jordan

yes finally i can light my smokes under water lol

Found this vid a while back so here it is boys

hahaha first thing i always check when on my bike is what's behind me the one variable you don't really have a say about, check your blind spots after that and i might add AT ALL TIMES

as i usually do i was brain storming while working on my truck and had a idea pop into mind, what if you used hydrogen peroxide instead of methanol and water. consumer grade H2O2 comes in a 3% solution the other 97% is water. my theory with this, is that as with meth/water it should produce a denser charge of boost but unlike methanol, hydrogen peroxide is a oxidizer thus allowing more fuel to be introduced and burned fully in the cylinder. i would love to hear some input from the members on this. Remember this a theory and i HAVE NOT TESTED this yet so i would not recommend going to the store and dumping a bunch of hydrogen peroxide in your meth/water tank.

I will have to look into that, I'm sure with simple modifications (that are done properly) i could make something along those lines work. thanks for the advice, should have some pics to share with u guys soon as-well

I looked into that KTM oil it's $20 a quart and there's a local store who sells it about 10min away from my house, although that doesn't mean it's readily available. as soon as I'm no longer broke I'm going to give it a shot and she how she does!

that was actually the first thing i put on the truck when i bought it about 6weeks ago lol i kinked the hose when i was plumbing it threw the cab and it broke so i used a ton of shrink wrap and it held untell the oil seeped in and let it slide off I found the cause of all my problems as well it was the pcm that some genius decided to put in the 1/4 panel, and of course my wheel wells are rusted out and the silicon was all cracked and dried witch let moister corrode the PCB (printed circuit board) I'm not putting it back in, it's useless in my opinion considering i got my manual O/D now, so i get to start what i like to call "lawn mower wiring" no fancy circuits or auto bullsh!t. Everything is going to be manual or none existent. O and here is a pic of the dash in the truck

does anyone know a place to get a simple yet classy looking steering column, just need turn signals on it, no wipers or high beams or other messy lookin' stuff

I temporarily installed the dash today and i got the O/D problem fixed (manual activation), but now as always the little unforeseen problems have to get weeded out (mostly electrical) and i had a good scare today when my oil pressure line popped off and i didn't notice tell there was almost no oil left, only about 3/16" from the end of the dip stick i think the pump was still able to grab it from the pan though. if they made those stuped hoses so that they don't break when kinked that whole problem could have been avoided:mad: I'm getting newer better hose tomorrow!

Here are some more pics of the dash, if you guys have any questions on how i did something feel free to ask

i think i might just put a manual OD for the time being. As for the talent side of things this is my first time using auto body hammers although i have a very good feel for working metal. i can't wait to get her all finished up (haven't drove it in about 2 weeks now)

i got a place in my dash made so that i can have several hidden switches. out of sight from prowling eyes!

sorry about the lack of posts i've been pounding out that dash it's almost done just need to do the fine tuned details (wood, leather work) i put some pics up for your viewing pleasure. And if i understand this right i send a 12v signal to the trans positive side of that connector and it should go into OD right? or i can bypas the TPS with a 5k ohm resistor?

Hey guys just thought I'd let you know that KTM (the dirt bike company) makes a 100:1 premix oil for there bikes i haven't used it, but by the sounds of the label it should increase lubricity at low oil/fuel 's mixtures thus allowing a better burn. Probably be good for a diesel premix, i don't know what's in it though:shrug:

I would have to agree with that, it probably will be quicker to just rewire the whole thing. And i actually hate autos i wanted a standard but i only found 2 of these trucks in Ontario and both were autos Maybe once i get the cash together I'll drop a Mercedes 6 speed in her, i heard they make one that will bolt up. For now I'm going to just keep plugging away at this wiring, it's day two and i have a crap load of pics to go through and post for you guys, including the start of the dash:thumb1:

That reason is exactly why i want to be able to throw a switch and not just drive around everywhere stuck with it smoking when i step on the peddle.

Ya it's kinda strange, I'm thinking about unhooking the trans temp sensor and trying it like maybe see what happens:shrug:So i unhooked the sensor and it wouldn't shift into O.D at all cold or hot. I also started the rewiring process, I'm starting from the inside out, there is no longer a dash in my truck at the moment making a custom one as i type, most likely going to be covered in purple heart lilac. Also there will no longer be a radio, seeing as how i don't listen to music while i drive and more then 16 wires are used just for it's function.

Before starting voltage 12.2V just after starting voltage 14.1V (with no grid heater). If i floor it just before the engine has reached temp it will screw up (12.1V) and stay that way tell it cools down

Here's a link to the manufactures Contacts page http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/manufacture/manufacture.htm , click around and see what's available for your truck I hear you can get a lot of power out of propane or water/methanol kits as-well although i couldn't say since I've never used one. Regardless after market exhaust is a must!

There is no drained residual voltage, before start up there is 12.2V and during cold running operation there is 14.1V If i floor it and keep it pinned for about 3 sec just before it's at full temp it will get a voltage drop and stay there at about 12.1V

I assure you i will not be rolling coal every where i go. There is a time and place for everything, unfortunately not every one grasps this concept! And it would be my pleaser to post some video and pics for viewing after. I will also be keeping work logs, hopefully of install time, parts, price, and any hiccups along the way.

I unplugged the solenoid not the heavy Oil sensor lead heater relays the mess gage wire (this should isolate it) and (unplugged) (bypassed) the problem still occurred, it still only happens once it has reached temp? I'm intrigued by this, any thoughts on what it might be? (i think it has something to do with trans temp sensor)

I had the same thought today about the grid heater, I'm going to unhook it tomorrow. I also thought maybe it has something to do with trans temp sensor? maybe it's causing some sort of chain reaction that ends up tuning on the heater grid. I have a digital power inverter with voltage display and it stays at 12.1V when the voltage is down (exactly like when the heaters are on) I will keep you guys updated on the situation. We'll see what tomorrow brings! P.S. lighting, turn signal , and brake wiring is completed on the diagram working on engine and trans part now:thumb1:

So I went for a drive around town today and noticed something very strange about the O.D condition. The tac and volt meter only screw up once the engine reaches temp! untell then they are fine and if i turn the truck off and restart it 10min later it will be ok until it warms up again. it doesn't have to be at full temp for this to happen, only around half of operating temp! any ideas?

Thanks for those links you have no idea how much time you just saved me there are some very nice gauges too chose from as-well