WiscoRedkneck

So my old thermocouple is stuck do you guys think heating with a torch will damage it as long as I don't burn the wires?

Replacing my manifold and was curious what you guys think is the best place to run a pyro if you are only using one. I was running a single pre turbo but debating adding a second or relocating my single. I know this horse has beaten a lot but I couldn't seam to find a good thread on it here. Does post only give you a better actual turbo temperature and that's it or are there other benefits to post turbo probes?

Tensioner holding still? Or bouncing at idle, I just fixed this issue new tensioner and gates belt. You say A/C has low miles is it rebuilt or new? Possible clutch shifted if it's rebuilt

Dead spot in motor or bad ground maybe? I know you said new starter at the beginning of the post but, is that new or refurbished/rebuilt?

From 97 until 01 these trucks could be anything... Mine was a shelf cleaning truck, old style dash with rest of interior being new style with quad cab and 24 valve. Then when checking the motor stamp my motor comes back as a 97 but it's a 24 valve figure that one out...

I have an aftermarket slider because of your issues and to make you laugh there is only one glass shop around here that will work on the back window of a second gen ram... oh and yes it does stick out about a quarter of an inch but with my topper you'd never know not to mention it was switched to a large one piece window in stead of two halfs

Be careful with the patch panel some are thin and won't last ask your body man if he has something he prefers. These trucks rot from the inside out so make sure the metal is good before putting on Linex otherwise it's a waste of time....

Make sure to get hinges as well, should save some headaches. The dash needs to be partially removed to change front door hinges, Compatibility is as follows 96-02 2500 and 3500 96-2000 1500 All extended (no rear doors) and regular cab front doors interchange. Any quad cab doors interchange If the truck sees mud gravel sand or salt remove the rubber door wipe on the bottom of the door and carry a throwaway rag in the truck, that way whenever it rains or snows you wet that rag and wipe out the door sill and hinge crevices. Carry a thing of wd40 or something like that and spray out weep holes once a month getting inside the door as well, hit hinges and latches also. My driver rear quad door locked up all the time until I started this routine. Right now I have 320k on the truck and it gets compliments on how clean it is once a week and often have to close their mouth when I tell them how many miles are on the truck

When I get home I will review the Mopar master book for my truck but those wiring diagrams seam slightly incorrect. Your wiring has a bulk head connector at the firewall correct? If so that is where the dash module meets the engine module. Some manufacturers made one size fits all modules and dead headed stuff not in use. Dodge is a toss up if your engine module had been dead headed all the wires would be there already and you would throw plugs on then a terminal in the fuse block with relays and you're done.... but I am yet to see that be the case on these trucks so I am eager to see if you have success. Perfect example I frame offed the 99 it was an slt Laramie the doner I picked up was an 01 1500 2wd sport. None of the wiring was interchangeable all of my cab and door harness wiring had to be swapped trust me I found out the hard way swapped dash left door wiring, well guess what no windows door locks or speakers. It took two techs and myself a whole week trying to figure what was wrong then find out which harness section came from what truck and then put it back together.

In short these trucks electric system is modulated and the sport dash module is different from yours as well as the under hood module the best you can do is hide your conversion

I'm sorry it's been a busy day. Holt electric supply is a local supply house that I was able to acquire everything from. As for the fuse panel I'm a bit confused because I had a second fuse box mounted to my under hood box with relays mounted to that. That whole unit had a main fuse and a second power feed. Since the work truck broke down the frame off of the Cummins was rushed back into service so things haven't been fully reinstalled . I'm living in the dark ages with led fog lights to make up for single bulb headlamps, hence why I'm so curious how you like your new fixtures as I will be buying a pair in the next week Good news is got a new used work truck so old green goes back in to my shop for the next 7-10k worth of fun

It's simple take power from your engine compartment fuse panel supply or add a second then add the relays to the side of the fuse block and follow factory looms... I can wire a vehicle to be flat towed and even when you take the rear taillights out its hard to tell the modifications I have made. its tedious doing it right but totally worth it in the end. My truck appears completely stock besides gauges bhaf and exhaust but can still out run some* 5.0 mustangs. For example I have more than one kill switch a 1500 watt inverter and several emergency radios along with the stereo amp all getting power directly from battery 12v+ and yes I have a second 10 fuse panel mounted along with relays to my existing box but it still appears stock under hood...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NXD0FC/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_263_of_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WCMDK74GKG8GKPZ191NK I have access to an instruction sheet drafted by the designer of the relay harness system all the parts are easy and cheap to source. Contact me if you want me to find a way to get it to you it's about ten pages very specific with wiring diagrams and all.

http://dieselautopower.com/bosch-cross-over-fuel-connector-tube-set-of-6-f00zr20002x6/ For 150 it's cheap insurance to make sure that Teflon doesn't cause damage

No don't do that the smallest piece coming off can cause more problems then you have now. Your signature says you have over 200k please someone correct me if I'm wrong but if you have done injectors once already with that milage you should replace the tubes. I have 317k and expect to replace tubes after hearing about leaking issues from a lot of people. The shop near me wouldn't even do injectors with that milage without doing tubes as well. Sorry I don't have a better answer

I am modified and only worry about my 47re motor never crosses my mind. well sorry trans and the fuel pressure gauge.....

Correct IMHO it's how you take care of them most failures were from hot rodding early or hard work early without warm up on a unbroken engine. After 150k the failures seem to stop... I feel that the engine has finally broken in and everything seated and moves happily. No fresh engine has seated rings beat her up early and you risk hot spots and stress points. I know of 4 farmers with 53s that use them as work trucks never a hiccup some have 400k and above on the motors

Texas to find a doner and do this

317k on my 53 no issues treat her right love her tenderly and she won't let you down. I'm a volunteer F.F./EMS as well as my regular job which finds this truck pulling 15-20k my 53 gets beat bad. the picture was my level of dedication to my 53 and 99 cummins

Nice work, looks just like the brand new one I got sitting under my mud room bench, took a look at how the old one broke and decided against installing the new one. Mine unwound on me part way before jamming again in travel, that was a interesting walk around when getting fuel, oh look my spare is now two inches off the ground.... now that bell and cable just dangles under my truck and looks like a pair swinging in the breeze...

Hmm sounds like you have damaged wiring those can be painful, do you have a multimeter? You need to find all the damaged wires and replace with new of the correct gauge using heat shrink splices or similar water proof connection. It's tedious but can be fairly cheap to repair yourself

How do I test the high bandwidth emergency radios? I totally agree with you on the canoe analogy.

The transmission shop installed the filter so I would have to find out what it is and what it's all protecting, never thought much about it since it seams to be working...

I don't believe it's the alternator for me at least... it was new when the truck got put back on the road. I do have light controllers for emergency lighting, pure sine wave inverter and technically 4 radios counting truck stereo. Get my dual band in April so I can remove one.

I know rf interference can cause issues with the apps sensor and the TC hopefully the alternator fixes it. After my transmission got rebuilt randomly one day I had horrible issues took it in, the shop added a ground on the apps sensor and reflashed the pcm. Then it happened again and they installed a rf kit on the truck. apparently it also has something to do with the premature failure of the 47re referring to the excessive locking and unlocking of the TC...