WiscoRedkneck

We have a lot of swampy crap here that does numbers to our equipment. I try to take it easy but every so often I would lift a tire at very slow speed. Now if I was loaded and lifted the passenger front tire off the ground I would break that sway bar end link every time....

IIRC that is why we are discussing options for replacement due to his failed injector and subsequent following issues. I am by no means bashing anyone.... @hex0rz eager to hear how the new set pans out and thats through the vendor I was considering, I hope all goes well. If I get a set of rebuilt injectors should they be flow matched and pop tested? Then if a shop rebuilds them shouldn't they already be flow matched and pop tested, Vulcan VP injectors are they pop tested and flow matched? I only ask because for me to accomplish flow matching and pop testing would cost me a 3 hour drive and overpriced service that bills by the hour at 110 per hour

If I go with rv275s that is who I would buy from. After reading around a bit I'm getting the drift that their customer service is always on or above par.

That is why mine is in a rack on top of my topper... or if the topper comes off it rides in the bed of the truck....

Hahaha I share time in Bell Wisconsin with the second log camp in Carbury, North Dakota I'm leaving for ND on the 18th just for grins it -21 up there right now

@hex0rz I agree 100% I found alot of rv275 rebuilds and then aftermarket branded rv275s. Rv275s is what I will probably run but a friend told me to check out farmboydiesel, after talking with them on the phone those guys seam like a good group. Though I would like to hear opinions from you guys if you have any... Their rebuilds are very competitive pricing wise so I am mildly intrigued by that because if I can get two sets for the price of the most expensive new set then why not and have a second set on hand, hopefully they don't last just one year or so....

The above link I posted is also genuine oe from dealers. It's back stock and N.O.S parts when I get parts from them they are in MOPAR packages and come from different dealers throughout the country, every dealer has checked out so far.... The more information the better that's what we're here for.

you have about two weeks like like that then you can super glue the pieces to your finger on the second go round as I did. Then sitting there ticked off at my old mans shop he proceeds to walk over with the tablet and said "why you trying to fix it there fairly cheap considering the pain you are putting yourself through, here check this out" I look at the tablet and see this http://www.moparpartsdeals.com/auto-parts/1999/dodge/ram-2500/base-trim/5-9l-l6-diesel-engine/body-cat/overhead-console-scat/?part_number=sn96tl2aa Hope that helps.....

I planned on installing them myself, I'm probably going to get rv275s from Vulcan install them myself and call it a day....

@JAG1 my local shop wI'll rebuild Chevy and Ford but recommends only new for Dodge... Then I get told over 300k no new tubes no warranty ok I say I'll take tubes and rv275s. He then asks "are you installing these yourself" and I respond "yes" he responds well that will void warranty. So I'm now calling around to see about other options. Does that seam like poor service or is that pretty "a" typical? did I mention it would cost about 930 dollars installed?

First off I am by no means associated with any manufacture now that being said I am running a stock lift pump to hold me over until I get a fuel boss. what I found is, I already have a draw straw so that makes me different from you jorka, but IMHO if you have an aftermarket pump without a draw straw you are begging for problems. And last time I checked they sell a special draw straw for you in tank guys.... So you add the draw straw remove the in tank pump then add a stock block mount lift pump to the fuel boss or a cheap aftermarket electric running it through the stock filter/heater as a post filter set up, that way you have one of the most reliable set ups on the market. It's the most expensive route but imho if you are changing your fuel pump this is the only way to go. Some by these trucks for performance, I as many others bought it to work and be reliable. Not to mention air dog 650ish full kit Fuel boss 650 Ish plus 250 at the most for new pump and drawstraw OR 350 for just a raptor that will still need plumbing and most likely a drawstraw That's my 2 cents, I have heard of and personally failed electric pumps, I'm yet to hear of a fuel boss failure.

I am truly sorry to hear your issues, right now my stock injectors are still in with 316k on them. My fuel millage is down a little bit but the truck still runs great. I'm leary to open a can of worms but know I need injectors. DAP was on my list but I'm starting to reconsider. I have a local shop that I will contact, they sell industrial injection, new Bosch rv 275 and they also build their own, they have their own equipment, I'm kind of thinking this is the way to go. Still not sure on injectors brand or size. I hope you can find success or a high quality local shop that will sell you something or rebuild them then stand behind their product.

So after getting everything fixed I did a start up below zero plugged in with 15w-40 dino and it took about 15 seconds for oil pressure and one shut down and restart after 10 seconds of no pressure. 0 degree start no block heater with 5w40 synthetic got me pressure in 4 seconds... I will no longer run 15w40 dino in the winter and IMHO below 5 degrees for multiple days it is unwise to run dino oil BTW today is the first day of the week to see 0 degrees whaw-hoo we got a heat wave

Update, start up at 0 degrees with 5w-40 synthetic not plugged in with grid heaters fixed started 2ND try after cycling grids twice and I had oil pressure in 4 seconds 15w-40 dino is just not appropriate for our truck below 5 degrees IMHO, and 15 seconds for oil pressure is no good

in stock form you would probably make it, but from personal experience you would want to have sway bar disconnects. I installed them on mine when I snapped 4 end links in half in one summer working forestry roads, and I mean straight sheared the half inch rod off the knuckle. These trucks have stought off road cabibility and can very easily rip themselves apart in the right conditions off road. I have split u joints, end links and bent control arms, so wheel wisely. And IMHO good u joints, the right tire, sway bar disconnects and maybe after market adjustable control arms and that will get you everywhere you should go with these trucks

@LiveOak I will throw a scanner on the truck but I'm confident that the switch to 5w-40 synthetic will resolve all my issues with oil pressure. I have a magnet heater just never saw the need for it but I'm considering using it. @AH64ID glad to hear you figured it out and yes the right heaters work wonders, but once tanks gell that's all she wrote. My truck has two tank heaters one is 110v pad style, almost never used then I have the in tank artic fox which warms fuel with engine coolant. Once my truck hits operating temperature the tank slowly climbs to around 80 degrees varies based on ambient temperature and fuel level. I also have a shut off for it come summertime

-8 degree start up no grids been plugged in over night though. Pay attention to the check gauges light 15w-40w dino took nearly 15 seconds to build pressure... Cold start.mp4

Is the fuel treated with power service as well or just winter blended fuel? At those temps I have found that the fuel needs to be treated unless you have an article fox in tank heater or something along those lines.... Also take a water bottle and fill it with the fuel you have in the truck and set it on the porch if it's not gelled in the morning you are good. I choose fill up sites carefully, always treat my fuel and always keep the water bottle of fuel outside to monitor tank conditions. Best of luck and if the tank gelled up the factory heaters won't help you at all

-6 here I've been bouncing around getting the parents furnace fixed, without grids plus my cardboard winter front I have not needed to plug in the truck and it starts great but I know I can't let it sit more than 4 hours at this temp without plugging in. Also got some 5w-40 synthetic that will go in tomorrow Rotella I believe will update once done. Sounds like it's only going to get colder here.

Happy new year hope all is well. Update, I have found a few things, thanks for the pointers along the way. 1. Grid heater relays are fried, wiring was questionable at best. The relays shorted internally this melted post relay wiring and relays, pre relay wiring is corroded beyond repair. The grids have been removed, the relays were hitting 130f and above so I was fearful of other damage... I will have new relays on Friday, I will be installing and rewiring this weekend. The grid heaters themselves have not been tested, that will happen this weekend, as well I hope they are not damaged. 2. Batteries and most wiring tested out good and passed voltage drop test, not surprised FYI when I got stuck I had started 3 times and had over 2 minutes of total crank time when you add up all the attempts and the forced oil prime. 3. Block heater may be routed incorrect it comes out by my passenger front tire, but is working, tested this morning. 4. I found the cord I used that day works in the perfect position but a little jiggle and it breaks connection. I found this after using it today with my circle saw to cut lumber. So my two cents do yourself a favor, plug a hair dryer or electric appliance into the extension cord you intend use turn it on and shake the cord if the hair dryer or electric appliance stays on your good if not replace the end, heavily used cords will wear out internally. 5. Injectors, lash, and compression are not part of the current issue. I'm still south and this morning it was +4F truck fired off first try, only issue was oil pressure (read on) and no grids FYI. It will not be above +10F until Sunday. 6. Personally for me the 15w-40w dino oil has got to go even with the block heater after 6 seconds I shut down due to no oil pressure and restarted immediately I had pressure 4 seconds after that start.

Good to know, thanks, it makes me chuckle a bit thinking I live by the adage "let sleeping dogs lie" and for that reason alone is why I don't change parts until they break(sometime biting my butt for doing it), I know my truck starts better than a lot of others around here(in summer) and I haven't had a problem until now so the injector thought had never crossed my mind.

This is what I tend to do and as long as it's above 10 degrees ambient once the truck is fully warmed up, I usually can start easily without even waiting for grids for 6 hours past shut down. It will need to sit for at least 10 hours before I think about plugging back in. Now for your information when Cummins went through the top end and installed the turbo they informed me that I had stock injectors still in the truck, meaning my current injectors likely have 315,000 miles on them. Do you think I could have issues there as well besides the grid heaters and block heater? I plan on messing with the block heater more tomorrow found nothing conclusive yet.

Thanks for the replys and I see at least 2 weeks below 5 degrees. My thoughts were this switch to synthetic and increase change interval and then need to plug in less. That's a big deal to me since where I see those temps are up north at the logging camp and power is had by a generator so plugging in isn't just that up there....

So if you look in our books no where does it recommend 5w-40 but it also say 10w-30 if you are below about 32, and 15w-40 is not recommended below 5 degrees, so My question is this for a truck with higher milage that it always loaded day in and day out (no less than 500lbs in the bed ever) often pulling a trailer. The truck sees -30 to plus 45 during the winter months alone. What do I use I have been told all you can use in a 24valve 5.9 is 15w-40 but then have been told that I should run 5w-40 in winter but amsoil and dodge/cummins don't list that weight as recommended. What would you guys recommend? Sorry to beat a dead horse....

Did you make sure there is no damage to back side where the wires go in to make the actual plug? Crank sensor was doing the exact same thing to me in the rain when looking at it nothing seams wrong but with a bright flashlight from either side of the plug deep inside you should be able to see green dust or a white gray if so replace the connector.