the issue - modulemasters.com I foudn to be reliable. Stay away from myairbags.com This is just a flow and resistor fix/replacement - but supposedly thats 90% of the ABS issues

lmao. Haven't done this myself but everything I read just says a) Disconnect motor mounts with support jack b) Tilt engine from front c) Gives you enough clearance to unbolt pan .... and remove oil drop feed tube .... d) reinstall

Well then might need to do compression test. Weird that supposedly cunmmins don't do compression - they do blowby (per bill [illflem]) ........ No other real signs ....... engine has no ticks ..... starts easy ...... and like I said probably over 600hp ......so strong. But I guess until I find the cause ...... hard to be sure. So ...... add that to list ......... rear seal, timing change, valve adjust, vibration issue and now compression test with next inj swap ...... lmao - I need bill (W&F) here .....

I remember reading something about compression test being a) Careful not to do "wet" ..... think this was referring to someone adding oil and repeating test ........ for leak ring/seal http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/89-93-powertrain/3319-compression-5-9-6bt-engine.html b) Can be misleading in results (inconsistent) due to some reason ........ hence reason cummins recommended manaometer as their standard Still be useful to do/know - so thx. Don't think its injectors (I originally did) as I have changed them out with no difference. DV look fairly close to stock based on shoulder height etc. I do have another set I guess I could throw them in. Hard to notice a loss of power when at 600+ ...... that same reason makes its hard on MPG and haze as I expect both to be worse than normal on truck with that HP.

Thx..... May end up taking you up on the offer ....... But will be down the track ...... Next time I pull injectors. Going to run with manometer test on warm engine for now .... Will update results once new tires get in ...... beyong that hat going to adjust timing and valves and possibly deal with a rear main seal ....

Did your replace the seals ?Supposedly you cant do tophat without machining. Still curious on 2 things 1) Did you hear any ticking from the air intake ? Would think with bad seal would tick heaviliy 2) How did you determine bad seal to begin with with all the oil in the head galleys around springs etc

Where I'm really heading with all this is trying to find source of white smoke at idle ... Ppump. From what I've been told this is typically too much fuel .... And the p7100 has no regulation on idle fuel. So normally its injectors. However have aver replaced injects with no difference ...... So don't think that's cause here. leaves me to check ...... Timing .... Adjust valves. Beyond that ....... Probably a valve issue itself ....cracked etc ...... But I don't think so based on no "ticking" sound from fuel/air leaking by ..... As well as head was off less than 2 years back from PO. Assume they checked head at the time..... But never know.

More details mike ....... I need to run this again warm .... See what the results are. I don't particularly have a blow by concern ..... Truck starts well, sounds great , and seems to have minimal blow by out of crank vent. Just make me feel better about dumping more $$ into it. Cant drive it today .... Blew a sidewall out on a $350 trxus tire ..... No spare ..... So 2 new nittos G2 on there way. Reference link. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/232657-checking-blowby.html

Only other thing is engine was cold ..... the test isn't clear cold or warm ..... but I might retry warm sometime.