015point9

Re-doing my fuel line I kept messing up the push lock fitting when trying to remove the old hose. Neighbor who is long time mechanic showed me how he carefully removes the hose by melting it with the soldering gun. Using the tip, just slide it up melting the hose toward the plastic ring. Stop before melting the plastic ring. If old hose doesn’t fall off, use pliers and peel to separate. (Probably old hat but 1st I’ve seen it)

Don't get one of these. "One of Amazon's top-selling electronic gun safes contains a critical vulnerability that allows it to be opened by virtually anyone, even when they don't know the password". https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2017/12/top-selling-handgun-safe-can-be-remotely-opened-in-seconds-no-pin-needed/

He drilled one. BUT check with other people because... He drilled one and got looking inside and saw my problem. The straw which was corrugated plastic was also being used to keep module separated. Most have springs used as tension springs, mine had no springs. My straw was being used sort of like a pogo stick to keep tension between top and bottom. But heck it worked without any problems over 11 years and 60k miles. I ended up buying a new one and don’t remember how many hole(s) in new one. (He was real busy and had to get to airport for a pick up and his phone kept ringing). Might not be bad idea to have hole pointing forward and aft when on hills and 1/8 tank issues? I tried to find a pic showing hole(s) with no luck. Did find this link below that has some directions starting on page 3 about converting module from OEM to what most people prefer for larger fuel line use. http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/performance_images/airdog/fuel-module-install.pdf

Service manual says "Rollover valve" (however mine does not look like pic in manual). FUEL DELIVERY - DIESEL page 14 - 79

From what I've read, thing not connected at top works as vent on diesel and on gas line goes to charcoal filter. I put filter on mine to keep dirt out. Filter was cheap ace hardware lawn mower filter. I'm long from expert though.

So how much do people think a 8 ft weighs?

OP here....Not going to post in classifieds. I'm just going to toss everything in trash. Reason...I wouldn't want anybody else to deal with what I went thru on my fuel system. I was thinking that if anybody wanted anything to just donate to the site to keep it going and paying shipping. But in the back of my mind if the parts are damaged and aren't right for me, why would anybody else want to mess with them. Here are other reasons. FASS sump...1st there are better designs than FASS. While 10 screws looks like a stronger design, it only takes one screw not holding right and you have a fuel leak. 2nd to me sumps are like re-cap tires...never quite know when something might happen. Not slamming them, just saying I won't use one again. Fuel tank...I wouldn't feel safe with a patched tank and shipping probably would be more than its worth. FASS draw straw with bent nipple. Not worth the time messing with. Thanks for all the input and replies.

With 2 wheel drive & stock wheels and not to much fat around belly... I wished I had help taking off bed. Tight fit getting back under with tank resting on belly and getting into place to hook up tank straps.

OP here...I'm installing fuel pressure gauge along with test port & needle valve and low pressure buzzer alarm (to sound off at 12 psi) closer to vp44. Currently using the built in port on airdog for fuel pressure sensor. Where I live winters are not below low teens. But have heard filters can freeze up in cold country. Was wondering if fuel temp might be handy to know.

Any advantages to knowing what your fuel temp is? If so, where is best spot to install sensor? Thanks

I think every RV does or should have atleast one. Just a heads up... Fire extinguister recall. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2017/kidde-recalls-fire-extinguishers-with-plastic-handles-due-to-failure-to-discharge-and#

Op here... While I do agree with above posters. I just hate to needlessly being separated from my money. Apparently I'm pretty good at that. I'll post the parts in your classified's later this week or next week depending... I'm going to call the GB weld lady's. They've heard about everything. Going to find out what they think about draw straw fitting (gluing plastic tube to alum fitting). If fixable, going to look into a back up pump for small gas powered class C motorhome. That would leave the sump and fuel module.

I have a few left over parts from the fuel tank area after a “mechanic fixed ” my fuel system. Maybe I should just throw the parts in the garbage? but then again maybe someday might come in handy for me or for somebody else. Fuel module… The straw was actually the thing creating tension to keep it expanded inside the tank. Vulcan Diesel tried to fix and drilled out basket. Didn’t work so well, so I bought a new one. I was going to install some springs to create tension. ***Question…How much tension do you think is good? Maybe 3 pounds, 5 pounds? FASS drawstraw… Where the plastic pipe slides onto the nipple inside of tank is sucking air. Mechanic used pliers on the nipple to tighten the nut. Now nipple is egg shaped, out of round. ***Question…How to fix or what type of glue to make nipple air tight again? Fuel tank… Mechanic then said he has to install a sump. Of course it leaked and hose hung down to close to road. I finally found a used tank and put it in. ***Question… Can I get some plastic and glue on a patch to cover the hole that was drilled out? Any ideas or just throw parts out? I do know it take over $450.00 to replace what got messed up and hate to throw them away. And a good lesson to me about choosing a mechanic, maybe I should consider the money tuition? Your thoughts....Thanks

When Vulcan drilled my old one...harbor freight step drill. About 3 inches from bottom. .42 inches on calipers. Top was already had bulkhead fitting in it.

There is also a lot of videos on what ever you choose.

When my fuel system fell apart, because of mechanic I ended up with a draw straw as mentioned in my above post. Here is link to what they are. https://www.amazon.com/Fass-1989-2012-1999-2012-Powerstroke-2001-2012/dp/B009SCRBDU and I also ended up with a "sump" and here the link to it. https://www.amazon.com/Fass-STK-5500BO-FASS-Sump-Kit/dp/B009LNFFSE The mechanic did a bad job and had to re-do it when I got home. This site help me a lot. There is lots of info and help available that I'm thankful for. Here is why I would not install a sump or draw straw. Sump... You say you have 2x4. So is mine. I would never do a sump again for several reasons. One of which is with a 2x4 the fuel hose hangs down and very easy for road debris to do damage the sump then maybe fuel leak. Which mine did and had to wrap diapers around it held on with bailing wire to get home from Yuma to Seattle. And some say a sump is even illegal, which is another debate. Draw straw... Lots of people end up with a draw straw. Some people have problems when fuel gets low if not installed exactly right. It stops sucking fuel when fuel level gets below the tip of draw straw. With me it is when wife stops at our mail box that is on a hill and if fuel is low, starts sucking air. Gauges don't last forever, so you could end up having to drop the tank just to get to the gauge anyways. So I went with modifying existing fuel module. Another option that I hear is good... but I don't know much about them at the time is http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=FB-98502 Many people like them. I also have a " back up" pump. A Carter pump is under my back seat. (Add another $80-100). If my lift pump fails, I'm no longer captive to mechanics where ever I break down at. Just turn fuel shut off valves, unscrew fuel line and screw in carter pump, unplug elec wire from pump and plug elec wire into carter pump. After you search out the options, do what feels best for you. None of the options are cheap IMO.

If mine first thing I would do is verify fuel psi with another gauge. Item "C"...For the price of six 5 gallon fuel cans I ended up scouring out a couple newer garbage cans and transferred fuel with cheap harbor freight fluid transfer pump. Then I got some clear vinyl tube and after installing the new lift pump, I cycled fuel with filter on Airdog (FASS is better IMO) over and over. Not through truck wiring, just from tank through pumps filter and back to tank. Hooked up directly to battery with inline 20 amp fuse. Then after everything was back together, changed filters every thousand miles 3 times. I'm cheap. I would try to go 1/2 inch line from bulk head fitting on fuel module to VP44. My return line dumps right into fuel basket. But of course other options are to drill for another draw straw or sump. Which is better FASS or Airdog...I'm not going to bite on that one except to say after my FASS fell apart I had to have mechanic install new pump. (Pretty hard to drop tank in RV park in Yuma) Mechanic would only install Airdog. Why only Airdog...because his brother installed a few in Phoenix and my mechanic could Habla espainol with him. That's right language problem in Yuma, AZ. Worst mechanic I've ever had. Later correcting lousy install work the mechanic did , I called Airdog to check out their pump mounting brackets. Airdog wouldn't talk to me unless I was a distributor or "authorized mechanic". Called FASS and got the "tech" department and got questions answered. I won't touch Airdog again.

Horses should be happy... We had a tragic event news story here. Someone towing their horses down the road, the floor gave way and horses basically erased their legs before someone got drivers attention and he could stop.

Little bit off topic. Those wiring maps are good. Couple months ago one was posted here ...i sent it to my local staples. They printed it out to default size and laminated it. Picked up a mailing tube to store them in. Now I can read without magnifying glass. I keep it under rear seat along with Carter back up fuel pump. Ended up full size about 24 X 18 inches.

If you're not going to do anything fancy...buy some "7 strand trailer" wire by the foot and junction box like this https://www.ebay.com/i/272940261668?chn=ps Wire color is probably same as what your RV has, so already color coded for you. But double check. I put in a solenoid or an elec one way check valve as a safe guard because when our old convertor went bad it also took out some 12 volt fuses Even though blown fuses did their job, I still wanted to make sure any elec damage is confined to RV side if it ever happens again. If your going to get fancy and run other things such as 12 volt supply line for other things such as air compressor, charge line for batteries in pick up bed, a charging station for my Ryobi tools, 12 volt water pump to refill water from creeks or campgrounds with a water hose bib in middle of campground loop. I ran larger gauge wires allowing for voltage drop. Especially elec brake line. On my landing leg I come directly off RV battery with 20 amp fuse and added extra wire so I can connect to pick up side if rv batteries are real low. (Low batteries as in wife runs heater all night)

I should of found this site sooner. 2 years ago I replaced Michelin Ltx (street tread) with same model but more aggressive tread. First tire rotation 4 mill difference. Asked discount tire to check into why. Their answer was to towing and tire made of different compound. Better traction but disappointed in tire wear.

News flash...toilet flange bolts don't work to good in muffler clamps

Try ace hardware believe it or not. Over holiday my regular place was closed...took a chance and found it in plumbing section

Any advice on a obd11 that doesn"t cost arm and leg but does job for average guy?

If I recall right most people like 6 inches clearance between bed of truck and RV. You need to confirm, so you don't mess up bed rails. You say axles already flipped (done) Other things to think about... Do you have enough room on RV for larger tires? (Don't forget travel play of wheel in wheel well) Are you running oversize tires on tow rig? OEM spring blocks around 4 inches I think? Did previous owner add something to jack up? Maybe different spring block or added a spring? LAST RESORT... is a chuck of square tube between spring and axle. If you have to go this route, get good quality u bolts. Even though RV is not much weight, thread stretch is a concern on cheaper strength u bolts. Dexter axle actually has some U bolts made of good metal. http://www.sixrobblees.com/products/?c=151&n=u-bolts (link is where I get my trailer stuff from, mostly likely available closer to you. Last resort because you are raising RV even more. But that might come down to your only choice. 1st thing I would do is jack up or roll RV up on some wood to see exactly how many inches you need. Then I would call these folks in below link. Have been told in past these folks are customer friendly. There were a few 5th wheels marketed as easely towable with small pick ups 1/2 ton and a couple towable with small pickups as S-10 type that were built lower. link has more info, such as listing of how bolt holes per side which means more adjustability. https://www.etrailer.com/faq-measuring-a-fifth-wheel-pin-box.aspx