dripley

i dont know about new cars, but when I bought the 2500 I was worried about hooking up the 5th wheel to new engine and pulling it. The mechanic at the dealer told me strap that thing on there and drive. Even the owners manual said the same thing just worded a little different. Something about driving the truck empty would hamper the time frame it took to break the engine in, final finish i think they called it. for the most part I did drive empty out of necessity and it took about 20 to 25000 miles before I saw any difference in it. I was a little disappointed in the truck until I reached that mileage. For a period of about 3 months at that time It just got stronger and stronger and then leveled out. Did anyone else who bought theirs new experience anything like that? I am speaking of a diesel and not a gas engine. Tyler are you expecting something like that out of your rebuild? Bill and Tyler both, Is what I described above seem normal to either of you? It seemed weird to me when I went thru it. Hope I did not turn this thread around, my truck has been on Dino since day one. 350k and she is still as strong as an ox. I have nothing on synthetic to compare it to.

http://bedsitter23.dreamwidth.org/32353.html Grow more of these. Mike still does not believe in Idaho potatoes.

I fell like a mental midget in the land giants. This continues to be a very good read.. Ya'll keep it up.

Same here, good to get things fixed. If your cables are still good you can cut off the ends and crimp on new ones or like I did one of my negatives. Probably do all of them like this one day. These have been on for about 6 months and I just put a few drops of motor oil on them and they are corrosion free. They are military style and i soldered new ends on the wires. I need to shrink wrap them however.

Hopefully you dont have any idiots with flying drones around. Those tankers do marvelous job but they have no room for error as low as they fly.

Thanks, that gives me a better perspective of how close to the danger zone you are.

Mine is about 5 years old from Blue Chip with 133k on it. 2 stroke its whole life. Of the different bio's I have run the bio blend which is unlabeled for content has been the best. If the myriad of labeling crap I have read is right it is 5% or less and the truck seems to like it. I would however not like waking up one day and find the any of the fuel system rotted away.

Maybe a little difficult to answer but where do you live in relationship to to the photo? ahead behind left or right?

how are you checking the temp?

I have seen what you are saying about the B-5 or less but also seen things like this from Oregonhttps://www.portlandoregon.gov/bds/article/160802 saying you have to label even B-5. It does seem to go both ways but most of what i have seen says you dont and some say it has to be labeled but no percentage shown if 5 or below. I think it is confusing at best.

Any idea as to what temp it takes to set that code? It would seem that the sensor that detects this is in the VP. Any idea as to what temp the fuel would be flowing thru the system? I would think the return line would be the warmest for sure. I have always been one to run my tank very low before refilling, especially on the highway. The return line on my AD returns fuel to the basket so on a low tank I am probably pumping some warm fuel to the VP at that stage. Anyway to read that sensor to know whats going on?

Be sure and check your brakes.

Here in this part of Alabama they are all priced within .04 of .05 cents of each other. I would have to look closer at some of the labels to get a better idea. After reading from Eaton's site on the fuel lines that I have the B-5 and less should be ok like you say. But they do say that the temps the lines are exposed to could accelerate degradation of the lines especially with B-20 or greater. I am not thinking the lines get exposed to the kind of temps they are speaking of, 125* C. .

The NATSO page is one I looked at yesterday along with many others. They did seem to agree on the labeling of B-5 or less not having to show the percentage. The one my truck likes the best are label like this. The ones labeled bio mass work fine but dont seem to run as quiet as bioblend. Not sure why.

Guess I will have to go to you tube and see it. Have not thought about John Prine in years. The only one I remember was " there is a hole in daddy's arm where all the money goes". Dont know why that has stuck in my head all these years, but it has. Went to you tube and the song I remembered is Sam Stone. Your choice was pretty darn good.

From the little research I have done today the FTC has had regulations in place for labeling since 2009. I have been seeing them for a while but never paid much attention to them until recently. They appear similar in the five states I have been working around for the past 6 months. NC, SC, GA, TN, and AL

You got that right. I think more knowledge is needed, at least more than I have.

I thought about that after the ditch, but the ditch is in the front yard about 50 feet from where the truck was parked so no biggee. Maybe i will remember it is there next time.

Biodiesel FAQ's (2) (1).docI did a little checking around on my fuel lines today. I have an AD on mine with Eaton H20108 fuel lines. They are nitrile and this is what i found on it from Eaton. It appears from the FAQ that B-20 and below, while not good, that temp is going to be a major concern. Any one know what kind of temps the fuel can get up to in the lines? If what I am reading about pump labeling if the pump is not labeled to a B number that it is supposed to be B-5 or less. It seems the plain labeled bio I have bought acts the best with the truck. quiet and good mileage results. But there still remains the fact I am not sure what I am buying and putting thru the truck. I am going to have to do a little rethinking on this. I found a couple of stations here with straight #2 and the price is the same. I would even entertain changing the fuel lines since the truck seems to like the blend. Bio compatible fuel line is not that expensive. The fittings would possibly cost more that the line.

I am definitely not the expert on this, but if you are using the 99's ECM it will be looking for a signal from the CRANK sensor( I believe that is what you mean). it will get one from the cam sensor and that may be enough for it to run but would probably set a code for the crank. Might be as simple as a reflash on the ECM but that is trip to the dealer. Someone else that knows more than I will be along soon.

I put fast coolers on mine a little while back. Adds more fluid but does not bring up the level. I just fill mine on level ground and then drive the truck to the drainage ditch and put the passenger side down and squirt in the extra. Of course checking the level later leaves a little to be desired. As far as harmonic dampers are concerned, can you fit 2 on your truck?

Ever since I ran the first tank thru back in Oklahoma, B5 as I recall in 09, I noticed my truck liked it. Idled quieter as I recall. never gave it much thought until about April of last year when I noticed the places I was stopping were all starting to sell blended diesel. The truck seemed to like it and the mileage showed it. Bear in mind I just installed an Edge comp and I am not sure what that has to do with it since I run in the off position but it does boost fooling which is helping my situation greatly. I have seen alot of what ya'll post for reference as well. There is too much info out there on both sides for me to make a decision based on what I see here and on the internet. Cummins says with my 02 motor I should be fine on a B-20 mix. My truck does like it and seems to run quieter with it with good mileage results and power also. For now I will take my uneducated self to running more of the bio and be the guinea pig. I got 10k coming up soon with the bio and will pull the filters and see what is in there. I have to say that my pressures are staying the same since starting with the blended fuel and no fluctuations have occurred as of yet. Both filters on the AD have over 10k on them now, probably nearer to 14k or 15k. I would think if the filters were catching a lot of crud I would see a drop of some sort. Just food for thought here. When I take my trips home I am usually running in the high 70's. That means I am turning around 2300 rpm. Could this make a difference in how the fuel is burnt/consumed by the motor? I know in past posts here that most seem to think that 2000 rpm is the sweet spot. Maybe 2300 is the sweet spot for bio? I don't know just saying.

On that trip with the 5th wheel, I stopped in Georgia and they sold straight #2. so the whole trip was on #2 and I got 10.1 mpg running 65 or a little under in 5th gear. The rv weighs 15k and is 12'-8" tall. Lots of drag.

I scratch my head on some of that also. If the sensor is cheap, it is a way to bypass the trouble shooting. I have done it before and have some spares to prove it. It is up to you on the route you take.

did any of these trucks come with both the cam and crank sensor? Mine only has the cam sensor I believe.