WiscoRedkneck

Ya dash gauge shows good I'll test it with a hand gauge and see how the two compare

Sorry if this is in the wrong place but with 305k on the clock and the top end just being gone through and a new turbo install, I ask the question how long can we expect an oil pump to last? Mine is original to the best of my knowledge. It's a concern of mine only because certain items can't be allowed to fail without incurring copious amounts of extra money in damage to related parts (lift pump, turbo and so on) I am tempted just to replace it just because, but my old man has a point "let sleeping dogs lie" ie it has no signs of issue so why change it.....

It's only stored because I go off the grid for awhile and don't need any modern necessity such as cars, phone, electric, running water.... I work on campers mainly class A's so winter is slow I use up my paid vacation and bank it then go enjoy peace of mind for awhile

That would not be the case this body replaced the rotted out body, I like the idea. This one is from Texas and fully underlined with monster liner, this will be the first time it sees snow if it doesn't get stored again..... I work summer usually take winter off drive the Chevy beater truck to the UP and disappear for a few months.....

Other option is hide this in the truck 100 per year isn't bad http://www.findmespot.com/en/index.php?cid=109&utm_source=direct&utm_medium=website&utm_campaign=trace Then you get the pleasure of finding the punk

Keys flats are the most common pics are very hard to use on modern cars and trucks I have a master pick set and even getting a door newer than year 2000 with that set is next to impossible.... Based on Tfaoro statement about the windows I'd guess smash and grab meaning the lower dash and wiring will be ripped apart or the tumbler will be busted up... I'm a coach dealer chassis technician who has had to break into class As without causing damage (patience is a must)and also estimate theft damages inside all I can say is most still stealing cars/motorized anything are uneducated, unprofessional and most of all sloppy... I'm really hoping he finds his truck because these clowns sounded as sloppy as you can get. Unless I miss read who breaks two windows to get inside.....

The idea of the switch is to work with an alarm those together will render the thief dazed and confused and will leave before the owner finds him and has his way with the robber..... And if you want hide this bad boy in there it's 100 per year and it lowered my premium on my tools once it was added to my box https://www.rei.com/product/869419/spot-trace-gps-tracker?CAWELAID=120217890000792952&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15877485520&CATCI=aud-54816614184:pla-163136378200&cm_mmc=PLA_Google|404_11133|8694190001|2c50126c-a983-48b4-bd12-f714afcad99a|aud-54816614184:pla-163136378200&lsft=cm_mmc:PLA_Google_LIA|404_11133|8694190001|2c50126c-a983-48b4-bd12-f714afcad99a|aud-54816614184:pla-163136378200&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgJq-BRCFqcLW8_DU9agBEiQAz8Koh7SScF1Dm5_n04Lckn3N5vfd3x6F8wtWr_cz7BregR0aAhBS8P8HAQ

I have studied the book and and two wire run from under the distribution center into the cab hidden out of sight and under the carpet coming out by the back of the drivers inside seat frame and mount switch this will then be wired to cut the 12v constant to the starter relay fuse as needed. I haven't got far enough in but a similar switch will be wired up to the injection pump. I will start something else for this write up and will begin on Saturday or Sunday.

@Hawkez keys are easy earth magnet or wire tie that pig inside a boxed section of frame. Then you always have a spare and I don't think even you guys looking for it could find it in less than two hours.... And power interruption switches on starter relay or solenoid and fuel pump that's my goal I will have a detailed write up on my attempt and hopeful success, I can wire a class A coach so I think I handle this....

Sorry for your loss I feel your pain it was my father and I that restored the body of my truck and can not describe the level of anger I have for punks like this. I will keep my eyes peeled and I will contact my retired uncle in Colorado Springs he travels all over out there hiking and going to parks. As a notice to others in the forum pre emissions diesel trucks in good shape like ours are becoming the most stolen vehicle in the US. Straight from the investigators mouth that was trying to find my stolen roommates car. It's unknown why these are so popular among thieves. All I know is 4 friends trucks were stolen out this way (south east Wisconsin)3 Duramax's and a Cummins mine is getting an alarm next week and a fuel pump dead switch I will have a write up on the pump switch

Hahaha it always seems good in your head then reality comes and slaps you across the face.... Like putting an 01 2wd 1500 sport cab on a 99 4x4 2500 slt Laramie with cab lights.... in short cab lights became optional and my 4x4 shifter is now where the factory should have put it. With a few added benefits from my machinist (solid stainless shift knob)

That was when bench seats and column shifts were the way to go.... Back on point I have an 01 body harness here and a console with a broken light and an auto dimming mirror.... point is if your push button lights aren't bad you could mash the two together and get one good one I think The other head scratcher is I see TFaoro point about the plug in modules of the harness and I think I am missing a part of it take a look to the left of the light that black plug is the confusing part to the right goes across roof to third brake light. the worst part is I know this harness came out of truck with all the visor lights readouts and auto dimming mirror but can't find the plugs in this harness thats in the picture

Sorry for my miss information and thank you for the correction, it has been awhile since I had everything apart....

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the harness is the complete body harness and is the one that goes through the floor as well I put a 01 sport half ton cab on my 99 and there were quite a few quirks I ran into.... one thing I know for sure is if it says cal. It's not likely worth the time because you will need to replace the overhead module and computer and they are not cheap my sits up there turned off because at 270k cal. Came on then odo. Stopped then mpg and dte went all whacky by 300k mpg will sit at 22 for awhile then it will start going up steady to 99 then reset to zero and do nothing then a week later it'll read 22 again funny thing is my truck averages about 19.5 so it's never ever right. the functioning compartments on the other hand are a worth while change I bought a new one for that reason and if you're okay with a broken clip and light spring I have a extra assembly laying around here for the truck you're selling In short change the console leave the wiring behind

Hmm that's a bad day when you tear metal.... drivers side definitely needs a bushing kit but the passenger side is definitely not adjusted proper. I didn't know that the hinges were rebuildable, so I had a shop replace them 2 years ago that was done when the truck got repainted and the dash was out at the time.... That being said when it came back everything was good and now just the passenger side looks all whacky the door doesn't line up with the rocker, the fender, or the hood The striker was adjusted on the drivers side. That along with a bushing kit will take care of that. The passenger side though needs some work and I have not yet found a way to do this without removing the dash.... That's interesting first time I put a ruler on it.... 2-3mm off looks a lot worse than it sounds

I try to keep the hinges oiled with a light weight oil. It seems to work better than grease.... for me at least. Now I only about 30 percent of the time on improved roads, so fine dust and salt getting stuck in the grease seamed to make it worse... Regarding the hinges to cab mount I understand that it's adjustable but it's bolted from the inside of the cab going out I can reach the lower bolt but not the upper, if that makes sense, it's up in the dash it seams. As for pointing out the striker the more I look at it side to side is definitely not right drivers side hangs out past the rocker passenger side is inside the rocker.....

Yes I had the doors in perfect alignment 2 years ago now the drivers side upper hinge bushing is bad and partially disintegrated. then the passenger side just seemed to fall out of alignment the bushings are still tight. But the door closes hard and rubs paint off... I don't get this are the hinges bad already after 20k when the original ones lasted over 250k

Am I the only one with sagging front doors? I put new hinges in two years ago and they have drooped down again! This then rubs the paint off of my rocker panel causing rust. I now have spacers in the bottom drivers hinge to push the tail corner up lasted for awhile and now it still took paint off. the passenger side needs more significant repairs but I want to get some opinions first I'm trying to get pix the images were to big

Thank you for the compliment it's a 1999 QCSB Auto, 24 valve, bhaf, silverline 4" turbo back, gauges, 35/40 hybrid turbo, the T-case handle is reversed with a stainless knob (done due to extensive time off road this way 4x4 can be engaged with your pinky and quicker without removing eyes from trail) body is clean of all emblems and stickers. The truck has 305,000 on the clock and is on the third transmission, second body and second turbo. Cummins N power of Oak Crak did a top end reseal at 295k, when head was pulled they told me the motor and top end was in pristine condition and not in need of overhaul. The body is a 2001 1500 2wd sport cab from Texas and yes it's currently housing non sport headlights. It is completely underlined and painted inside and out in Toyota gloss army green. The first body rusted out/owned to many deer and one tree

If you buy moog find a good shop, I say this because my shop put 4 sets of sway bar end links on my truck in one year at no cost extra to me after the initial investment(full front end rebuild and style upgrade). I noticed a change in design as I kept breaking the endlinks... My hat is off to that shop and I'm grateful to have such great service, that being said I have about 110,000 miles on this front end rebuild and is beginning to show slop. I'm considering other options but aftermarket options have yet to prove their worth in my eyes....

What's up up guy's and gals wanted to say hi show you my truck and let you know I'm back and I'll try to not fall off the grid again Side note I can't find out how to load old pictures that I have on file so this one will do for now