notlimah

Straight from isspro's website Q. What are amplifier boxes and why are they used?A. ISSPRO Enhanced Visibility (EV1) Gauges achieve their brilliant lighting by removing all of the circuitry out of the gauge and housing it in a separate box called a circuit, or amplifier box. By doing so the lighting is able to completely shine on the back side of the entire dial. You will not see any dark areas like with some other brands. The amp. boxes come with a 3 foot long, 4 wire cable that gets connected to the gauge. A simple plug connector makes connecting the amp. box to the gauge a snap. The amp boxes measure approximately (2-1/4")W x (2-1/4")L x (1 to 1-1/2)"H Q. Will my gauges come with the required amplifier boxes? A. Yes. All gauges that require them come pre-packaged at the factory with the required amp. box. Voltmeter, Hourmeter, as well as all mechanical gauges, like boost and fuel pressure, obviously don't require them. Basically the pyro gauge isn't going to be mechanical. Guess it wouldn't make sense for 1400* to be going directly to a gauge in the cab right?! Haha

I can't imagine why not. If you're seeing normal numbers I'd say it's working fine, autometer probably just dies things different from isspro

I can't speak for the autometer gauges but for the isspro mechanical gauges require an amplifier fir the pyro gauge

I'm pretty sure it doesn't go to anything! Lol

I just resolved (I hope at least) this same problem. It was one of three things, the tune from a smarty I had loaded, banjo on back of the head SLIGHTLY loose (but didn't feel wet or anything), or my fuel pressure gauge (either fitting or gauge itself) was leaking air.

According to Mikes article on this... "Normal output of the alternator is 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC but when flipped over to AC Volts it should never rise above 0.1 volts AC. If it does then you found your AC noise source." So it looks like your literally on the cusp of being in and out of normal range, which would probably explain why this issue seems intermittent for you.

Yea I put the least amount of pressure on it as I could, believe me! That little bit of tightening that it did was under fairly little pressure. If I have the same issue come up I'll be looking at replacing the sealing washers for sure.

It's a 17mm. I was literally laying on top of the engine and slid the wrench through the left side while my right arm was warpped around to act as support. Mine turned maybe 1/32nd of a turn but that could be enough to leak. Also follow that same piping down to where it forms a T and check for leaks there. The he reaon your method is working is because unless it's a really bad air leak, 2 hours isn't enough time for the fuel system to loose it's prime. Hope you get it solved!

Mike could you send me all the setting that you used to set up your dashboard there? I'd like to get the same setup for mine!

It sounds like your checking in the right places, positive on the alternator and negative on the battery. As far as the multi-meter, not sure, I'm terrible with those as well. Usually ends with a call to my dad who works with this sort of stuff all the time lol.

Yea that's for sure! The only way I could even get a wrench on it was from the left side!

Do you just use the exhaust manifold off the appropriate truck and that's a bolt on for our trucks?

So other then the possibility of an EB not working, the 451 is a straight drop in??

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Alright well just wanted to update you guys on where I stand now with this. The problem is no longer present. I've been parking uphill in my driveway and been having normal cranking time, although I have found that my truck doesn't like starting cold. Even after letting the WTS go out it fires up with a quick hiccup and then smooths out and idles fine. Anyways, I did change out a few things I have to assume one of which fixed my problem. Of course I did it in the worst troubleshooting form and did them all pretty much at the same time so I can't pinpoint to what exactly it is. But I changed the following. Changed Smarty programming from catcher 3 to Fuel saver mode Replaced a bad ISSPRO fuel pressure gauge Tightened down the fitting at the back of the head by like a 1/32nd of a turn. Also, for those who haven't had to do this, prepare to get your Ethan Hunt on!

These definitely look like good options for when these current tires are at their end. Looking to downsize as well and they look like they have a decent amount of options.

AFAIK all idle inputs are sent via the ECM so if it's fluctuating, it leads me to believe it's something mechanical. -Dirty fuel filter -Injector issue -Outside air temp.

I couldn't tell you exactly what happens if you don't do it. I've done the same thing though and haven't run into any issues your stating. If your dropping in and out of TC lockup that usually means your alternator is putting out too much AC noise. It could also be your apps is on its way out.

What's the leak?

Sounds like less moving parts which should minimize the chance for leaks!

Yea Eric is really a great guy and always a good source of information! I'd say leave the fitting with pipe dope as well, although, if it were me and I had the time, I'd probably change them out hahah! Just something about knowing it's there would bug me, but if you can live with it, I'd say fix it if it ever becomes a problem. What did you end up getting?

Yea probably not open, it's just getting to be 7am here on the west coast!

Sorry to hear there's no change. After all the work you've put in it seems like something may be defective after all. As as far as Vulcan go, Eric is a stand up guy and the amount of times I've called has amounted to hours of phone conversations. With that being said though, he's a bit of a one stop shop and he does a lot. Most times when he's on the phone he's doing 3 other things. I've called plenty of times with no answer and he's called me back. This is the number I call (360) 263-6044 and he's always answered or called back.

What stock piping are you wanting to keep? Which strainer are you referring too? What year truck is this off and if the stock lift pump attached to the engine block? If you could take a pic of the top of the module and one looking down inside it might help a bit.

I was thinking of doing this soon as well. I've noticed that occasionally when coming to a stop I'll get a secondary stopping motion like somethings loose in the trans or front axle somewhere. I assumed it's probably just some bushing going back and adding some slop.