JOHNFAK

Inserting pics Shows wire harness and sensor decoupled from A/C compressor

HiBeen playing around with the airconditioning on my truck (as it blows hot air and has done ever since I got it -> but its not been warm enough for me to get on it).Figuring it was low R134a or whatever - got the walmart kit and started filling - problem was it would only allow like 10% of the can to be dumped into the low pressure port/accumulator before it was complaining of too highpressure on the guage. Well I couldn;'t hear the compressor - so after reading around I figured that was it.I climbed under and diconnected the sensor/wiring harness.I then tried to use a piece of wire to bridge the wiring harness - it smoked a little - then nothing.I got my multimeter out and it says no signal. (But I'm figuring there had to be a signal to cause the wire to smoke) ?? So - did I burn something ? More importantnly - have these 2 basic questions 1) How do I run a jumper wire (which I guess needs a 12V supply) to the sensor for the a/c compressor to get it to turn on ? Simply Using a paper clip etc on the sensor end won;t work as their is no power right ? Do I need just 1 wire from the +ve terminal of battery or do I need 2 wires (1 +ve and 1 -ve _ to complete the circuit ?? 2) How do I tell if the wiring harness is burnt or having an issue ? I stick my multimeter in the two connectors - but get 0 signal. Could it be a fuse - which fuse - in cab ? left side of truck where my edge juice is sitting on - or somewhere else in a relay ? Trying to work out if A/C compressor is dead or wiring harness is dead - or fuse - and how to force a 12V signal to the A/C clutch/drive compressor to get it to start circulating so I can fill up with the R134a refrigerant hope that makes sense gonna go get a pic now ......

HeyokSo I did what you said and the light comes on fine. So - if my 4x4 is working fine (which I determined by I had to use it 2-3 times to get out of ice driveway 2 months ago)(and I had to put into 4H to get up a steep slippery gravel road)(and it 'locks' on hard turn if in 4x4 on rdriveway) then assuming its not the light, I have a good 12V (confirmed with multimeter) etc So - whats left ? The sensor ?? If its that - where do I get to replace and cost ? Could it be anything else ? thanks guys (also starting a new thread on kind of the reverse jumper wire for a/c issue - will post here for reference if you can look at that 1 too) - thx

I can't access the site as its blocked from work but this might be it - I remember seeing it the other day www.cumminsforum.com/forum/.../223996-led-guage-cluster-2.html

sweet I wasn't sure if I could just stick the coppper guages wire into the plug/receptacle or if I had to buy some sort of adapter to get a good bite I'll send you a check - in the mail I'm real bad at math though - so I rounded the $1000.0000 so it would fit on the print Who :Pay JimPayment: $000.0001For:JumperWire and technical phone/internet support thanks dude john

Hey jim - cool - was thinking something similar - what do you mean by a jumper wire though ? Want to make sure it fits right etc Can I also test for voltage comming out of each side of the plug - assuming ones +ve and ones ground(-ve) ? thanks m8

Mwaaaaa - your gonna make me take apart the dash to get to the cluster aren't you http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-tech-articles/261275-diy-dash-light-bulb-replacement.html I think I might do that last - every time I seem to play with plastic - it breaks !!! {Does anyone make a titaniuym dash ? .... hmmm } No - the light has come on before .... just not often .... makes me think the problem is elsewhere ......... I might try and recheck the vacuum lines as well as the OHM signal to the 4x4 sensor .................... From there if I have to do the dash/bulbs - I might change them to all BLUE - Else - maybe somethink like a posilock or whatever Any other ideas - people jump in ........... ---------- Post added at 07:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:28 AM ---------- Hey so 2 more thoughts 1) Can I disconnect the 4x4 sensor on the fronmt axle - put it into 4x4 and then test for a signal from the sensore on the drive shaft/CAD - should this just send me 12 V signal ? 2) The diaghram/cad thing on the axle - what should this do when the 4x4 is engaged - should it pop down ?? It only has like 1-2cm of play. I don't see any holes in the vacuum lines ........ and still not sure what the two other lines going up to the firewall are exactly. Thinking I need to test (1) first ................. is it that simple - enagage 4x4 .... drive 10 feet ...... disconnect the sensor and see if a 12V signal is comming from the 4x4 sensor on the axle/cad line ?

Why can't we RAID 5 our Vp44 and AIRDOG hahahahahahahahahaha

Hey - thx - yeah I might have to go out and recheck - or there might be a difference in models. The red and black sounds teh same for vacuum --- but then the the two other wires I am pretty sure are grey and green. They run up away from the front axel/CAD up to the very top of the back of the firewall - kinda where the MAP sensor/Data link are - and the grey line then plugs into a black pvc line that runs half the length of the firewwall dash. The green wire (? no idea?) just dangles there - I couldn't see anything to plug into - but will check again tomorrow. ---------- Post added at 10:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 PM ---------- Found another site with similar kinda question Someone said the green line should be 1) Should be a green line that is the vacuum vent from the transfer case 2) 4x4 cad vent line. thing on the end is a ck valve to prevent vac/suction http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/parts-these-speedo-and-lift-pump-died-t235387.html So guessing its meant to be as it is ................ similar to the thing he's holding in PIC 3. So now back to look up and down my vacuum lines ............ anything else to look for ? Scratch Head

P0216 I think is the code - not what I said before Mopars new webiste - all the links are broken - haha - proves he can't fix EVERYTHING *joke* Yeah - I know how funds go ...................... maybe try craiglist etc - you never know - also keep an eye on the cummins and mopar1973man threads - sometimes people part out wrecked trucks where the vp44 has only 30k miles or slightly more rarely an airdog etc Unless you start getting really crappy mileage and hard starts - not sure what else damage you could do - so probably could just run the one you have into the ground so to speak - but someone that knows more than me will be able to answer more 'definatively'. I had to replace mine as was only getting 13-15MPG interstate and was hard to start etc

- yeah what that guy said (ha !) Once you get the airdog/fass in -> and sure your FP remains above 14/15 ..... then drive it 50-100 miles. Then take to autozone etc and have the codes scanned and see if anything comes up about not being able to advance the timing (P0263 ?) maybe from memory. Michael has the codes here somewhere. If you need a new one - ask the vendors here - I know jkidd does a good combo deal good luck

white :P notice in your sig "lucas synthetic oil stabalizer" Any comments - was just reading the bottle today at walmart and was curious - No experience with it - just wondering.

bump

The muffler and pipe The prebent 4" going to back of turbo.The SS bolt down clamps for each joint The 5" SS TIP

Yeah - they have it for 349 Buy-it-now or you can wait for auction. Like I said I got mine for $270 all in ...... and apart from getting the old one off - it was a breaze - maybe 2-3 hours all done. It looks and sounds awesome - I will take some pics and upload sometime soon. I would have liked to Straight pipie it - but it stressed me too much with state inspections. This even though it has a muffler its a straight through muffler Very very happy with it:thumbup2:

Hi guysI know been discussed on this site and others - but can't work out next approach.I have drawn a diagram. Attahced here.Whats the green wire for - can't find details on that anywhere and why just hanging loose - should be plugged somewhere ?Thoughts of next course of action ? 4x4..doc

Hi Michael You got the part # for that ?? Assume you mean the stock OEM fuel canister complete with 'float' switch that sits in middle tank. I had an issue where I busted the clip on the top of the fuel sensor to the harness - so I cut one out of a 2002 and required to give me a good connection. Could it be his harness/clip connecting to the fuel sensor [float] ? etc I guess either way dropping the tank almost required.

you guys rock

thx - I read the link but still don't get it ........ the port on the rear passenger side of transmission (as per edge juice install) has my sensor for my manual guage. I have a second sensor from edge sitting here - but no port to plug/tap into. Were you saying to use one of the lines somehow ?? sorry - good info - just I am :jr diesel: ---------- Post added at 09:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:18 AM ---------- ok - I re-read that and it kinda makes sense - I just don't know what lines are what - but sure I can figure out from a forum/friend or my chilton dodge book Did you say this part with the sensor thread built in costs $95 ? IS it hard to replace the existing line with this ? Any cheaper way of doing it - I mean - I already have a sensor in the port mentioned - I was just wanting to plug the other one in so I had two sensors working. :P

HeyI have the default port in the auto tranny (as per edge guide) already tapped/in-use for my manual isspro guages. Where/how do I tap the tranny for the 2nd time to run to the edge ?? Pics/diagram ? thanks

okSo installed a 4" SS TBE bullydog and edge juice with attitudeGot 2 MPG hand calculated:thumbup2: on 100 mile trip - was still rising slowly - so expecting 3 MPG on longer trip. No chance to test towing - but looks good so far Enjoying the power (when I want it) and the extra MPG when I need it - nice ! Will try and post a few more detailed fule records as time goes on comming months. thx moparman - who suggested these changes (as well as others)

I have no knowledge of if the blue chip pump is better or worse. All I say is the guy was helpful tome when I first started looking into mytruck - and didn't try and push a sale on me. He helped me diagnose a few things - and between him and moparman basically got me on the road. I do think unless you have a need for a HO or hotrod pump then they are overpriced - in the end I went with a local guy as he installed my guages/vp44 and aidog for $500 and I wasn't comfortable doing it back then - I would be now. Mostly I hear good things about bluechip - apart from the price. Check out JKIDD - here is a sponser here and cummins forum and ask other sponsers - you can get some good deals

Heheyeah I hear ypu on that Hopefully once the 'buzz' wears off it'll be ok and stay mainly on 1-3.Actuallyh - I was suprised at how much pickup I have even at those levels - seems much much more responsive and powerful

Man.I take it all back.Every single last bit of it. Just installed my edge - and by the time I got to level 5 I DIN"T WANT TO COME HOME !!! this thing rocks rocks rocks I almost don't even care about MPG anymore *joke* yeah baby - go baby Just like "mike lowrey" in bad boyz - "FROM NOW ON .... thats how you drive " !!!! thx guys

Nice Rig - I like the chrome on the bed and the grill/scoop