Rogan

Being prior military, and my MOS was Main Battle Tank - Armor Crewman...W&F's links made me grin a little..And as for the AC, that would've been sweet! LOL

basically, his 3D maps are just a fancy one of these (this from my 500whp Subaru when I was tuning it with OpenSource..)

I don't want anything that hard-core.. but it would be nice ;)

Yup, I noticed.. ;) - - - Updated - - - BTW, mike.. My SG2 decided to start working normally again.. weird...

You can pick up 'just a turbo timer' (if that's all you're after) for under $100 from many places. They aren't diesel-specific, so getting one for a car is fine. All it is doing is supplying voltage to the IGN and ACC circuits to simulate the key is still on, for a pre-determined amount of time. TurboXS, Blitz, GReddy, etc.. Installation is cake, as well. Your basic connections of an aftermarket turbo timer are: The wires coming out form the keyswitch usually consist of: 12 v - 12 volt constant power IGN- Ignition power ACC- Accessory power ST- Starter signal Other than these four wires, the vehicle may have two (or more) IGN wires. Wiring Procedure: (1)_Cut the Power harness close to the 3-pin connector (2)_Use a volt meter or test light to find the appropriate wires. Connect the Red wire to the 12v, the Green to to IGN, and the Blue to ACC. (3)_ Connect GND wire to solid ground surface. (4)_ Connect Purple wire to VSS signal (5)_Connect Brown wire to parking brake switch that shows 0 or GND when it’s set. (6)_Solder your connections (or use Scotch-locks if you are comfy with their endurance.) (7)_Cover all connections carefully with electrical tape or equivalent. With vehicles that have 2 ignition (IGN) wires, connect the Green wire to the ignition (ON) wire which does not drop voltage when the starter is activated. Then connect the Blue wire to the other ignition wire. I'm with you, John. Even with having built extremely high-HP gas turbo cars in the past, I rarely, if ever, used a TT. I never used the one on the Edge in my '01.

That's always my FIRST place I go to.. The problem is, I don't see any separation between ABS and NON ABS front hub assemblies, except for ONE of them. I'm trying to determine if the ABS sensor is housed in the knuckle, rather than the hub.. I guess I'll crawl under it when it stops raining..

It's definitely 4W-ABS..

Failed inspection today due to left hub bearing. I've been looking at RA.com and other sites, but can't seem to find a listing for a 4whl abs hub... Are they not abs-specific, like the 2001 was?

yeah, it was fairly flat stretch of highway.and for some reason, Tapatalk turned the pictures sideways during upload..

ha! I smoked a 12 pound pork butt yesterday. 13hrs over mesquite wood!

At 60mph, towing my enclosed 20 footer... From the Galaxy S3

LOL That's how I felt when I went from my 400+hp '96, to my turd-slow '01, when it was stock! Yeah, this one is built, but is a hack-job from previous owner and a 2-bit trashy diesel shop in Wesminster, MD.. I'm tempted to either build a 47RH, and eliminate the electronics, or go back to an (originally-equipped) 5 speed.. Yes, this DRW was originally a 5 speed.

. .until you get older and do a lot of in town towing... B-)From the Galaxy S3

RTFM lolSeriously, though, the manual spells it out nicely, and it'll take a couple tankfuls to get it dialed in.. From the Galaxy S3

I've been there. I know that's frustrating..

good job.

So, my '97 3500's airbag light is on. I assumed it was the clockspring, as that is a common issue that I've experienced in the past. I ordered a new one, and it arrived yesterday.Last night, I pulled the steering wheel. Low and behold, the clockspring was trashed..So, I replaced it with the new one.Started the truck up, AIRBAG light comes on, then goes out!!...Then came back on and stayed on.. :mad:Dagnabbit.. I need this fixed so I can get the truck inspected.. I printed off the wiring diagram, and the device components are pretty straight-forward:control moduleleft sensorright sensorclockspringdash lightIIRC, the airbag is 2ohm resistance.. Can anyone verify that? I'd like to place a 2 ohm resistor in place of the airbag plug, to isolate whether or not it is clock-spring/airbag related, or module/sensor related..Any help is appreciated..

well that TOTALLY EFFIN' SUCKS, dude... :banghead:

DieselAHave you calibrated it with multiple fill-ups yet? or just recently stuck it in the truck?

Mine does the same thing... :banghead:

I guess I never sat and let mine idle for 5 minutes...

Ambient air temp has a lot to do with it, as well as heat-soak in the cast iron/steel pieces.Something to consider:Most highway trips are followed by slow, easy-driving trips to the house, etc.. This 'should' serve well as time to help cool the turbo down, aiding in the decreased need for 'turbo timer'..But if your ambient temps are in the mid 80s +, then I think mid-high 300s is fine.

HA! lol

Having had a few Cherokees and GCs, check the wheel bearings, and of course, the TREs and track bar.They were also known for tearing the steering box off of the rail, but that was more commonly due to oversized tires.