JOHNFAK

Someone who was doing a auto-> manual swap asked similar Q in CF. Response by someone was leave the auto plug in the wire under the dash and leave the nss wire on the clutch linkage unhooked and you need to ground the black/white wire in the transmission wire harness as this is the ground wire for the starter relay. The neutral safety switch on the auto is the ground for the starter relay and the clutch safety switch on a manual breaks the start wire between the ignition switch and the start relay. It was a 99 tho ....... but think he says here the black+white wires. I will need to check it out - not by truck right no - maybe in 2 hours - researching now and trying to call the company I bought from for ideas. ---------- Post added at 12:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:43 AM ---------- OK we got it fixed. Took a washer out on the outside between the case and the NS switch. Allowed us to plug the switch into the body a few more mm and get a good connection. Then we ticked over the engine and she wants to start. So going ahead - will update soon ---------- Post added at 03:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:54 PM ---------- Hey Took it for a ride - seemed a bit firmer and better. Main concern so far is the temperatures. I need to maek sure the TC is locking up. W+F - qq - I added the hotline with probe to the tranny cooler ..... and my temps are at least 40-60 degrees hotter there. So when I was running today (90 degree day) - the temps hit 180 in the mechanic guage test port - and 240 on the edge juice in that port on the hot cooler line. Needless to say I pulled over - whats the acceptable range for this port ? thanks john

Can we jump the wiring harness with a paperclip to test this is the cause - do you know ? eg Leave in 'P' - have the harness bridged with paperclip to close circuit, and try starting ?

Hey - no thanks that pic worked a treat. Goth everything in and all we had left over at the end was 1 washer Next problem - the truck won't start. I mean nothing - won't even kick over. Cycled key - and got a p1693 and check engine light. But nothing more. Checked sensors - they looked ok ............ any thoughts on how to proceed ? Checked fuses. Don't have a scanner avialable easily. Did disconnect and recoonect batteries (10 mins ) - no diff. *blah* ---------- Post added at 10:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:49 PM ---------- Thinking its one of the 3 sensors Don't think the vacuum actuator thing on top of tranny with 4 vacuum lines could do it Fuses are fine. Neutral Safety sensor ? --- how would you test if this is 'faulty' thx ---------- Post added at 10:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:01 PM ---------- hey ok - someone on CF mentioned Neutral Safety sensor Now I think about it - I remember when the VB went in - there seemed to be an extra 1mm where this mechanism was (it looks like a little ball point metal ball that would act as a electrical conductor when in right position) - so I am guessing its still out that much and therefore not registering the correct signal etc. Whats the best way to fix that - Do i need to send the VB back ?? OR can I somehow solder/increase the depth of the eletrical connector on the sensor in order for it to make contact ?? ---------- Post added 05-24-2010 at 07:08 AM ---------- Previous post was 05-23-2010 at 10:38 PM ---------- sorry just adding them as I think of them or see something. Should the truck start in 'N' with the brake pressed in. Read something about this bypases this mechanism - is this true for this truck ? Can we 'jump' the wiring harness with a paperclip or something to 'test' this safety feature as a one off thing to see if that is the cause ? thanks

Should have been more descriptive. Need a GOOD photoshowing the spring mechanism right by the tranny cooler lines on drivers side tranny. Think it connects the TV and shift linkage - want to make sure we put back togetehr right. Couldn't find it in FSM either. thanks ---------- Post added at 06:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:25 PM ---------- ACTUALLY - that photo is it .... awesome - right on !! Going out to hook that part up ..... Any pics of the actual shift linkage near the frame ..... where it does a 90 degree turn to come down to the tranny ...... it bolts to the fenderwell (3 bolts) ....... ---------- Post added at 07:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:31 PM ---------- I think we got this. Had to loosen one and tighten the other - then the shifts seem ok going through gears update soon thanks isx

ha ha - ok ok - well actually - hell - that will get me to idaho/dakota ..... lmao ..... sure:tease: ---------- Post added at 05:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 AM ---------- hey 95% done Having small problem working out the linkage for the gear shift. Can someone post a photo or link ?? Would it be in the FSM ? Its not in chiltons. thanks

hahaha - yeah ISX already laughed at me saying his is already back up Man - even though we struggled - its been fun - not sure I would want to do too many of these though. I just hope I have 4 gears at the end.

never mind ...... got it What a weird piece Just ply's off with a screwdriver pretty easy ......... lmao ok .... will update with next 'help' soon thx ---------- Post added at 03:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ---------- Cool - VB in - did you mean as you push rod back into the case it can disrupt a seal ?? It seemed to go ok - so thinking all alright. Bumped something 1str attempt - but not hard - then just guided it down. onto next part - get the tranny up ... minus transfer case ---------- Post added at 10:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:39 PM ---------- well - 2/3rdsd of the way there. We got the tranny back up in like 10 minutes without the transfer case. What a difference !!! Put it back on the tranny jack and tightened her down - so much easier to move and position - went straight on. Then spent about 3 hours @##$ around with the TC bolts. Got 3 on fine - then the other 3 just seemed to be off by like 1mm. So we loosened back down the 3, and kept rotating the flexplate - and eventually we got all 6 on nice and snug with some locktite. Benchpressed the transfer case up - that was hard but quick ........................... then tightened her all down. So tomorrow ....... get cross member and drivelines in, get all vaccum, sensor plugs back in, coolant lines with new temp probe, atf fluid, check everything over 1 more time and then start her up and get the gears changing and fluids added/topped off. ZZZZzzzzzzzzz

okthe part that I am struggling with is basically the metal shaft piece in top left corner of VB pick. I think this is the shift rod/linkage. I can't get this out - as there are clips and metal shifters on the outside - so can't pull it through. And I don't see how these would come off or if they are meant to - assume so .... as else I don't know how you pull it through to replace

okGot the transfer case offI have tried reseating the the TC and I think its all the way in.even took the new one off and reseated the old one - the old one does fall below the bell housing line - but then the bolts welded on stick out 2". I think this design is just different - as the threads where the bolts will start are about the same distance (new versus old). I am now doing the VB. The instructions say remove the clip from th park rod - prior to removing the 10 bolts that hold the VB in ??? I am not usre if I can even see the park rod with the VB in - unless its the wrong thing.Any1 got a pic ?? I was planning on pulling the VB slightly and see if the park rod starts to come with it and then it may be more obvious ? thanks Once I get this done - my mate will be back - and we can retry tranny with no transfer case - should be easier. thanks guys

We took all off as 1 unit. Was thinking of taking off the transer case to make it lighter. Mike mentioned need to replace the seal/gaskett between if we do this - can you pick that up from any autoparts store ? The balancing act with the transfer case did seem to be the hardest part - so much weight. thx guys

Hey guysYeah thx.I am going to go out today and cleanup the tranny and fiddle with the TC to make sure its seated ok. I got a quote to tow it to someone and have the tranny reinstalled and it wasn't that bad given we already have it out.Thinking of heading this route - as I really don't want to damage the TC or seals - or even worse damage the threads on the housing as we put her back in. Main reason is running out of time - took day off Friday to do it and can only work with mate from 5pm to 8pm in evenings now -- so can't take anymore time off. Will keep ya posted ........ it was interesting enough just taking it off. Really wasn't too bad apart from that one 1 bolt. Took some time though.Serious props to he guys that do this themsleves. WOW That Tranny with the TC and transfer case is 1 heavy son-of-a-gun

Well - I can get my hand down the side - a little ways ...... but towards the back it looks like its sitting pretty close to bell housing. Don't want to damage anything - so trying to decide weather to tow to mechanic or try and finish off. Not sure if I should pull it off and try and reseat it ......... seems like its in all the way - but we thought that the first time and it definately went in an extra click / inch. :P

nice

the TC on this tranny seems to be in about the same position ? http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/212667-new-goerend-48re.html http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/brandpages/8817071%2Bpinline_medium/129_0411_bd_02_z.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.fourwheeler.com/brandpages/129_0411_cummins_diesel_dodge_ram_upgrades_part_2/index.html&usg=__ffN2CMrXPH1AAuZQbIgvJtl0pAk=&h=105&w=140&sz=6&hl=en&start=143&itbs=1&tbnid=IWZifQalaGUs2M:&tbnh=70&tbnw=93&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddodge%2Bram%2Btorque%2Bconverter%2Binstall%26start%3D140%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D20%26tbs%3Disch:1

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having a lil problem getting the tranny out. we got 7 out of 8 of the bell housing bolts out. one is a lil different looking not sure if it has to come out also? and does the starter motor and crank shaft sensor have to come out also or is it just suggestion? call us. we need help! 660-973-2351 ---------- Post added at 08:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:55 PM ---------- Hey ok - we got the tranny out. Just needed to buy a more powerful air wrench. Spent 2 hours almost on one bolt between fiddlng and going to 2 stores for parts. Now we have tried to put back in - and had all kinds of problems aligning it back. We think the TC might have not been seated properly. We spoke with mike (THANKS MIKE) and he thought maybe same. So we have twisted,pushed,pulled and it seemed to go in one more notch. Now its sticks out jus tabout 1 inch maybe - which seems right given it has to go into the flexplate housing about the same distance in order to bolt against the flexplate housing. We then stated to slip on tranny jack - so we had to call it a night and leave it on it side. We are going to try and reseat it tight on the jack late tomorrow. Pics here. So - the question is does the TC look ok ??? My mate is working tomorrow so I am going to try and clean up tranny and do the VB. And we are gonna have another attempt at it. If that fails - I may have to tow it to a mechanic.

Yeah you caught me once on that already. Subscribing to this also.

Couldn't have asked for better response - I tried to hit the 'double thanks' button - but its not there ....... lmao You would also recommend disconnecting the Park Rod as per the BD instructions ...... or pull out with the VB as for FSM ? If leaving in there - is getting that E-clip back on a PITA ?

well she's not in yet - rain and a few other things prevented monday ..... shooting for friday I have two main articles (together with info here as well as 2001 servie manual) that I am using/looking at. Most of it makes sense - but I have 1 main area of concern at the moment and thats the VB drop and replace. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/farmboys-diesel-performance/97616-fbd-torque-converter-valve-body-install.html http://www.dieselperformance.com/productManual/10304,16,17,18,19_-_Valve_Body_Installation.pdf Specifically - (a) I was planning on doing the VB once the tranny was all the way out - but the guy in the article did it while tranny still attached - then removed for TC. Any reason ?? (b) The Park Rod part confuses me - Steps 10 and Step 12. i.e 10. Carefully remove the E-clip from the park rod, leaving the park rod in the transmission. 12. When lowering the valve body,gently work it around so that the park rod lever is left in the transmission and ensure that the electrical plug is not damaged in the removal process. OK - so is the park rod a locking lever for the 'P' shift position ? And it sits internally in the VB ? The BD diesel doco says to remove the clip and take out the VB and leave rod inside ...... the FSM says to remove VB and take parking rod out with it ?? Any thoughts on this also ? thanks guys:thumbup2:

sweet

Ok - afraid to say - but I have mine sitting on a piece of heavy cardboard over the bolts that held the orginal OEM filter in place, with a snug bungy cord over the front of it where its clamped to the airintake tube going to turbo, same as LiveOak. Heatshield is best way as at least it offers some protection but also the bit I like best you can mount it properly on those bolts so its a firm connection and you don't damage the filter. I am going to do mine - I just need to get my brother to weld me one off the templates (you can download from this website). I cut back the fire-blanket on the hood just enough in the corner so it couldn't fall and restrict the air flow of the filter. Seemed to work better for me - but mine is a little raggedy - I was concerned it had enough flex in it that it would sit on top of the filter - this way I know it isn't ---------- Post added at 07:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:32 AM ---------- Here's the heatshield download templates and some pics http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bhaf/bhaf.htm

I think I am around 500-800 if my foots not in it .......... can get to 1100-1200 pretty quick if I stomp on it especially with Levels 3-5

Any updates boss ?? You ordered one right ?

Cool .... for the dumb q's - how do you build 20 lbs boost ? Essentially your capping off the turbo which prevents air intake to the turbo and then onto the cooler, elbow and finally engine ? And doesn't any existing air pressure just pass through to the exhaust bypass and out ? Unless you keep engine off I guess ?