Towrigdually

If I was in north Dakota again yea I’d leave it plugged in all night, Regardless of heat loss. But in Oklahoma I only do it 2-3 hrs before I go to work, with it being outside and leaving it plugged in all night it won’t keep the heat very well. I don’t think using it will kill the life span, maybe won’t heat as quick.

I use the DAP flavor myself, yet to have a problem or complaint. Ive installed industrial injection brand and they seemed good. I think the guy is still running them after 4-5 yrs

I have a heavy duty flasher relay in mine from Napa, I can get the park number for it later if that helps. Matches the stock one that failed and I don’t hear it clicking

I think it was power driven diesel that recently came out with a billet cover that accepts either vp or p-pump, even has the studs for the ecm if you want them. but I’ve resealed plenty of the stock tin ones with felpro or the Cummins gasket and they’ve been good for years. for the catch can I have one on my mud truck and I usually dump it. but I don’t see any reason you couldn’t dump it back in,as long as it isn’t milky or look terrible. for cam sensor I’d go with old rule of don’t fix what isn’t broke. As for the fuel pump, you can let it hang and act as a free seal and plate. Or buy/make a plate.

Bought mine barely running, Trashed interior and the fact I could only do 35 from Camp Pendleton to naval base San Diego sucked. Also bought it knowing I wanted a 1 ton for when I got out I could travel from north to south with the mud truck without issues. fast forward a few years it’s got 384k on it and has travelled coast to coast more than I can count with a trailer attached. Currently Makes the 5 day commute for work without issue, since the 318 in 95 1500 is done for at a hard life of 287k. going to be one of those vehicles that stay around till the frame rots in half. Just glad I had dumb luck and got lucky with the truck I picked up.

Pretty sure, been using some Lucas injector stuff I got for free. Haven’t used 2-stroke in about 3 months.

Mine looks blue down in Oklahoma,

I do like it, I had the original with 393k on it, changed it out and shifter was much tighter, but that may have been due to wear over its life. Either way I like it, and it took some time to get used to it because either the old was so worn out, or I wasn’t used to shifting the new way yet, I missed a few gears (mostly 3rd) the first few trips. If I had to guess the shifts probably got shorter by 1-2” from going through the gears at the handle. And I feel like reverse isn’t as far of a reach. Another plus is when I have a trailer on I don’t lose as much rpm between shifts, easier to float if your into that sorta thing.

Not gunna lie, I put in a new shifter from all state gear. Shifts like butter now compared to what it was, 3rd even grinds alil less. I also went short throw and it made the shifts considerably shorter. Won’t break any records, but it’s nice.

I ordered an Eaton from delcity when my no name amazon special kept tripping, they were also on sale at the time to. https://m.delcity.net/store/EATON-Hi-Amp-Marine-Breakers/p_823677.h_795462.r_IF1003?mkwid=&crid=410099918330&mp_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI86b0xdG57AIVAeWzCh2iVw2_EAQYAiABEgLiVPD_BwE

I run traction bars on both of my mud trucks, both still on leaf springs. The only reason I would want to put them on the dodge is when backing heavy trailers, the leafs seem to flex more in reverse under heavy loads or high torque input, Atleast in my experiences. I don’t think it would help much with the grabby clutch, i didn’t noticed any difference in my power wagon with the 4-speed after they where installed. seemed to help with the rear end bouncing if taking off in off-road conditions though, like if your stuck up to the frame.

Sounds like a case of if you can’t dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bs situations. I can say it sounds like he gets his money out of every vehicle he owns.

Anymore I’m there for sale groups, marketplace, and to laugh at family. I don’t see the point other than that. Finally a man of culture gets it, gotta bump them numbers up in the name of performance! Child’s play I’ve been told, might as well sell the truck

I figured a few on here would get a kick out of this. not affiliated with any of this, just wanted to spread the laughs.

Had this issue with my truck, glad someone else had this problem also and knew what to do for repair.

Was useful to see before getting into it, especially since I never torn one down before. Helped to reference when needed.

The first thing I did to my truck years ago when I purchased it and was new to diesels. Helped with a lot of unwanted mess!

The few times I’ve ran the overhead on the engine, I always reference this article to make sure I get it right. Great stuff as always.

I used new wire and crimped new ends, also used military style terminals. Noticed truck acted better after, always nice to upgrade old parts to new that actually make a difference.

Straight forward and easy to follow, cheap and easy protection from down time and an unwanted bill.

Great article, helps a lot to have torque specs and pictures.

Big help to have part number to help track part down instead of starting from scratch.

Well that complicates things. I guess filters will just stay then.

I thought the same thing since it was a sealed unit, and can’t say I’ve seen anything in the filter. But I haven’t had it set up this way for long. im not sure if the fuel filter Heater even works, but I do have the heater in the fass so Atleast I have that.

Fuel filter change is coming up, have the fass routed into the factory canister so I can keep the WIF light. can I use the canister without the filter since I already have the fass for filters? Anyone ever tried it?