Dynamic

I'm not trying to bear bad news, that's just what it sounds like to me, based on your description. How many miles are on the transmission? As far as lasting another 300 mile trip, probably, but you never know...

Worn out direct clutch...excessive clearance due to worn clutch discs.

@Mopar1973Man Most likely a heavily worn direct clutch. Ironic that you ask that... Last weekend, the battery failed in my wife's '04 Durango. I was playing music at a gig, so my Dad ended up rescuing her. In the whole process, we ended up with my parent's '99 Durango (46RE) overnight. When I drove their Durango back to their house, I noticed that it was doing the exact same thing that you're describing. Under light throttle (low line pressure), it will upshift 1-2, then flare badly when the band is released for the 2-3 shift, waiting for the direct to come on. Under a little heavier throttle (more line pressure), the direct comes on quicker, and it's not quite as noticeable, but still there. I'll be building them a transmission pretty soon.

Of course...! I do what I can...

If I did, I apologize. I definitely WILL be a vendor, but just haven't done so yet... We're still adding products to the site, and have yet to get the shopping cart function in working order, but we're getting there. With this being the beginning of our crazy busy season, other things tend to come first, but I try to make at least some progress every day... DPC builds a good converter, as does Goerend. I also use a TON of converters from Cascade Converter, who builds an excellent converter as well.

Didn't want to violate any vendor/not-yet-a-vendor rules... LOL

Yes, we do have a website. It's a work in progress, but we finally have quite a bit of product on there now. I'll shoot you a PM with the URL...

Haha... Yeah, it seems like it at times! Luckily, I happen to really enjoy what I do, so it's all part of the fun... We're in the Spokane, WA area.

I'll keep you posted... It's the beginning of our busy season now that people are recovering from Christmas, so I haven't had as much time to devote to R&D as I'd like. I have a bunch of valve body stuff that I'm finishing up, too, so finding time to source manufacturers for all this stuff has been tough!

The GM conversion is no better than the Borg Warner HD, but it is 3x as expensive. The GM conversion uses a late-model 4L60E pressure control solenoid, which often become troublesome when they get up there in mileage.I build a lot of 4L60E's that are on my bench because of this solenoid... The BD kit (TCS also sells it) simply uses an early metal transducer (which tend to be a bit more robust) and supply a small harness that converts the wiring to work with the late-model PCM. I have never used one, so I don't know the specifics on their little wire harness. I use and highly recommend the Borg Warner HD and an OEM or Borg Warner transducer... Those are the ones... Decent price, too. We sell them for a couple of bucks cheaper, but this is a good price, too.

I'm actually working on a fix for this right now... What you're feeling is the transmission upshift to 3rd gear, lock the converter, then briefly unlock the converter for the shift to 4th, then relock the converter...all in rapid succession. This becomes much more exaggerated with a "built" transmission or valve body because with elevated line pressure, the 3-4 shift will generally occur before the converter fully unlocks. So, you'll feel the shift, then the converter unlock briefly, then re-lock. It gives a really weird feel to the 3-4 shift, but in reality, the transmission is just doing what it's programmed to do. I have a working prototype of the "fix" on my personal truck right now, and it works great. Really cleans up this 3-4 shift weirdness. It just keeps the converter from unlocking for the 3-4 shift (assuming that it was locked prior to the shift). I just need to find time to have more of them made...

Yes, you're referring to converter drain-back. The converter will drain back down to hub level when it sits for a while. This is a non-issue if the VB is modded correctly.

What was done to the valve body at the transmission shop?

Does it do it just going into forward gear? When it is acting up, will it engage reverse normally? What was done to the valve body at the transmission shop?

Yeah, you don't need a PTO to run a plow. Besides, a PTO pump off of the transfer case would only make hydraulic pressure when the truck was moving. Probably not ideal for snow plowing... If you had an application where you needed constant hydraulic pressure with the truck stationary, then I would think that a transfer case mounted PTO would be ideal.

Mike, is there a particular manufacturer of Cummins battery cables that you recommend? I was going to make a set for mine, but if they can be purchased reasonably, I'll do that.

Yes, you do... I know this for a fact...!

I will...

Well, I intend to use my HX35 with modded wastegate for a top turbo as well. While it would be nice to have any number of different turbos as the top turbo, I just can't justify buying two new turbos for a $12K truck that, technically, doesn't even need ANY new turbos. It runs just fine the way it is. I guess I'm just bored this Holiday Season, and all my other projects are at a standstill for one reason or another.

I appreciate the advice! I agree that there are many top turbos that would be better suited to a set of twins than the HX35...no question about that! But, buying a 2nd turbo would double the cost of a project like this and, quite honestly, I'm just not willing to invest the money. It would be fun and all, but at the end of the day, I just can't justify spending the money on this project...! And, yes, head studs are a given for a compound setup...

Thanks everyone for the help and advice! I think I'll probably go with an S475/83/1.10 for the bottom turbo, and the HX35 with the modded wastegate up top. I'll keep you posted!

Thanks! That's what I was figuring. I was also wondering about machining the divider down inside the housing and then enlarging the waste gate opening. I know that once waste gate pressure is reached, good flow out the gate is important to provide flow for the primary turbo.

Good point...! A smaller turbine on a 475 might make sense as well. Thanks for the info and experience!

No... No racing for the truck. I just tow with it and drive it around town. The only racing involvement it has is to tow the race car to the track... LOL I really don't have a specific goal for HP. If the S472 will support upper 500's, that's more than plenty for me. The main thing I want it a setup that's nice to drive, spools reasonably quick and makes around 50 psi of boost. I guess the S472 might be just the ticket...!

OK... So I have some down time for the Christmas season (intentionally scheduled). My plans are to go ahead with a twin turbo setup. The setup that I'm currently running is 100hp BD injectors (I'm not 100% sold on keeping these...I may go with 125's or 150's), Smarty S-03, FASS DDRP (no fuel pressure problems currently, but I plan on upgrading to a larger FASS), and I plan on, most likely, stacking an Edge with the new CTS2 with what I already have. So my question for those who have gone before me is this: Which bottom turbo should I go with? I plan on using the HX35 that I currently have as the top turbo. I want a fairly quick spooling setup, and I use my truck most often for just driving around, but I do tow with it once in a while...usually fairly heavy. It's not necessarily my daily driver, either, as I do have other cars. It has been recommended to me to go with an S472 with 83mm turbine and 1.10 housing. This seems a little on the small side if I go with larger injectors but, then again, so does the HX35 up top. I see a lot of guys going with an S475 with 96mm turbine and 1.32 housing. These seem to be fairly cheap, too. How should I mod the wastegate to work best with the compound setup. The turbo I have right now is currently unmodified... I really don't want to change the top turbo. In my opinion, that would price this project right out of the realm of feasibility. I can afford it, but at the end of the day, it's just a 2nd Gen 24V, and spending that much on a turbo setup just doesn't make sense. Opinions...?