Junkman

Unfortunately, I found out about using special roll pin punches too late and may have buggered the end up. I stuck a boroscope in and don't see how messing up the end would impact it. A BFH didn't move it even though all of the vids had it out in a few taps. One of the links above said the pin is tapered in which case, it should come out. I may buy a better punch and try again. Shop wants $400 + tax to change the seals. I have other stuff to do and can't screw around forever. Supposedly it comes out from the ring gear (passenger) side towards the driver side.

Thought I had it done. Not quite. I found this which refers to a Dana 60 on an 00 Dodge http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showt...eplacing-seals and this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pLezm9BxiU and bought this. https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piec...set-93111.html I can get a good line with the punch but the roll pin still ain't moving even with the BFH hitting the punch. Edit: the HF punch set comes apart if you get it stuck in a hole and try to pull it out. The handle comes off the shaft. When punching, it seems OK. At least it hasn't broken into pieces. I still need to do the tappet cover gasket and fix the PS reservoir leak but don't want the truck further away from being mobile. I'm about ready to put the thing back together and throw a few Ben Franklin tools at it and let someone with a lift and cement floor deal with it. Ideas?

I have a leak and was told that the bushing needs to be changed if you have trouble sealing the seal on either end of the transfer case. I haven't gotten around to finding the bushing. It is easier to buy parts than to actually install them. I'm waiting until all current parts are on the truck before ordering more. Does anyone have a source or is the bushing easy to find?

Harmonic balancers are not supposed to move sideways even with the belt off.

Ok, I'm changing axle seals on my 00 2500 and run into a problem I've not found anywhere else. The next step is to remove the carrier. The passenger outer axle is out as is the driver axle. The diff cover is off and the cad cover is off. The remaining passenger intermediate shaft is slid all the way to the drivener side as it should be. It is making contact with a pin in the center of the carrier so it literally can't move further. All that is left is to remove the shift nut from the cad housing and remove the passenger inner shaft. Youtube shows this as an easy process. On my truck, there isn't enough room for the shift nut to come out. It looks like there is a washer, bushing or something on the driver side of the housing but it is all the way to the side and can't be pressed in for more room. Twist, turn, bang, cuss there is not enough room. The nut gets wedged between the housing and end of the axle and won't come out. Anyone got any ideas? I've fooled with this thing off and on for way too long. It apparently isn't common. Go here to 6.26 to see what I'm talking about.

It only makes a difference if your column is messed up. I've had one for several years and it works well. I have the NV4500 so can't comment on an auto install.

I forgot who the manufacturer is on the dash I bought. When I was in the process, I thought it is the same one Genos sells. I would just buy the LMC dash if I were to do it again. LMC reportedly has all of the trim and exterior vent pieces included with the dash. The process wasn't bad but I pulled the dash completely and had plenty of time and space to work. My replacement dash is fine. The only thing I would have liked is the molding and vents.

Pull the pump. Use the correct size plastic pipe and hammer to get the internals apart. Use a little black rtv between the pump and block. Applythe rtv with a gloved finger. Don't go wild and have it squishing all over. You may need the braided oil line between the pump and block.

The VP is about 4 hrs. I ran into a bunch of things that needed doing. Cleaning took time, a shop that did my clutch left a starter bolt out, can sensor should be changed if it hasn't been. Some brackets from the stock fuel pump needed to come off, wiring harness needed to be taped. Shops don't usually do these little things. They just want to throw parts in and want and get money. Athe guy that screwed up my clutch & trans install didn't even clean the bell housing. I wish his fee had gone towards a lift.

I just looked at tirerack. There is 4# difference per tire going from 235/75/16 to 267/75/16. I'm running 4.10s & would like to get engine rpms down on the interstate. There isn't much difference in tire circumference (~32") so engine speed won't be effected much. The main difference is price out the door. Discount Tire price matches & charges $30 for install & lifetime balance. Pay 10% sales tax but don't pay shipping. It looks like ~$150 total purchase price savings to buy small and whatever 16# lighter total for all 4 tires would be. Any idea on what 16# total will increase mileage?

Be sure to run lube ie 2-stroke. I had a new pump throw a 216 and coincidentally, it went away with more oil. Too small a sample size and I didn't measure anything. Extra oil will not hurt and you may get lucky.

I bought a "lifetime alignment" from Firestone so I could run the truck on the machine with impunity - for free. The only negative is that the tech want to "toe & go" regardless of how it steers. I now have them print the specs, drive the truck then take it back the next day until they get it right.Confirm with Professor Google what settings cause a vehicle to steer 1 way or another so you're conversant with the details.For example, Caster will pull to the side with the least caster. Caster is NOT a wear item. Increasing caster causes the vehicle to steer straight ahead. Too much caster causes it to be more difficult to turn.Camber is a wear item and will pull to the side with the most negative camber.SO WHAT???You can use these adjustments to know which way the truck "should" pull and to correct a pull.If truck pulls to the right, check the current alignment settings. They will usually confirm that the truck is simply acting as expected. Now have the tech dial in more caster on the Right side (or less on the left) to compensate. You can adjust it yourself once you know what the current settings are because caster is a non wear item and doesn't cause any other settings to change. Mine seems to be best with ~ 3* of caster & 0 toe. Camber is not adjustable on the Ram unless you have adjustable ball joints. Adjustable ball joints are a ROYAL pita to get right and most techs won't bother or will charge a lot. Go with stock ball joints unless you have a reason to get the adjustable. They are NOT an upgrade.Use caster to compensate for camber pull or pull caused by a mis-aligned rear axle. It MAY be that you have some worn bushings or the truck took a hit. I'm going to make sure ALL parts including bushings are refurbished next Spring.

Sometimes you have to cut your losses & dump an incompetent mechanic. I know 1 that is basically a good guy but can't fix ____. I just use his lift & pay him for the trouble. 01 FSM is on pdftown & may be helpful putting the truck back together. Be sure to add 1oz of 2-stroke oil to each gallon of fuel. I had a new ump throw a 0215, MWFI said I had gas in my fuel. I dumped a tank & added 2stroke. Code hasn't returned. It may be a case of keeping the elephants away but I don't feel like paying for another pump.

Normally, you can replace seals. Peter Gould sells a seal kit and video on how to do it. I've posted generic seal descriptions & specs but xp machine is down. (____ Microsoft and the virus writers), I saw fluid dripping from between the PS & vac pump. Seal install was easy especially with Peter's video. See if there is something on you tube. I have only replaced seals and don't know if no vac would condemn the pump.

Autobody sent me another dash. The bezel fits better. Getting the passenger airbag in hasn't happened yet. The slots need to be ground out. Too little and the tabs won't go in. Too big & they won't stay. I've taken the bag in & out about 10 times making adjustments. It is a HUGE pita especially for something so simple. I normally take something apart, fix it & put it back together. This has been a fight.Autobody gave good service but should do a better job slotting foring has the tabs. The 1st time, everything has to be figured out.I've heard better reports about the LMC dash & would try that if I weren't so far down the road with this one. No need to pull the dash. Just tip it forward making sure things like gauge plumbing are free & don't get pulled out.

I have a couple of stethoscopes bought cheap from Harbor Freight. Noise seems to have quit for now but was definitely from compressor. I'll get ready to deal with compressor & all of the related parts but may put it off until next summer. Does anyone have a favorite place for AC parts - preferably with known good quality and prices? At one time I had a sales tax number & used that to buy at jobber prices. There is a substantial mark up between wholesale and retail. Quality would take priority over price since AC is expensive & I only want to do it once. I found these people as a start. https://www.ackits.com/

My air conditioning compressor recently started squeaking only while the compressor is engaged. Turn AC off & no squeak. I'm thinking bearing but haven't found a diagram to know that the bearing can be changed. The clutch is working. The only issue is the squeak & potential failure.I recently did the heater core and the AC is cold. Coolant is new, filled and not leaking. The less I have to disturb the radiator or AC the better. The usual "I want to be down as little as possible" applies. So...Can the bearing be replaced? Can it be replaced without removing the compressor? Does the radiator have to come out? Is the bearing a Dodge only part or is the bearing a standard size? We have a bearing supply house & I could order from there if only the bearing needs to be changed.It looks like bearing would be pressed into the pulley (P1 #3) of the pdf. In which case, I may be able to press out & simply replace. Comments? AC_Clutch.pdf

I bought a dash from Autobodyfiller. It looks like the same dash that Genos sells. L&K also sells it. The dash doesn't fit exactly right as the 11:00 corner is too big for the bezel. The whole corner needs to pull in an 1/8". There isn't enough to grind/drill/modify existing mounting holes.Supposedly LMC dash fits very well, comes in the proper color plastic (not painted), includes new vents and A-Pillar trim fits properly, and is less expensive. Unfortunately LMC has to import and says they expect an 8 week wait. Give them a call & check for yourself.

I think it would be helpful to spec generic parts for the common failure items. Starter contacts & plunger. Which ones? http://www.sherco-auto.com/contacts.htm Vac/PS Pump reseal Large o-ring 039 (orange = Viton?) Small o-ring 132 Seal (double lipped) 28x38x7 Also needed: Cummins gasket between block and engine Perhaps need braided steel oil line between pump & engine What about bearing for belt tensioner? Alternator rebuild used to be standard. What are the specs & sources. I'm always in a hurry when something craps out so frequently just buy something to get going. This would be a good sticky if/when completed (accurately).

My son works for a parts supplier. They put the same part out under multiple part numbers so they can have different items and prices. Its sort of like buying a bearing generic from the bearing manufacturer or buying a vehicle specific bearing at a higher price.

I changed my cam sensor with the VP but decided to go with chainstore part because prior CRANK sensors (both original unknown brand and Cummins sensor) had failed close together. I figured that I may as well buy cheap if they are going to fail anyway. You can get to the cam sensor without pulling the VP. I forgot what fitting to remove the cam sensor - perhaps a torx??? Someone post back type & size when you find out.

I paid $180 from OReillys back in 3/2010 when mine took a dump on the TN back roads. I bought the only alt in town. I bench tested before install and it is still working. Supposedly lifetime in this case means that all parts have been replaced and only case is reused.I'd replace the bearings if I had time to go to the bearing store & match something up. Parts sure are cheap these days. The only problem is they frequently don't work.

You can drill away. I drilled most of the way through then started the engine & finished drilling. All of the metal chips blew out because diesels don't have vacuum. How did you pressurize the intake? I suggest googling "leak down test" for proper procedure. Piston needs to be @ TDC with valves closed when you pressurize.

Here shops will warranty parts and labor if they have a warranty from the manufacturer. I had a shop install some drivetrain seals that are leaking again. They are going to do the work again at no cost. That 's better than me having to do it even if the seals are free.

I wouldn't want to pay much for an unknown used pump. Most people that don't frequent forums don't install gauges or aftermarket fuel systems. $400 with 4 hrs labor (mine or mechanic's) would be high for what amounts to a crap shoot. Here everyone refers to BlueChip or MWFI but many reman pumps on the market are from overseas & are low quality. Also, I'd NEVER go A1-cardone for this. MWFI can be had delivered for < $1,000.