JOHNFAK

michaelWhere do you get a compression test from for these trucks and whats it normally run ? $$And how/where do you run a vacuum test - which line ? I need to do the crankcase vent alteration SOON !!! lmao - thats where most my oil is comming from

Hey ISXThats real generous but couldn't let you do that. :thumbup2:If you have time some weekend - this or near future - I can come to you - gives me a chance to hand calc some MPG's anyway.I think your about 3 hours away from STL

Hey ISXYeah - main problem is I don't really know if its 'slipping' or how bad etc and this is my first diesel.Best way to describe it is it feels like in 1st its pretty 'sluggish' unless you give it a little throttle and then it kinda 'grips'.Give it too much and it definately slips with the chip - it just 'spins' on level 5 with edge if you go too hard.Now - normal driving - it shifts into 2nd and 3rd - but again - kinda feels like its trying to 'find its way' with rpms and 'grip' ........ its not until the TC locks in in 4th that it really feels efficient.So also makes me wonder if its just the crappy OEM TC. And maybe instead of full trans rebuild - just do the TC and valve bodyI can pickup a 3 disk TC for around $600 *i think* and I guess a valve body will run me $500. Then I need to find someone who can help me do the work for around *hint* hint* No - seriously - I don't know what I am doing just yet ........... I kinda need to find someone that knows transmissions that can just tell me what going on by driving it and feeling ...... and go from there.Else I guess try the band adjustment and other things as mentioned above. Called into a guy in STL today - but typical backyard deal - whole lotta whoola - and not much that made sense ...........

Here is the link I was going to use for specs. http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/AT_band_adj.htm bump:tongue:

I got a bully dogLOVE ITbut mbrp was the other one I was looking at as its good value:)

They both rock Two of the friendliest/helpful vendors out there. ---------- Post added at 05:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:00 AM ---------- Should have added for MPG - I found the only thing that worked for me was an Edge Chip to advance the timing/fuel and larger exhaust This cost me $400 for edge 2nd hand and $280 for exhaust. I picked up 3 MPG hand calculated on long haul trips. see http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1370-Towing-MPG-HP-advice?p=11117#post11117 The only other way I see to pick up that kind of mileage would be Better injectors RV275 or whatever like michael runs ...............for spray pattern - not sure on $$ Better trans/TC - I am running stock TC -> but this whole setup may cost you $1000-$4000 depending on what you go for Only other thing - get a BHAF its a good $70-$80 investemen (with prefilter)

Hey guysThinking of doing a band adjustment - recommended by a smart man/friend on another site.Don't know much about it - seems not too hard - just be careful with torque.Anyone with extra input here ? Personal experience ??I seem to be slipping a little in my transmission - so was going to try this first , get a diagnostic from an auto shop in STL 2nd , then some trans additive (seafoam transtune) 3rd and if all else fails looks like I am up for a new trans :cry:Any advice hugely appreciated.ISX - might even ping you one day and if I can get to you see if you can give me you 2 cents worth after you take her for a drive - even throw in a beer or a pitcher of ice cool lemonade !!!! lmaoTrans Temp never gets too high, fluid looks and smells fine - I do have a leak somewhere (I think its near the Transfer Case tho) ........

wild when you remove the CADwill it leak much gear oil ? IF so do you need to top up in the front diff ?? Also - if it needs replacing - anywhere know where to get the part ?? Was thinking about a posi-lok.:P

Yeah - I was really stumped at what was what at first as well as what to 'jump' to get compressor going ...................... but basically everything was exactly as you said Wish I knew about the powerprobes before hand - I was wondering if I was going to have to take the whole radiator and lines out to get to the wires and then since they are attached to something - if I had to cut into them - thats what made me think the HP harness is what every1 was talking about - as its pretty easy to get to. Anyway - thx again as always

I didn't know where to jump.Hopefully the pics above show WHERE and HOW to jump.Here is a pic of the compressor from underneath. The blue switch for the wiring harness is the HP switch. Don"t touch/jump this.:banghead:You will see a clip/switch. After trying to jump the Low Pressure switch with papaerclip - I then tried to jump the harness here. DON"T DO THS.I think this is what shorted my 10A red fuse for the a/c clutch.Anyway - thats about it - I have a bunhc of doco he printed out for me with pressure specs etc ......... I am not sure if there was a cheaper way to do it as we had to devacuum and fill via the HP port. I will try to upload.Hope this helps someone in future.John

Here's the bit that confused me - how to get down in there with disconnecting everything to jump the wire - and which wire. Use a powerprobe - its like $60 or free from friend and has an extension that easily lets you get to the sheathed wire at front and you just press against it and hit the button to supply 12V - CLutch Kicks in - I suspected it would as it spins freely by hand. http://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-Case-Acces-PWP-PP219FTC/dp/B000UMEM2K ---------- Post added at 10:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:31 AM ---------- ok so after all this (checking fuses and replacing, trying to jump compressor by paperclip on accumulator wiring harness) and finally jumping the a/c via poweprobe we vacummed out all the air/gas as the guys machine was saying it was mainly air. We then regassed it - and it looked like a leak in the HP shraeder valve. The compressor however was now engaging properly when A/C switch on in CAB ..... and we had cold air. So we had to DEGAS ...... and then replace the HP ac line from firewall through back of batery and into the condensor at the front. Once done - all OK - everything back to normal !!

So if fuses are ok - you can check for 12V supply comming into the LOW PRESSURE swich (green) on top of accumulator/dryer using multimeterI had 12V.If fuses are ok and you have 12V you can try closing the circuit on the harness - using a paperclip of appropriately guaged wire. This will often then close the circuit and the compressor will kick in -> you can then try filling via the LP port with R1234a refrigerant. (PIC 1)MINE DID NOT KICK IN. This is where I got stuck as everyone kept saying 'jump' the compressor. I had NO idea. It is really quite simple - but no-one explained it to me - I guess I asked it wrong.See the wire with the note. USE A POWERPROBE - they are like $60 new ..... or borrow one ..... all you have to do is supply 12V (via the probe) by sticking a long attachment from the probe onto the wire sheath (touch firmly) and press the btton to get the 12V supply. (PIC 2)THIS RESULTED IN CLUTCH ENGAGING. So Compressor is ok I thought it would be as the clutch could be spun by hand.

The first thing I would do is check the fuses. There is a single 10amp fuse and a fuse relay. You can1) DO a visual inspection.2) Use a multimeter like a powerprobe to see if fuse is valid and has correct power.3) Swicth out the relay with another if you thin its suspect.Here are the fuses and locations. My relay was fine.My 10Amp in bottom left corner (red 10amp fuse) was blown.

ok.So I basically ended up taking it in to local midas where I dod my state inspection. Ended up costing me $450 with the diagnostics, de-vacuumed and regased - then had to replace high pressure line and regas the following day. Anyway - I got the guy to show me everything and asked a bunch of questins. So I am gonna update this thread in case anyone else got stuck on something similar. I think MOST of what I am saying below is correct - but people will jump in where its wrong.Starting at front is the condensor sitting in front of radiator/fan etc. You can see the silver High presssure line comming into it (this was replaced).Under the serperntine belt, kinda lower and further forward than the oil filter is the actual compressor.Way at the back of the firewall between the PCM and the tranmission dipstick is the accumulator/dryer - it has a green low pressure switch on it.

Hey - yeah so far I haven't hit too many issues - with the guys here and some people I have bumped into helped me manage to do a few things. Little bit stumped on this one ................... I have some people I can ask - else I might just take 12V +ve and 12V -ve and see if I can kick the compressor on from the switch I was playing with before. Don't know if this works - wild and free said no and he knows his stuff but some other people said yes - so that kinda confuses also. anyway -> will keep posted - there sure isn't much detail info on a/c for rams out on any forums - so might put something together at end for others. worst case its just A/C and summers almost here right - what could be wrong with that ---------- Post added at 09:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:28 PM ---------- No thats a great thought - funnily enough the other guy I was talking about is a young guy on that forum that showed me the power from the edge juice prior to me buying one (as I had tried others without tapping the Vp44 and wasn't impressed) .......... he's pretty clued on so I PM'd him about me paying him to help give me some basic 101's and also help complete some of the things I wanna do and 'think' I can do but have never done before - eg change brake rotors/pads he seemed kinda keen - so will see what works out - thx jim

Haha michael - no sorry - my bad I meant - I can't even jump an a/c compressor with all the help here from the guys :banghead: and now you send me a wiring diagram I don't even know how to 'partly' read it Hence the 'chinese' reference. A little frustrated - so hope thats not comming across - as I know this stuff is grade 2 for you guys :| Heck - It took me 2 hours before I started the thread to work out where the a/c compressor was - I thought the compressor was the accumulator/dryer : ) I managed to work that one out eventually (couldn't find it in 2001 service manuals or chiltons - I guess they considered too basic also) by looking at pics on ebay of what an dodge ram a/c compressor looked like - then I realized it wasn't the accumulator. anyway - am sure somewhere I will work it out ..............

mwaaaaa - can I have the non-chinese version ??? ok - I get the point ........................ trust me I am as frustrated trying to work it out as your guys are trying to explain it to me ........ will find another way thx anyway

Yes plugged back in But there is no voltage in that part of the wire harness - wondering if I shorted it when I tried to jump it with the smoke - hence thinking maybe a fuse now - then back to jumping the accumulator/dryer switch ?

okthanks - I have 12V (tested with multimeter) comming from the wiring harness that plugs into the accumulator/dryer. I tried to jump it by closing the circuit - and nothing happened.So - thinking I either have a dead compressor - or a fuse issue. The only fuse I could find was a fuse relay for the A/C Clutch on drivers side fuse panel under hood near battery. Not sure what to do with this ?? Let me know if any other ideas - I am gonna ping a guy that helped me out once and see if I can pay him to help me on a few things with the truck - and learn a little - but not sure if he has the time. thx again

makes sense - got it

Ok - I call this the accumulator - maybe I was wrong in its naming - hadn't heard the term dryer before - so sorry. Out of curiosity - If I jump the two wires here - how does that kick the compressor on ? And do I jump the switch on top of the canister - or the wiring harness that plugs into the switch ?

thanks so anyone got a schematic or diagram showing the 'dryer' and switch that I can safetly 'jump' to check compressor don't want to get the wrong thing again

So your saying this is the wrong switch ? Yeah - I know I shouldn't - but its the only way I can learn ................. don't know any mechanics - I live in and RV and I work in IT - never had a truck before and was never interested. Could change oil and a tire was about it. I try to be careful - and not touch stuff I have no idea about - but between you guys and a couple of people I have bumped into managed to learn a bit ........ maybe just enough to get me in trouble. A lot of forums (various cars) were saying that if the refrigerant gets too low - the switch will turn compressor off so it won't get damaged. As such you can't fill it upwith the R134a stuff as compressor is not on. They said you needed to 'jump' the compressor for like 10 seconds to make sure the compressor is not shot and go from there. thats what I was trying to do ........ thx

Nice ! I think that all makes sense and I can go from there - you rock Yeah - I never know the technical term -> switch/sensor - plus I'm an aussie so sometimes that doesn't help SASQCH -> can you check out other post (only as its related to the jump wire - but this time I guess with 12V supply ?) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1610-a-c-airconditioning-compressor-not-engaging-warm-air specifically - wondering how I get a 12V signal to the switch on the compressor to see if it starts (or if its dead) ? Kinda of thereverse of what I had to do hear as this was just closing the circuit on the wire harness to test the light on the a/c I actually need to send 12V to the switch to see if it starts - two connectors in switch

thanks - yeah I probably will have to the main thing I wanted to try and check is if the whole A/C is dead (the compressor) So I was really hoping to see if I can get the compressor to kick on by jumping it - even if for only 10 seconds - so at least they don't try and sell me a $300 A/C unit install if its something simple. If I have to I will - I am not going to change the a/c myself. BUt a sensor/fuse - I could do that with some help - ha !! thx man ---------- Post added at 03:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:13 PM ---------- Really - I just thought that was from being a 10yr old truck She doens't seem to leak that bad (maybe a couple small drops each night) Not sure whats normal and even how you would fix that without removing the block and cleaning/detailing and checking for seals/wear etc