WiscoRedkneck

Does it act like it double shifts ever? If so I'm kinda with Mike and check the TV cable my brand new trans started acting funny literally last week, do to warranty I took it right to the shop. They found my return spring had broke on the tv cable. Symptoms it fixed random unlocking of converter over 60mph Heavy black smoke from stop, never seen it this bad sorta smoke Double shift in 1st Random shutters at 55mph and above Hope this helps

I think this was a culmination of variables and over stressing the truck during the recovery of the heavy equipment. We pulled a log truck out with the assistance of another log truck we did that in 4lo 4hi On our way out we swerved for a deer and clipped a stump and the deer drove it home vac pump leaking power steering going in and out

Found the missing chunk of gear in the bottom of the timing case how it got there is anyone's guess I figured it got chewed up.... Got to fix all my oil leaks up front. Fired up the truck mind you this is the first time Daryl has heard the truck run within two seconds he tells me to shut it off and tells me I likely have loose torque converter bolts or they're broken completely off. Pulled the transmission and found two bolts came loose and broke the ears off the torque converter and the remaining had elongated the flexplate holes this caused some damage to the bell housing. I will get more pictures later the one below is the damaged bell housing. Transmission is being rebuilt as I speak including new flexplate and torque converter. So hopefully by Wednesday after almost 3 weeks I will have the truck back running right again

No it was not, it started as a drive line vibration, it would come and go. Now it's knocking and squeaking and won't quit. We towed it to a good friend who runs a shop, the initial diagnosis is believe it or not a killer dowel pin issue he's in the process of removing the timing cover to find out for sure but apparently it happens to a handful of newer trucks. His house needs an addition so I guess my company will be building an addition with a discount

It's knocking and squealing from the front drivers corner of the engine it's also running rough/ whole truck shakes. I brought it home on a flatbed Friday and currently since I'm so far behind schedule with work I own my own company that I rented another truck to work this week and try and figure out what I'm doing with this thing.

I don't know if any metal is causing issues I know I changed the oil and it appears clean and free of metal. I do know something else besides the pump is wrong though, my reason for thinking this is when I tried to start the truck this morning it was very difficult to start it was only 30f out so it should have started right away. I'm starting to wonder is it possible that I damaged the injection pump when the vacuum pump failed

Tried bleeding the system again this morning started it still rattling knocking and squeaking going to have it towed to a shop and see what they say unless someone else has an idea

So I started the truck and it foamed the fluid and started rattling right away. Shut off 40 to the left and right still rattling/ knocking don't know what else to do besides take it to a shop or get rid of it. Unless I have another bad pump which I doubt I even drove the thing foaming fluid no luck

@Junkman I was not able to rebuild this pump due to the fact that a bearing failed causing the pumps piston to actually grind the head of the vacuum pump. When you split the two halfs the one rear half that has the power steering pump mounting brackets on it was grooved and gouged. At this point I towed the truck home and pushed it in the garage with the tractor drained the fluid out pulled the power steering and vacuum pump assembly back off. The power steering pump suffered failure most likely due to incorrect fluid it has lots of slop in the drive cogs shaft. The vacuum pump appeared to be okay but was an earlier style pump nipple straight out the side versus having the manifold then nipple, even though they should interchange and have the same teeth count I exchanged that pump for the correct pump as well. I have flushed the system to the best of my ability and it is no longer red in color it is amber. Currently my problem is air trapped in the system I have tried everything going left right left right left right 40 times per the book instructions for bleeding. I even tried pulling the pressure line off the pump and applying fluid pressure from a pressure bleeder to that and I'm still bubbling the fluid and the reservoir is not staying even fluid level wise. Still haven't started this truck since I brought it home and quite frankly I'm afraid to.....

Sounds good just got home and read my book and it says explicitly not to use ATF+4 I will start by removing ATF and flush. do you think it is it likely the ATF is foaming therefore causing the knocking, or did I damage the new parts?

@Dieselfuture I find it very hard to believe it's the engine but couldn't spend any more time with the truck. What we know, There was a bolt and bracket in the way preventing proper seating once removed it dropped right in. We bled the system per books instructions, also cranked over engine with breaker bar and listened and felt for issues nothing to be found. Drained engine oil filled with new replaced filter as well. First start it started a rattling noise shut down checked fluids topped off both engine and pump restart noise is a little quieter and it changes/goes away under throttle shut down again. Power steering fluid used was ATF+4 per auto store recommendation. Fluid when I left the truck was foamy and the engine oil was clear Amber no shiny crap. The metal came from the vacuum pump to power steering pump drive cog as well as the vacuum pump where the Piston was rubbing the power steering pump bracket/ vacuum pump tail shaft assembly. I will be back by the truck in a few days to tow it home, I will get some pictures then, should help explain my discoveries The one dumb thought that I'm having is I know the truck is due for injectors and was missing at idle very random and intermittent before this repair and I am wondering if an injector failed causing the knocking sound and the knocking was not actually from the power steering/vacuum pump yet the power steering and vacuum pump was still bad. The truck doesn't run smooth and blows alot of black gray smoke at start up.

Got it back together engine still knocking engine is done I think do I fix it or part it out. Heading south without the truck don't know what to do with it yet, but I'm going to have to go and buy a replacement since we couldn't fix it

Ok, so long short I'm at a friend's right now so certain things are limited. What happened- hit a deer at 50 top of hill ran it over lost control hit a tree stump and broke the steering gear. Limped it back to camp caught a ride into town got parts returned and replaced gear. Bled system got it into town had it aligned, got cold hard steering at start up next day ran to store made it half way back when the truck started clunking from the power steering pump, pulled over and at idle the thing was shaking itself apart. Shut down towed back to friend's. Now we tear the thing apart and find the power steering pump failed and took out the vacuum pump the vacuum pump sent small shiny crap into oil I think metal oil lab will get drained oil when I get home for inspection. So where we are at now is we have a new vacuum and power steering pump we have been trying to align the vacuum pump with the power steering pump attached to the timing gear and this thing just won't seat. We have destroyed two gaskets and are down to our third and final shot before I have to abandon the truck for a little while. Whathave you guys found with past experience is the best way to align this thing?

Good to know I redid all my cables recently and thought I was doing a good thing by putting a bigger alternator in there now I am thinking I wasted my money at least I bought the cheap one... I'm sure after 340k miles the alternator was toasted anyways. BTW great information thanks

@W-T after reading what is the difference between the company 270 from DC compared to the XP 250 from Nations? Besides the obvious 20 amp output difference. Oh you didn't like the 3 grounds on the passenger side that when I did my upgrade I streamlined it a bit. I opted out of removing the positive from the alternator because I gathered that to also be the PCM voltage regulator signal wire am I wrong how will the DC power be regulated? I added extra charge wire with new fuse to handle extra output Also I forgot to mention check your engine grounds the block is painted and the bolted the ground and lug to the painted surface of my block, I cleaned to bare metal installed star washer bolt and grease on top, same for chassis ground on frame rail the bolt in there is likely to be completely coated in rust.... Good point on alternator bracket that explains why my added ground on the bracket is getting some corrosion

@Dieselfuture if l understand my old man correct ( the engineer) you would tend to be correct as the batteries act almost as filters as ac voltage gets shunted to ground through the battery, now even if that's correct it still means there's a strong chance of AC noise so no issue is resolved. Just hidden maybe as Mike would say, but then again I could just be totally wrong and misunderstanding the engineer

The only ground that was technically added was the one from the battery to the alternator mount, that was added per Nations installation instructions. The charge line goes back into a harness so I added a charge line into a fusible link(after discussion in a different thread the fuse was added) directly to the positive of the passenger battery that was also a Nation's installation requirement. I went with the bigger alternator and all new parts thinking that all was going to be good now I just have to go measure the darn thing to make sure that I'm not causing more harm than good I will update shortly Ok so idle headlights radio HVAC off VAC measured from charging stud passenger negative bounced from .001-.002 VAC headlights on HVAC on high and radio on volume set around normal cruising level .005-.1 I'm not an electrical genius but that seems fairly good but based on what is said about increased ripple on high output alternators I was almost expecting to see higher numbers. BTW this is Nations 180 amp unit

When I overhaul I changed my ground setups on everything I have a ground wire going from my alternator bracket to my passenger battery that cable is 1/0 the two engine grounds to battery are 2/0 as well as the chassis ground is also 2/0 the body to battery ground is 4 gauge both sides. The one thing you have to remember to is the main ground that connects your batteries to the chassis is behind the front bumper in front of the driver's tire on the outside of the frame rail, that connection must be clean and non corroded and always covered with some sort of Dielectric grease oil WD-40 something to prevent corrosion and to keep a good ground to the chassis when I found out on my truck during the overhaul I shook my head and said really Dodge you couldn't have come up with a better location......

Sounds right to me, also doesn't sound good for your alternator. After an overhaul of my electrical system at 341,000 miles including larger wiring and bigger alternator(Nation's, still need to test now I'm curious) I noticed an improvement in headlight issues but not resolved I will say running at high idle it's almost unnoticeable. Now since I have done the repair I try to only let the truck sit on high idle if it's going to stay running. I can vary my high idle speed and it's set for 1100 RPM right now will that be sufficient spin speed to cool the alternator? The truck only idles in the morning for 10 minutes and/or if we're picking up materials or a trailer

@01cummins4ever I've recently started using a product called fluid film it's a lanolin based lubricant/ corrosion protection since it's good enough for the Navy and the first item on recommend uses is battery connections I figured it must be be perfect..

Yes it was expensive but considering the transmission hunting is fixed I'd say the alternator actually was bad even though it didn't show on meter, now I have an extra deep cycle battery going back into the camper since I stole it when one of two batteries went bad awhile back. Before this repair I new the remaining old battery was questionable and I was advised to match batteries so I did. The battery cables well there could have been a cheeper repair but I would have only considered that a band aid as I did have pretty bad voltage drop through the starter cable and terminal ends. So about 200 dollar upgrade the rest was needed unfortunately... But in the long run totally worth it no questions asked. That's almost exactly what I noticed the fine wire was absorbing the heat far better than the terminal end

New fusible link assembly will arrive tomorrow, ran the numbers looked everything over all total not including batteries and alternator I have $243 in wiring fusible link and terminal ends. After looking into it I could probably build a kit for under 300 that's including wiring and fusible link for a upgraded alternator. If I recall correctly it was just under $300 to the door for the alternator and $270 for batteries

That there is the fusible link that I plan to use to protect the charge line to the battery 200 amp any thoughts before I order it up

Good thought instructions didn't say anything about that but I like the idea

I agree with this one hundred percent the only exception to this is in my case the LarryB style tinned terminal ends did not accept solder very well, I believe I couldn't get it hot enough without causing damage to the insulation to get the terminal to accept solder it just kept wicking up the copper. so do to being short I purchased locally some copper ends that were crimped and soldered theese took solder very well so it truly depends on what you are working with The first picture here is of the upgraded chassis ground that goes directly from the frame to the battery then you have the upgraded charge line and ground wire off the alternator bracket to the negative on the passenger side battery and then off the power stud on the alternator to the positive the passenger side battery ran out of red cable so the passenger side charge line is black Last picture just gives you a little better shot of the alternator and the back of it