JOHNFAK

Told ya it was the manifold bolt - just the wrong one (pyro) !! - do I get 1/5th of a point ? thanks for the link on the boost tester

That sucks - was gonna ask if it could be your pyro-probe itself come loose from the threads in the manifold - but not sure this would cause low boost or not since pre turbo. Plus you say egt's still move way up there. Curious on how you build a boost tester - so 'subscribed'.

Is this the same ISX that took me for a ride in puff of black smoke that threatened to bring that small down down on its knees with all the grocery/food stores closing for the day ??? *joke* I do like the orange - might earn you a few extra $$ if you sell it to a Florida guy one day Gonna get some pink for mine .......... ..... delayed to friday ....... Hope you get it fixed - only understood half of that - just caught up on all the lingo of an automatic internals, one day might have to learn the manuals also ...... man oh man:cookoo:

cool:thumbup2:

Sure - a couple left - they are small but nice - kinda like a small truck decal - edge sent me a few extra is all pm me your shipping address and i'll get it sent

I LOVE my edge (i have the juice - I think the boxes are pretty similar in timing/fueling programs)except for maybe it killed my trans :lmao:it is still (almost) worth it !!!! lmao I have about 6 edge stickers if any1 wants one - just pm me your address - I have a bout 5 or 6.About 2 1/2" wide and 5" long as a guess - heavy 3D material - with silver sticking backing ..... :thumbup2:free

Thanks cool - so nothing too bad with aligning everything back up - guess she bolts in where she needs to bolt in Just wanted to make sure all my drive shafts etc didn't have alignmnet issues with the tranny going back in. Gotta try and fix a small seepage in the back drive shaft also where it comes into the transfer case. I decided to buy this tranny jack instead (I was going for the $75 one -*miser* but I went and looked at them and just think I am better off with the extra $50) http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-3185.html ...... I will be giving it to my mate who's helping me anyway - and who knows might need it again if I have further issues and have to add the tranny itself !!! (just TC+VB now) Man - I am actually pretty excited to do it - never done something this large (mechanically) ........... so its kinda interesing for me. Hope I have no spare bolts left over at the end !!! HAHAHAH - its a long way to dakota with only R(everse) to have W+F fix it

thanks - after you posted this I was jumping around to read a bit on ATF4 and AMSOIL. Seems viscocity and other parameters are same or better. Plus recommended for ATF4 based applications also. Not that I fully understand that but assuming it 'should' last better/wear better under diff operating temps and frictions. I did notice it comes it 2.5 gallons (I hate only being able to buy 1qt jugs) ...... nice and even tho this was stated by a amsoil REP .... still kinda interesting:) http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/v8/9656.html I spoke with Amsoil Corporate and here are their comments: "The AMSOIL ATF is far superior to an ATF blended with hydro treated naphthenic oil. Secondly it uses a premium additive chemistry that meets the static and dynamic coefficient of friction parameters to meet ATF+4 requirements. It also meets the coefficients of friction parameters for MERCON, MERCON V, DEXRON III, and Diamond SPIII. Although the additive chemistry may be slightly different than the exclusive MOPAR fluid from the factory, it still follows suit with the parameters set forth by Daimler Chrysler. All AMSOIL lubricants are designed to improve performance and increase protection to engine and transmission components." "Further more, Chrysler developed the +4 spec to "fix" an inherent chattering problem with the Chrysler transmissions. That is the sole reason why Chrysler recommends +4 fluid and this is why nobody offers a +4 fluid. On the other hand there are fluids that are far superior to Chryslers +4 specs, including AMSOIL !" dunno - but interesting - thanks for the thought

ok - you kinda did - I'll let it slide ......... this time ---------- Post added at 05:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:03 AM ---------- came across this - kinda interesting "The ATF+4® Automatic Transmission Fluid formulation is exclusive to Chrysler LLC and ATF+4® is a registered trademark. The Center for Quality Assurance (CQA) monitors quality standards through each step in the fluid's progress from license through commercialization. Each blender and re-brander involved in the production and sale of ATF+4® must be licensed, facility accredited and undergo a range of product testing prior to final licensing. Licensed brand names are periodically market-sampled to ensure consistent quality." http://www.centerforqa.com/licensedatf4brands.html ---------- Post added at 05:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:25 AM ---------- The initial tests of this VI improver in the MS9602 test fluids were so remarkable that Chrysler modified the then-current ATF+2 spec (MS7176D) to include it. Thus ATF+3 (MS7176E) fluid was born; it remained the factory fill until ATF+4. [Lubrizol is still used in ATF+4 and is required in fluids licensed for compatibility.] In testing done during development of ATF+4, Chrysler noted the following viscosity loss from shearing for the following ATFs (20 hour KRL Shear Test): Dexron III - 40% loss Mercon V - 19% loss Type 7176D - 32% loss Type 7176E - 14% loss Type 9602 - 10% loss <<=== ATF +4 You can see what a significant impact the new viscosity improver had on ATF+3 when you compare the 7176D and 7176E numbers. From the standpoint of viscosity loss alone you can see why Dexron III should not be used in transmissions that require ATF+3 or ATF+4. In terms of other basic performance parameters, ATF+3 (7176E) comes the closest to ATF+4, with Ford’s Mercon V a close second. [Which doesn’t mean that Mercon is acceptable.] The goal in developing ATF+4 was to create a fluid that would match the performance characteristics of the current fluid (Type 7176D), but would retain those characteristics for at least 100,000 miles. The paper specifically notes that the anti-shudder properties of ATF+3 are usually degraded enough by 30,000 miles to cause noticeable shudder. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/fluids.html

Ha You and the MM73 need to write up your own dodge tip/tricks/techniques manual and sell it through vendors/amazon Make a mint $$ Hey - while I am here - you never mentioned how to remove the check valve from that #part for the hot tranny cooler line - wassup with that !!

YeahThe 2 books/manuals I have including the service manual say to do by the bottom inspection port. Which is WAY small.However looking at some threads on cumminforum I found exactly what W+F meant ...... and it looks a way better way of doing it.Whats the 2" black plastic CAP/screw that sits next to the metal plate cover (with 2 bolts) on the flex wheelhousing ? Does that come off too ? Looks like it was taken off this PIC (if its the same on this truck) - not sure why. I think the mtal plate covers the larger hole. And there is a plastic screw/cap that covers the smaller one.Also - lots of useful tips for taking it off - how about putting it back on ?? Making sure everything is aligned correctly etc ?

cool - wasn't sure if there was a way to drain it - as I figured all that weight will be sitting on the shaft once the convertor is dropped from flexplate. :p Yeah I might put my swiming togs on

Yeah - I have read that on some sites (pump in park) I will have to find out. All I know is its a shift kit together with new governor solenoid and electronics. I specificalyy asked about the governor solenoid as heard these can be an issue. If I decide to remove the check valve - both the one in the tranny cooler and the one in that part# you gave me for new hot tranny line - how do you get it out ? I think I am going to try and use Michaels idea of the 4x2 and jack for the cross members. I know the guy I will be doing it with used a sledge last time - - this seems a bit better. I had heard of two ways to get to the bolts for tq converter - 1 was through the inspection port at bottom of bellhousing - this is whats in the manuals and seems hard. Then like you mentioned - I had come across an article thats says another better 'port' on the passengers sides of the tranmission ...... I had a look and all I could see was a 2 1/2" inch plastic cap next two a kinda thin plate of metal that has two screws on it - I think this is what your refering too (its about all thats there) - so I will take a photo and upload to be sure Apart from draining the tranny pan - do/can you drain the transfer case and torque convertor of ATF4 prior to drop ?? ---------- Post added at 04:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:50 AM ---------- oh - reread above - Michael already said to drain the transfer case :P What about the torque converter ?

Yeah - I am hoping this will be enough (TC +VB) but hear u - hard to know what damage to the fricitons/seals etc are But worst case I can drop in the tranny from the same company - and still get my warranty - and all its goona cost is a few extra $$hundred for thatSo will still end up with a 3x disk TC , HD towing transmisison and upgraded VB for around $3500 (dropping tranny 2x and paying my mate some $$)But I might get away with just the TC and VB and that saves me $1800 I rung a couple of the big names. Unimpressed. Took 4 or 5 phone calls to repsond (i know they are busy) and didn't feel like I gained any insight more than the guys I went through.Plus - I really believe that for the most part they charge the extra 30-50% on covering their warranty. Yeah they will take back anything and ship back stuff and work with you - but you pay for it up front. I dunno - don't know the internals of the shop - but I like the guys so far - good to deal with.Proof will be in the pudding I guess. If it works out well I am gonna suggest they sponser here and get an add up keep the tips/hints comming guys - any1 got a PIC of where you access the TC bolts from - I thought it was from teh inspection panale under the bell housing - someone told me its not and you access from the engine/firewall side.Going to look now

Good point.We may need to setup a '911' page or phone - that converence calls you, isx, jim, w+f ..... so on and so forth *joke*Excited and nervous - will try and take as many picks as I can :P And post results after .I need to reserach on removing the 'check valve' from the trans cooler. SOmeone said to do this - can't remember who - think was on cumminsforum .......................... prevents check valve from sticking etc :shrug:Do I need trans pressure tests before and after - and how ?

Yeah- was thinking of removing the transfer case seperately - eg - get tranny jack on - drop a few "inches ... then let me get to the top bolts on transfer case. Hopefully then more stable on the tranny jack. What adapter was that you were using for the floor jack .......... looks like this http://www.amazon.com/Transmission-Jack-Adapter-Trani-Floor/dp/B00080QGYG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1273074449&sr=8-5 but I was woried I wouldn't have enough clearance to get out from under the truck.

Thanks for that pic link - funny enough I was wondering in my head if something like that would work rather than the standard 10lb sledge hammer :P If you lend me you truck - I'd be happy to 'try' doing it myself. Thing is I want my truck to move afterwards - hence the help - hahaha - and by that I mean - you have seen my other posts - I think this is a good insurance 'short' for ensuring the truck gets back on the road - and living in an RV park makes doing truck work hard - so having a mates place to do it at works out well also :P The tranny+TC I think rates around 325 pounds file:///tmp/moz-screenshot.jpg file:///tmp/moz-screenshot-1.jpghttp://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html hope that works both in terms of weight as well as 'clerance' - might have to guesstimate by measuring clearance whilst on ground.

Hey guys Ok - onto next part of the equation. The TC and VB are ordered - and should be here in a around 1 week. Thought I would ask for advice on dropping and reinstalling the tranny as well as the TC/VB replacement. Any thoughts or guidelines from experience. ?? I have heard the TC and the cross members can be a pain ...................... Any special tools or techniques help ? Things to watch out for ? thanks John ---------- Post added at 06:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:38 AM ---------- Oh - and yes- I am getting some help also hahahaha - thought I would beat W+F telling me to do so *joke*

Hey Anyone1 got any local tranny guys they recommend - closer to STL , MO the better Having problems working out who to use Goerand called 5 times - no call back DTT - mixed info (hit and miss) performance innovations - I'm leaning here - but 50/50 I have a guy at www.ShiftRiteTransmissions.com who will do rebuild and install for around $2k - but he's only charging $300 for convertor and saying its stall speed is 2100 same as OEM - so I think I want 1800 - makes me nervous Also guys at http://www.1stoptrans.net/ have an ok price - but know nothing about them .................. Really looking to keep this under $3k - thats why I was going to the VB + shift kit - but worried if my tranny does go it will take my TC with it. ---------- Post added at 04:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:59 PM ---------- ok never mind made a decision - yeah - no $#!!* Spoke with Frank from RevMaxx - nice guy. Bought a 3x disk TC with valve body and upgraded solenoids and shift kit. He thinks from what I described that's the issue. And he thinks the burnt fluid is due to the TC failing - not due to excessive heat (something to do with the nut and clutch on the TC) ........ but the best part - he said they are happy to ship the TC +VB ........ and should fix issue. IF not - they can ship the rebuilt tranny - and all up it only costs me around $150 extra (which is basically the shipping charges ) them having to ship 2 x seperately. What I like about it is I get to see if the TC+VB fixes the issue. And even if I decide to replace the tranny 1 yr later - they will work with me on it And all up its just a few $$hundred plus dropping the tranny twice if it gets that bad !!! I will do a full writeup on this for everyone And me. thx:thumbup2:

yeah - I'll admit I thought the exact same bit .......

YOUR A MACHINE !!!!!! ---------- Post added at 09:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:04 PM ---------- small donation made to mopar1973man this evening just a small thanks for the help from all the guys on here (you know who you are) - its been great help for me thanks guys - I appreciate the time you spend on my q's (even when I ask 2x) ---------- Post added 05-02-2010 at 08:24 AM ---------- Previous post was 05-01-2010 at 09:17 PM ---------- found this whilst looking up those part numbers just another option I guess so posting here trying to get a price on that mopar part http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/DM-CLG2.asp

ok - I think I might get shot down here - as I think you have already showed/told me this once......and I am going to ask again how do I get the temp guage into that cooler line .......... I think you might have told me about buying a new line with a Y-port fittting you can buy for like $110 or something {am I remembering correct} ................. *sorry* I was going to add a second gauge to the pan as I bought a $10 drain plug that can ALSO be used to put a sensor into the pan http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BM-80250 so 1 isspro sensor in the 'test' port and 1 sensor (edge) in the transmission pan and was gonna average the two temps (or monitor both together) so to speak or am I wasting my time (you know me by now - have to ask same q in 3 diff ways) :P Gonna order the TC + valve body Monday ................ Probably install a week from then ....*cross fingers* - will try and do a write up and some pics and also keep a history

So - the clutch dust looks ok - ........ ok well I changed filter and atf4 today ......... Yeah temperature guage sits on the test port and never gets over 180 normalyy nad maybe once hit 210 towing. I am going to put the edge juice temp (second guage) in the pan itself. Was thinking I might just got ahead and do the 3x disc TC and also the valve body or shift kit upgrade. Reckon that will cost me around $1500 .... and "hopefully" that will be enough. If transmission still goes ............. hopefully won't ruin the 3x disk and VB .............. and then I can reuse those parts and get a new basic tranyy with new clutches etc for around $1500 ...................... So still only be somewhere around $3000k - just have to drop tranny 2x .............. but that will be interesting for me. Not sure why it was that dark either - - tranny temp not so high ........ not that much towing ? ....... only thing I could think was maybe of the TC was startung to go out and slip more (or the VB) - could it burn quicker. Not sure if you think my approach (based on everyones thoughts) is pretty ok - appreciate any feedback on this as obviously tranny is something I want to do right :P Just don't wanna spend $3k if I can get away with $1.5k and learn something in the mean time john

Just joined - woo hoo - no more smelly puke overflow Shaa-Z-aam

ok - got an answer on the tranny pressure - guys at DTT said"The servo and accumulator on the factory transmission leak like crazy due to a crappy seal design, we make a billet design for both parts ".The also suggested based on my explanation of how it feels that dropping the pan is the best way to determine. IF nothing major - and not slipping in gears - then a shift kit and 3x disk TC will probably be enough.Here are some pics of my pan drop. I have only ever dropped a pan once before on a gas 4 door sedan - and it was a bit cleaner than this - but there are no major metal chunks etc.So thinking of going the 3x disk and either full VB or just a shift kit. Can you guys look at the pics and let me know thoughts.1) Is that about normal - probably 15k miles and 3000 towing. No idea if the filter was replaced last time.2) How hard is a shift kit - anyone got a pdf/instruction they can send me for transgo or DTT or similar (or a link) so I can see whats involved ? ) thanks guys