JOHNFAK

Not sure - haven't driven at night yet - will do so tonight for a test drive and update - good question. I just did it because the yellow seemed a bit old - and I was thinking of halogen lights - but really I wanna kinda of save $$ now in case I need a new tranny in the next 12 mths. So rather than $100+ for new lights - used the various sandpaper grades and the compound at end and came up A1 Especiallyu as I have ripped off my bumper and trim as well and have sanded that to clean and about to respray with plastic matt black - front end starting to look real good. Will update about any difference at night sometime tomorrow hopefully.

Yeah dealer said I need to order whole new bumper to tune of $125 - so gonna pass on that.Can get off ebay for $60 delivered if I have to ......... Will check oreilly's/fastenall/home depot and see if I can make something work. Have all my plastic trim off and front bumper and have cleaned/sanded down and am re-spraying with some plastic matt black paint. Looks wicked. Will post a quick thread with pics later. Going to hunt for some sort of clip/device I can make work. ciao

Cool - good to know about the ecm/pcm - I always assumed they updated the onboard software somewhere - like some memory-tables. Will tighten back down and check for the 12V on the lead - I can do that thx guys

Yeah - I thought Level 2 on the juice without TAP - not sure if that differs from the COMP box or not.Still weird I have so much power - feels just like it always did on Level 5 - thats what made me think that once the level was set (say level 5) and the TAP was disconnected maybe somehow the software for fuel/timing was still loaded in the PCM or whever so still getting full power, fuel and timing even though TAP was off. weird. Either that or I have always been running at +60HP which means I am about to lose my pants !!!

Hey. So today I was stomping on the gas a little just getting a feel for new injectors as well as the TC+VB and other stuff had done recently. Seemed pretty good - good throttle response, no slipping and really grabs in 3/4th but I get home and doing some other work - and I notice the VP44 TAP has come off. (I have a stealth plate and the wire that runs from the tap to the EDGE module has come off - basically only attached to the edge now and no longer completing the circuit to the VP44. Yet power is still really good ?? So - guessing that the edge doesn;t constantly send/receive info the vp44 ? Basically once its set on Level 5 - it stays on level 5 - and now the TAP is gone it still is able to have the appropriate fuel delivered - I just won't be able to drop down to levels 1,2 as far as fuel/timing go etc ??

Anyone know where to get clips that would fit our front lower bumper guards ??? I have a few that have fallen off and because they are a specific size and shape wondering where to start :???Else may have to 'rig' something. I can post a pic tomorrow..

Ok - good to knwo that there will always be vacuum in one of the red/black lines depending on which axles emgaged (2WD/4WD). Was reading the FSM page 24-12 - it talks about the vacuum diagram and wire colors - but I think this must be for HVAC only - as there is no white vacuum line - and I definately havea whte line connecting the vacuum at the firewall to the XFER case. Might have to buy a cheap vacuum gauge to play around and see if I have enough vacuum in each line. Damn hard to get to that sensor/actuator thing on top of the XFER case though.

So couple questions here1) 4 vacuum lines, white, green, red and black.Red and Black used to the CAD.White and Green go to the back actuator on top of XFER case.What are the white and green vacuum lines for ??? 2) Green vacuum line looks like its capped off at the end ? Its not attached to the "T-LINE" that runs along the firewall. The white-one is however. Normal ? 3) Do all 4 lines have vacuum all the time ??? Or only when 4x4 engaged etc ??

Pic of after - didn't take a before image - but typical faded with yello tinge. Now - pretty much like new

seems I may need a vacuum gauge in HG.

This part

Hey all Just used a 3M lens restoration kit for by rear cabin light as well as my front two headlights. Normal yellow fade etc from sun and time. The results were amazing - I would say honestly a 90+% improvement. Takes 3 or 4 takes of using various grit sandpaper followed by rubbing compound at end - but really effective. Will post picks in the morning. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Headlight-Lens-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1283740197&sr=8-1 Good stuff !!

thanks man - yeah I was wondering on details of the vacuum system here. eg At what point do the lines have a vacuum - as you engaged only ? all the time ?? both lines or just 1 ?? And how to test vacuum ? Just by feel or is there a guage for vacuum etc ?

Anyone know how to test the vaccuum for the CAD 4x4 axle. Specifically - not sure if I have a problem with the CAD itself - or vacuum isn't correct on the two lines (red and black). Is there an easy way to test a) There is vacummb) Its the correct vaccum pressure I suspect my main issue is the actuator/thing on top of the transfer case - as it was pretty dirty when I reinstalled my tranny - so I cleaned out as best I could. Just want to know what I could do to test each component - before I go out and buy a posilok. thanks

Dunno - good question - for me right now its mainly space- Even those these things aren't that big - there's only limited places to put them

Sure - but I assume thats for an AUX cooler relying on the truck moving for airflow - eg having up front ? The tranny cooler (AUX ) that I was planning to use was a 12V switched fan that would be under the bed somewhere - so pretty much ambient temps. I don't see why you would use an AUX cooler up front - unless it was a bigger capacity than OE. The whole point for me with the 12V switched FAN was during stop/start traffic. During highway driving/lockup I am barely over engine temps (180) in the HOT line out of the tranny. But much start/stop traffic and I quickly hit 220 in the hot line.. So with a 12V switch fan - when basically not moving and no airflow up front - I hope this will supply enough flow to keep my temps in check. So I guess 2 different options - but having DUAL coolers (OE + AUX) and having the AUX with its own air supply seems to make the most sense to me to cover all situations (towing, not locked up, stop/start). Can't give any figures as won't be starting till this week, but I know jimbowie mentioned around 50degree drop on his setup. So hoping for something similar.

Nice had thought of the volume stuff (and used your volume tests to confirm was a problem with liftpump and fuel lines) a while back - but that return also makes sense for keeping cool.

ok coolI was a bit confused if it was an actual 'boost' reading from a sensor ....... or just an 'interpreted' reading based on how much fuel/timing it was dumping etc. Sounds like its mainly a real reading based on MAP - but with fooling built in ? hope I interpreted correctly. Main reason kinda along with OP - is that I knew my HY should be maxed aroudn 30~35 ...... and thats why I am going to add my j-hook for towing etc - hopefully reduce EGT;'s a little when its really pulling .................. currently I see 21 - so figuring thats the wastegate - but wasn't sure if that was a 'real' pressure reading as obviously the wastegate will open at real pressure

So - this isn't accurate so thats why people get dedicated Boost Sensors ?

turn up the boost ?? How is that done - I thought it was just done through more fuel - so a chip ?? I still need to get a j-hook on my turbo. Side -q - related - the edge is how I monitor my boost - but assuming thats just getting the computer reading from the ecm/pcm or whatever right - as I don't actually have a dedicated boost gauge anywhere - unless there is a built in sensor it reads from factory ?? I think when you install a dedicated boost gauge you 'tap' the intake horn or use that 'boost bolt' - so how does edge measure ?

Kinda lost me here (i know i know easy to do) Why does he need to bypass - why can't he just add AUX between the OE cooler and the tranny on the return line. Only reason I ask is thats what I plan to start hooking up next week. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-15950/ oh ..... I just re-read - I think your pretty much saying to use AUX and not bypass unless it has enough capacity. In terms of hooking up - I asked jimbowie and he sent me some pics of his install - he has it mounted on drivers side between frame and real wheel driveshaft ........ with the frame and the cross member as anchor points. thats what I am gonna do also.

Man thats 'tight'. Now you need to update your profile pic with that side view Nice job.

Hey mate - where u been ? MIA !!! lmao yeah - I have seen a write-up on that at CF somwhere. Only problem is I will be heading to alaska ...... so I might need it Any idea of how many degrees it adds ?? Assuming its stops adding heat once it reaches certain temp ? Not real sure if its the tranny - or if its just the low stall 3x disk. I kinda have the heat - but it rises most in 2-3rd and especially when at complete stop with no airflow over the cooler - hence the derale as auxilliary cooler. The tranny itself has a weird 2nd-3rd delayed shift at times - around 2000 rpm I think ............ again though not sure if this is due to the 3x disk ..... or if I need to look at the TV cable or something. Its not persistent or noticeable enough to be able to diagnose much more than that - so considering just keep on driving her until it gets worse/more defined. In mean time cooler will go on to engage fan at 180 or via maually controlled 12v switch.

--update -- Well truck back. Coils and suspension ok - see other thread. The head had to come off and be machined/cleaned back I think where the valve seats on/in the head. The valves or the parts the valves run between (guides ?) were also replaced. So the sound is gone - which is main thing - unsure how it really happened though as the truck was previously stock (no TAP to injection pump) as far as I could tell, and no egt monitor or otehr monitors. Now I just need to get my derale cooler in - still noticing my hot line gets to 230 degrees if lots of start/stop traffic with the 3x disk TC. AS soon as it locks up she drops back down to like 170-180 and steady. Cool line stays around 150-180. Longer term still not sure I am not in for a tranny - keeping an eye out for good shops. If you guys know any coastal ones - I will be travelling from FL to TX/AZ/CA over the next couple months - let me know idea of reliability/price. Already have the 3x TC and upgraded VB (shift kit). SO just need to core with seals/clutches/bands/hard parts etc