notlimah

Looks good!

I feel like this is turning into my own blog! Anyways, in case anyone was wondering, turns out, YET AGAIN, it was the stupid check ball and spring. I pulled it out to check it and sure enough, this is what I found. if if you look close you can see the spring has pushed in over itself on the bottom, causing the lean. The ball is pressed so firmly into the spring that even falling over wouldn't cause it to fall out. I have no clue what's causing these things to fail on me so quickly. Like I mentioned before, FASS seems to think its air leaking somewhere causing higher cavitation (I say BS) but that doesn't add up. I replaced it with an Airdog 17psi spring and Viton rubber ball. I attempted to use the Airdog fitting as well but it seemed slightly too long and wouldn't snug so I kept with the FASS fitting, which has grooves where the spring seats. LEFT: FASS fitting, spring & buna ball RIGHT: Airdog fitting, spring & Viton ball So far pressures are exactly 18 after getting even slightly warm. PSI drops with rpm increase and drops when voltage is pulled from grids. I'll obviously keep you all posted on the longevity of this setup. All in all, pretty wild to think that spring and ball was causing something that seemed clearly electrical.

Sounds like a decent deal considering.

Ok guys have some questions. I'm seeing some odd ball things in regards to fuel pressure and grid heater and rpms. To explain the two... One, on start up, when grid heater is cycling you can see the voltage drop on the dash gauge but fuel pressure will go up. It'll idle right around 16psi and jump up to just shy of 18psi when voltage drops while the grid is on. Once up to running temp and grids aren't on, I don't see the jump, UNLESS, I get on the throttle a good bit. I typically putt around but if I get on it and get up to around 2000rpm, I noticed the fuel pressure would jump up to 18psi and as soon as I let off a bit it'd drop back down to 16ish. I checked voltage at the relay and all seems fine (14.1 and 12.5 with grid goin) What do you all think? Could this really just be a bad check ball? Leaky pickup tube in my fuel module?

Dude videos are always better then not videos!

Boy, lots going on, but you seem to be staying level headed which is really all you can do. Continuing with thoughts and prayers!

I've been waiting for this one to get released! I know what I'm catching up tomorrow!

Good to hear boss! Let us know if anything out of the ordinary pops up!

Will do!

Like this? https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/high-idle-switch/mopar1973mancom-high-idle-mpg-fooler-overhead-console-installation-in-2nd-gen-vp44-cummins-r416/

Vulcan, DFI, Haley Speed Innovations

Within limits is one thing, can't tell you how many times I've called the FE back to check out 'a leak' I've seen out my window haha

More so a joke then reality just because these planes and engines are well aged. Although certain things are allowed to leak more then others!

If it ain't leakin it shouldn't be flying!! T-56 life!

He has more posts over on CF. If you do a google search for "dynamic transmission cummins" you'll find a good amount of posts from people posting about getting their trans worked on.

Yea it's not cheap, but if should last a loooooong time.

I use loctite 545 for any fittings needing sealer.

I have the same gauge as well. I still haven't set up a dedicated place to plum in the test gauge though. I need to figure that out one of these days!

I can't remember where but I thought I remember reading that the smaller gauge line to the fuel pressure gauge is less likely to decrease overall fuel pressure in that system while still giving accurate pressure readings.

Sounds familiar eh @KATOOM!?

That doesn't sound right to me, especially ot of a quality injector but I'm not an expert in this area so hope other chime in.

Where'd you pull the info Nick? I had to start 'browsing' through most of that as it seems well above my pay grade!

Yup @dripley exactly! It's just the clamp that's attached to the rod that should be able to slide back and forth to adjust for movement of different dampers.

It shouldn't effect anything in regards to alignment. Only thing I can think of is making sure the adjustment slider is put in the right position.

That looks good Jon! I'd love to see the looks on peoples faces when you lay into it during a race!