Rogan

- - - Updated - - - "Let 'er rip, tater chip!"

Yeah.. well, I haven't found a decent place to pinch off the return line yet. Everything I can see of it is steel..

You'll most likely over-fuel that stock HX35. You'll need to tune the AFC and fuel plate to compensate, as well as watch your EGTs like a hawk; they'll climb quickly. HX35/40 hybrid will air better for those 90s, but a better option would be a 62/65/12 (S300). It's a really good all-around turbo. DAP (vendor) has them: http://www.dieselautopower.com/D_tech_turbo_s300_62_65_12_64_65_12_phat_shaft_p/d-tech%2062mm.htm

He's got twins, and then some

I went to NAPA Truck Parts, here in town, and asked about the 6670. THey have to order it, and they want... ... $68!! Eff that!

Having had electronic calibration-sweep EGTs in the past, I've not seen one settle that high on a cold engine. I'd be curious as to what it says once it's started..that thing should settle on/near zero if it's 30*F where it's sitting. I've no experience with the AutoMeter Cobalt ones. My Autometer UntraLight will show 400*F at idle, which I know it's not that hot. I don't trust my AM EGT; just sayin'...

Not 100% of what you're talking about..In a general sense, "diesel noise" comes from the inherent design of "detonation". When you're coasting, fuel is (in essence) shut off, so there's no detonation or combustion.It will be more noisy in cooler operation temperatures (like before it's completely warmed up) due to the inefficiency of combustion until the engine gets warmed up.I'd still suggest a valve adjustment, if nothing more than for preventative maintenance/servicing.

John, that BD unit is of stacked-plate design, which is best style to use.. However, at the tune of $370, I choked! That unit is also 13" x 16" 3.5". Not sure on the 3Gen, but the 2Gen trucks will NOT accommodate those dimensions in the OE location, nor will it clear the grill if mounted in front of the AC condenser. I have one that is 11x12x3 and had to located it behind the bumper, next to the side support bracket of the bumper. Even there, it's tight. Having said that, I've got about $150 or so, tied up in it all, including fittings. Here's what I got: (Hayden) 226110 Imperial 10" Electric Fan (2.6"D x 11"H x 11.375"W) - $56.29 (Hayden) 243012 Imperial Maxi-Cool XL Transmission cooler (Size: 3/4" x 11" x 11-5/8") - $64.69 (Hayden) 226206 Imperial Thermostatic Fan Control - Preset 185*F - $27.69 The Thermostatic Fan control, however, is a great big P.O.S. Far better options out there. Here's a Hayden PDF that can maybe help you with your BTU sizing and a bunch of other good info.. http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/HaydenAuto/Documents/Cat_Imperial/2007-imperial-trans-oil-coolers.pdf

I've updated the above links to proper (current) location..

the main thing to remember is the construction of a air/oil cooler.. There are three types/designs of coolers. The main difference of the three is in the ability to cool the fluid. The tube-and-fin style has a tube that carries the transmission fluid through the cooler. It is also distinguished by its turbulators, which agitate the fluid to get more of it to contact the aluminum in the tube. Aluminum fins are attached to the outside of the tube and, since aluminum dissipates heat quickly, the heat from the fluid is absorbed by the aluminum, moves out to the fins, and is then carried away from the cooler by the air flowing through the fins on the outside of the cooler. This style of cooler works well but is the least efficient type of cooler. Tube and Fin: http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=819494&imageurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rockauto.com%2Finfo%2FFourSeasons%2F53002.jpg Plate-and-fin coolers work on the same principle as the tube-and-fin-style coolers but are more efficient. Plate-and-fin coolers force fluid through much smaller plates that, like the tube-and-fin cooler, cause turbulation (or agitation) of the fluid. But fluid in the plate-and-fin style is cooled better before leaving the cooler because the smaller, flatter plates allow more fluid to contact the aluminum surface inside the cooler. Plate and Fin: Stacked-plate coolers are the most efficient coolers. They have the same design as the plate-and-fin style, but they have high-flow turbulators for heavy-duty towing or race applications. The stacked-plate design also includes mounting points for mounting the cooler off the ends. The stacked-plate design also uses -AN fittings, which are popular in high-performance and racing applications where the cooler may need to be installed and removed more frequently than in a typical towing setup. Stacked-plate:

there should be zero lateral movement in the pitman arm's shaft. My 2001 had a good bit which caused quite a bit of wandering.. I put a steering box stabilizer on and it took all of it away.

about a 3 or 4.

Roger that.

If I get home early enough today, I'll give this a whirl..This morning, it was 31*F when I left for work. Startup brought 22psi @ idle, and the drive in to work, I observed it vary from 20-15psi, depending on throttle position and such.. But I'll try pinching down on the return line to see what the pressure does.

I think I suggested installing an aftermarket temp gauge, just for S&Gs.. If you need one, I believe I have a spare AutoMeter temp gauge and sender that I can shoot your way..

Dave, Glad to see you back, bud! Hope everything works out for you, and sooner than later!

Yep... Much lost dollars..Maybe next year I'll eaither have this truck totally squared away, or have another truck ;)

The snow gods are rubbing my nose in the fact that I don't have a snow plow on the 3500. :-(Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

So, apparently, the PCM is right, per Dean. I may still buy the '96 PCM and harness, as the harness would server me well. I've got a new list of things to check/do for Dean. Hopefully I can get this done this evening, if weather holds out. Main thing he wants me to check is Governor pressure. 1psi per 1mph is what I should see, apparently. - - - Updated - - - Rain moved in last evening, so I've still not checked this pressure... we'll see what this evening brings, but it's not looking good, weather-wise..

On the fuel-pressure query from ISX, I've since moved the pseudo Fuel Pressure gauge (a re-purposed 35psi boost/vac AutoMeter gauge) to the interior so that I can monitor the pressure changes.For the majority, it stays in the 14-20psi range, given various conditions.. I've seen it dip down to like 10-12psi a couple times, and this was not under heavy loads; just randomly does it.

Here's the latest projection (not forecast) I'm in a 12" to 18" projection area...

How many fill-ups have you done with it for calibration, out of curiosity?

I used to use SolidWorks years ago. It is a great application.