Dynamic

What was done to get the 5th friction and steel in there? A 47RE only comes with 4 of each... If the frictions and steels are thinner than stock, I strongly recommend against that kind of setup. I set mine up with 5 full thickness frictions, 4 of the thicker late model steels and 1 early thinner steel, but I do the required machine work to get them in there, and still have .090" clearance. I use a flat snap ring, also...not the wavy OEM snap ring.

Here's the rundown... A stock 47RE valve body is not capable of lockup until 2nd gear. The lockup valve in the lower VB is fed fluid by the intermediate apply circuit, therefore no fluid to achieve lockup until 2nd gear. A stock 47RE valve body WILL lockup (with an external switch) in 2nd gear in "D" range only. In MANUAL 2nd, a stock VB has lockup hydraulically locked out. Having said all that, locking the converter in 2nd gear in "D" range is not a good idea, because is has not hydraulically eliminated the possibility of a 2-3 shift like it has in manual 2nd, and a locked 2-3 shift is extremely hard on the gear train and input shaft! A stock 48RE valve body is capable of locking (again, with an external switch) in any gear, in any gearshift position. So what's a guy to do with a 47RE? The good news is, that they can be modified to act like a 48RE valve body (with respect to the lockup). Both mods are fairly simple to do, but unless they are done, it will act the same as stock. I build valve bodies a little kind of an a case-by-case basis, depending upon a customer's intended usage. A gas valve body (46RE) is left stock (as far as lockup goes) because they don't have the benefit of a beefy, multi-disc converter clutch like a diesel does, that is going to hang on at both high power settings and, more significantly, in low throttle, low line pressure situations; ie. descending a hill, locked up, with a heavy load. Mike (@Mopar1973Man), this is why yours won't lock in manual 2nd, or first gear. It's to keep your converter alive and happy... Diesel valve bodies are a different story. As anyone who has corresponded with me knows, I only run triple disc converters behind the Cummins. With that in mind, I add the capability to lock in manual 2nd to pretty much all diesel valve bodies, unless the customer expresses complete apathy for this feature. If they don't care, I'm good with leaving it alone. As far as first gear lockup, again, it's a fairly easy mod, but I take it with a bit of a cautious approach because it CAN BE a safety issue. If you forget to shut off your switch as you come to a stop, that big diesel is going to want to keep going...possibly into the Kia in front of you unless you catch yourself and correct it. With an unmodified 47RE, at least the converter will automatically disengage when you near a stop and the VB commands a 2-1 downshift. Matt (@Notlimah), I gave you both manual 2nd lock and first gear lock capability. In response to XC2's scenario, given a healthy cooler system (which I would suspect if you're running normal temps in all other aspects) first gear lockup would be the solution I would recommend. Although, I would investigate where your sender is located. It wouldn't surprise me if it was located in the hot line out of the transmission somewhere. It would be strange to get the entire system that hot, that fast. But, I suppose it is possible, depending upon how far you had to run it that hard up against converter stall. If you had the ability to pull the truck down into manual first (to lockout the possibility of any upshifts) and engage the converter lock switch, I think it would work well for you.

How did you set up the direct? How many discs? What brand of frictions and steels? What snap ring? What backing plate? How did it end up so tight?

Sorry, I've been busy... Not a lot of time to get on here. Yes, I was going to comment that .070" is too tight for the direct clutch. It will come on before the band releases fully, causing your tie-up. I run my directs at .090-.100", depending upon the number of discs in there, and my front bands at 1-3/4 turns out.

It's definitely possible to have a rattle in the converter, but it doesn't happen often. As long as all of the bolts are torqued to specs and you're still getting the noise, it's definitely a possibility. Both Goerend and DPC are top shelf converters. I use a bunch of both, and both stand behind their products like none other...

Yes... This is correct. One of the primary benefits of a cast aluminum pan, in addition to carrying extra fluid.

Could be a valve body issue, but it could be a problem with the intermediate band or servo. "Built" automatics should not shuttle shift anymore than a stock one should. I build 200+ transmissions and valve bodies every year, and none of them shuttle shift. ?

It depends upon the converter and the way the valve body is calibrated. I run triples in every Cummins application, and the vast majority of them are on stock input shafts.

What all has been done to your transmission and valve body?

Which solenoid are you looking for?

Easiest way to check an output speed sensor is to just screw a new one in there. They cost $10, and take 2 minutes to change. I still think you're chasing a governor pressure solenoid issue. If you don't have a Borg HD in there, put one in... The TV cable adjustment is not causing your issues, but you do need to verify that the WOT 1-2 shift is at 2800-2900 rpm.

If you solder the wires, which is fine, be sure to use heat shrink over the junction as a strain-relief.

That's a lot of AC voltage, but I'm not 100% sure that's your problem if you're having shuttle shifts. Again, what governor pressure solenoid was used in the build? It looks like a pretty generic "box build", so I would guess they used a stock replacement, if they replaced it at all. This, coupled with installing a "shift kit" (likely a Transgo), can flood a stock solenoid and cause all manner of weird shuttle shifts. Set the TV cable so that your WOT 1-2 shift occurs at 2800-2900 rpm. If it occurs earlier than that, tighten it. If it occurs later than that, loosen it. Set it to 2800-2900 rpm...done. I guess beyond these things, I'd need a bit more thorough description of what the symptoms are. Yes, a well-built 47RE will put up with a whole lot more than just oversized tires with 3.55 gears. Ideally, whenever a tire size is changed, your differential gearing should be changed to match. Pretty much only the most thorough of customers actually do this. But, there's a lot more to being well-built than just a "shift kit" and "HD clutches"... Stepping off of soap box, before I even get started.........!

My advice would be to send the Transgo stuff back and have someone build you a valve body. I am not at all a fan of Transgo kits, especially in the 4-speed Dodges.

Are you getting 3 distinct upshifts, and then TC lockup on top of that? If there was something wrong with the OD brake clutch, the PCM could be commanding a 3-4 upshift, but an actual upshift may not be occurring. You could be confusing the converter locking in 3rd gear (even though 4th had been commanded) for a 3-4 upshift.

What governor pressure solenoid was used during the build?

Yes, parts, even at my costs, are a significant chunk on these builds! Not everyone needs a billet input shaft, so I developed the "Stage 2" package (and its associated valve body calibrations) years ago to utilize the original input shaft, but still have the benefit of a triple disc converter. Billet shafts are never a bad plan, but not everyone has the $$$ for one, and if it's not necessary in a particular application, I don't make you buy one. But, then again, there are applications that simply necessitate a billet shaft, whether a guy has the money or not...! LOL

The "Stage 2" uses the OEM input shaft. The "Stage 3" uses a TCS billet input shaft.

I try...! LOL But between running the shop, building my rifles (another subject entirely...), and all of the other stuff I involve myself with, there's not a lot of time! I'm always available to answer questions, though if guys want to contact me...

Thanks, guys, for the kind words! I don't get a chance to get on here much anymore, but I thought I'd drop in and say "Hi"... Matt, it was great having you here, and I enjoyed meeting you and your family! It was a pleasure to build your transmission. I truly wish you could have spent more time in the shop with me, and seen a little bit more of the process. But, when you have a little guy to think of, that's more important. To answer a couple of questions that were asked: I do not drill any holes in the input shaft itself (you'd be hard-pressed to drill through it anyway...), but there is a modification to the hub that is made in order to cool the direct clutch, which tends to run pretty hot. As far as package pricing goes, there are quite a few variables that can swing prices one way or another, but on average, the "Stage 2" will run in the $3500 range (built, installed, with billet triple disc converter). The "Stage 3" will run in the $4500 range (again...built, installed, with triple disc converter). Matt chose to go with a Goerend 15SS converter and a Goerend flexplate (both excellent choices!), which added a little to the cost, plus some freight costs as well. Yes, I recommend monitoring the temperature of the fluid in the pan, regardless of the pan's size or depth.

What would you like to know about it? It cost a small fortune to build, but it was a fun project and it runs great. I'm still tweaking the tuning around a bit, but it's pretty close now. I don't know what your skill level and equipment is like, but I thoroughly blueprinted this engine, including a VERY tight quench. So, you'll need access to equipment to very accurately measure deck height and piston protrusion (out of the hole) if you want to exactly copy my build. I ended up at a little over 11:1 static compression ratio. You'll also need to be able to accurately degree whatever camshaft you use, and measure piston-to-valve clearance. Not doing this on a Hemi is really rolling the dice, especially if you use 6.1L valves like I did. Anyway, this engine has about 6K miles on it now. I broke it in on standard oil for the first 1000 miles, and then switched to Mobil 1 synthetic like I do on all of the engines that I build. I literally uses ZERO oil, so that's always nice... Jon

You're welcome. I'm glad I could help.

If it were mine, I would just leave the jumper in there and call it a day. Otherwise, you'll have to chase out why either the relay isn't being commanded on, or possibly whether or not the relay itself has failed. You could swap the transmission relay with the horn relay (assuming the horn works properly), and drive it again to see if it acts up again or continues to operate correctly. If it continues to work correctly, you had a bad relay.Buy a new one an...problem solved. If it acts up again, you have a PCM or alternator problem, in which case, I would just keep the jumper in the relay permanently and not worry about it.

It definitely sounds like you have an electrical problem of some sort. Try bypassing the transmission relay. Remove the relay and put a jumper wire in its place. This will eliminate the relay and all of its associated wiring. Take it for a test drive.

Only as it pertains to the Rotax 2-stroke engines. They used rotary valves in their snowmobile engines and a lot of their aircraft engine applications, I believe. They seemed to work fine, but I believe they have gone back to the more conventional reed valves in their sled engines...but don't quote me on that. I was never much of a Ski-Doo fan...! I'm more of a Polaris Pro and Arctic Cat M-chassis fan...and I've always run V-Force reeds in my sleds.