Cronus577

That was the last resort option for me honestly. I've been checking for trailers but nothing around here within my criteria and budget.

Hey guys, I need to rent a trailer so I can move from Washington to Texas here in the next week. I'll be driving my 99 2wd tow pig. I'll be towing my 2001 ram 2500 QCSB 4x4 and was looking for recommendations on rental trailers. I want to have all 4 wheels on the trailer if possible. I've called Rhyder, Sunbelt, and United Rentals and their trailers have to be returned to the same location, so I need something I can return out of state.. Are there any other 1 way trailer rentals that have a max capacity of 8000lbs or more so I can be on the safe side or is something like Uhaul's trailer good enough? Uhaul's max trailer weight is capacity is 5,290lbs Budget's max trailer weight capacity is 4,055lbs Penske's max trailer weight capacity is 4,050lbs TL;DR. Does anybody know of a company that I can rent a trailer from to tow this truck? She's a heavy girl and it makes it hard to find something.

Foam window seal. Used small and medium sizes depending on the width of each part I resealed. Seems to work just fine

Already have the LED bulbs put in, the. I had some similar to the article you posted but they were non Canbus so they flickered. So I picked up some of these LED bulbs and put them in, the last pictures in the cab are just from the led lights, no flash and wasn't under direct light picture was taken around 10pm so was pretty dark. For the power outlet I just want a stock outlet because I don't want to cut into the stock harness and I like the stock look Thanks man, it's wasnt hard at all, just took a lot of time. The hardest part is getting the clips unhooked from the fuse panel. I swear im dumb and it took me 2 hours trying to figure out how to go about unhooking them.

I actually got it off of eBay after a few months of looking but I was very specific on finding one with no scratches, cracks, or broken tabs This is actually a northern truck, bought it in Washington about an hour north of Seattle

After I used the extractor I did exactly that and scrubbed it with soap before hand to make it smell better so for about a week it smelled like lemons faint lemons in the truck. The dye took away a lot of the good smell

Hey folks, I haven't posted in a while but i've been around tinkering with 2 out of the 3 2nd gen 24v's that I have. My latest project I've been working on is my red 2001 sport truck I thought I'd share. I got the truck a few months ago and immediately began tearing it apart once I got it to the house. The interior was disgusting and falling apart, typical broken dash, it rattled, there was mold growing on the carpet and it even had maggots under some old food. Here's the progress so far. Torn apart within the first 24 hours of owning it The absolutely disgusting old carpet, I was afraid to even touch it without gloves.. How it turned out after scrubbing it and using a house carpet extractor with the hand hose, went over it twice Got the carpet back in, did a slightly darker dye to get rid of the orange discoloration from the coolant dripping onto the passenger side, This was gone over twice and then I hit the passenger floor for a third time while it was in the truck so it's still slightly damp so it's a little bit darker right now. Put some of the interior back in after a vacuuming as much as I could, the back seat looks brand new! Time to work on the old cracked dashboard! The whole dash frame got taken out, stripped, wiped down of any dirt because i'm very meticulous. If I'm going to work on something, I figure might as well do it right the first time. The LMC dash fit perfectly with no issues at all. At this point in time I figured I was already this close to the HVAC box, I might as well pull it out and clean it! If you look at the blend door at the top right, the foam had mold growing on it, no thank you! More dirt, going to have to clean that! Well, I sure was glad I decided to remove the HVAC box, Leaky heater core, dirty evaporator, bad blower motor, and a crumpling blower motor resistor. Yikes! The entire HVAC box got taken apart, cleaned from top to bottom, and reassembled with all new everything! I even went ahead and pulled off all the old foam and put on a new sealer where the old foam was falling apart. Now that the firewall is cleaned up, time for the HVAC box install. Boom! Put in place and ready to go. Remember the old moldy foam from earlier? All gone, and seals perfectly! The midnight grind, literally... By the morning I had everything put back in and was ready to go. All that work and the dash bezel was still cracked, well, until I FINALLY found a wood grain bezel in 100% perfect condition with no scratches or broken tabs! Out with the old, in with the new! The steering wheel bugged me though so I ended up getting a cover for it. As of last night, I believe she's probably the the truck with the nicest interior. Just need to find some power seats and some agate wood door panels. Maybe do a new steering wheel and definitely need to get a 12v outlet that clips into place nicely. Every piece of the interior got pulled out and cleaned, the cup holders got disassembled and cleaned, including the rear one under the console. This interior is immaculate now. Here's a little bonus for sticking around this long. I also did the 4th gen steering upgrade, as well as a Dodge Off Road Track bar and a steering stabilizer. Big difference coming from the stock setup, Once I got all of it in and took it for a test drive, my power steering was leaking and my water pump went out. That's actually coolant dripping on the ground in the last picture but since then has all been fixed! The wife will be a happy camper driving this until I sell my 99'. Thanks for taking a look! It was a lot of work but I don't regret a single moment of it and will do it again in a heartbeat with the way it turned out.

I had him rebuild my NV4500, Put in an upgraded 1 3/8" input shaft and a fully splined output shaft to fix 5th gear. Trans got stuck in 5th gear twice a few days after I put it in, he told me if it kept happening to bring it over and he'll get it fixed. Not sure what the problem was but hasn't happened since and i've put 10k miles on it. Shifts smooth, no issues. And any questions that I had he responded super quickly. Would recommend him to anyone needing a rebuilt NV4500 or NV5600. He's also the one that makes these videos!

I've got a silver 99 with compounds, stock 2001 24v in red and another stock 2001 in blue. I think I'm okay for now!

Shoot, wouldn't take a lot lot more to get the cab torn down. I'm actually really liking that metallic red! Thanks for the suggestion From what some other people were saying. Bedlining the bottom half of the truck will retain moisture and cause the truck to rust underneath without knowing. Anybody know if that's true or not?

Thanks, yeah would be gutting the truck and would have everything repainted when it comes to that time. I plan on completely restoring the truck from the ground up, powdercoating suspension parts and having the frame painted as well. Pretty much a 100% restoration when it's done.

I have a 2001 ram 2500 sport edition that's currently red. I've been considering having it repainted due to the clear coat peeling on the hood and roof. I like the look of the red color but I absolutely love the forest green color. I also intend on bed lining the bottom part to prevent rock chips and I'm trying to find some pictures of the 2 colors with a black bed liner and cannot find any. This is my truck color right now and i'm leaning more towards the green sport look. Does anybody have any pictures of what i'm looking for or have any thoughts? I don't want to be a cop magnet but I want to have a nice looking truck, I'm just not sure how the bed liner will look on the red color.

I'm running a S475 / HX35W combo, I love it. Spools quick and it's a breeze with towing. I towed a trailer from NM to Washington state about 6 months back and rarely ever got over 1000*F. If you really want to run compounds right out of the gate you can, but if you ever want to switch turbos you'll have to find a new intermmediate hot pipe between the two turbos since the HX35 has a replacement exhaust elbow to meet up with the S475.

Hooray for getting southern trucks! My 1999 is completely rust free, was a Texas truck its whole life but man the dash was in bad condition when I picked it up. That sun beats them to hell.

Wouldn't be a bad place to start, But it's not as easy as you would think. The snap ring holding the compressor housing on is a huge pain in the @$$ to get on Took me and my buddy to get it back on. Can't speak for the Heath Diesel wheel but it looks good and it's cheaper than the Wicked Wheel 2. It also looks like it uses the newer 11 blade style which is cool. Would need to make sure you have all the necessary upgrades for fueling such as an aftermarket lift pump, some sort of boost fooler, and a turbo elbow to increase your boost levels before you'll see any notable changes in power, without a boost fooler it'll throw an overboost code and without the elbow you won't see anymore boost since the stock elbow will still open the wastegate at it's set amount. An aftermarket lift pump is required to keep your VP44 alive or you'll be looking at spending a lot more money than you anticipated.

Crazy Carl's Piping kit. I love it. I opted for a smaller exhaust housing on the S475 which was an extra $400. Haven't had any issues with it, spool up is quicker than stock with the billet compressor wheel on the HX35, even with "smaller" 7x.009 sac injectors (100hp), and low EGT's. I barely ever go over 900*F even at WOT having my Quadzilla backing it down to 50PSI. The only thing is I had to use a cutting wheel to get the 4" downpipe to fit properly and some of kit didn't agree with my BD 3 piece manifold so more cutting was required to make the heater core hoses fit. I honestly couldn't imagine having to tow without it. Made 2 trips from New Mexico to Washington and back from Washington to New Mexico. Straight shot 30+ hours of driving and the truck didn't hesitate at all, stayed right at 190* coolant temp the whole time, was a breeze cruising 80MPH with the 26' enclosed trailer completely loaded down with all my house furniture and my car. was right at 16,800GVW. Best yet unloaded I get 20-21MPG highway.

I have 3 trucks at the moment. My daily driver is my silver 1999 QCLB built 5 speed, compound turbo setup. Currently selling it if anyone is interested. All major work has been done to it. Awesome long trip driver and tow rig. Right at 365k miles. Every cylinder still had the factory crosshone when I did the head gasket, perfect looking pistons, no cracks and now blowby. My second is my 2001 is a QCSB 4x4 Auto, current state of it right now, cleaning the carpets, just ordered an LMC dash to put in it and get everything 100% in the cab Third is my wife's 2001 QCSB 4x4 Auto, has a bad VP44 so will probably swap the red truck's VP44 over to the blue truck and P7100 pump the red truck, not sure yet because I LOVE the Quadzilla Adrenaline

Cody Albrecht from Super Stick Transmissions rebuilt mine. A lot of people recommend him on other pages. He was nice enough to send me a transmission and let me drop my core off once I had the new one in. Cody Albrecht's Facebook

@IBMobile thanks bud, just ran to AutoZone and got one of the caps, $11 and some change your save my hands from cuts and some 4 letter words. Traveling from Washington to Texas tomorrow so let's see how that goes

Lol just found one randomly and thought "Send it!"? Haha. Will definitely try to find a vented cap soon, honestly would rather not try to deal with the vent itself. Will drill a hole in mine now just as a temp fix

Haha I know all too well of being wrong all the time. On the last 2 hours of the drive and she feels great. I'm at 16,210lbs gvw and these compounds keep me right at 900-1000f for my EGTs pulling a 6% grade for 6 miles. Extremely impressed with towing for 40 hours straight

Yes sir, well Puyallup, haven't been calculating MPG right now but not good having to fill up every 2 hours. Was going to add up all the receipts and calculate MPG that way using our route. But I actually feel a HUGE difference in not only power & torque, lower EGTs, quicker turbo spooling, and lower canbus fueling numbers after I unscrewed the fuel cap. I was using 5th until I hit California and they have a 55mph max towing speed, plus their highways are bumpy and destroyed. So I think the issue has been resolved. First idle torque taking off went from having to run 1500 rpm and slowly engage The clutch to being able to start to pull this trailer up a hill from a stop without touching the throttle, thanks a ton @Mopar1973Man@dripley and @JAG1 been dealing with this issue for around 2 years thinking it was the VP. Kind of mind boggling something like a tank vent come cause such significant issues to performance., Iwould have never thought about the tank vent ever causing this big an issue but thank you guys so much! Now I can teach my wife how to drive a manual and this dual disk clutch thanks y'all as well!

Currently driving from West Texas to Seattle Washington, well res test out as soon as I fill up for the 8th time Just drill my own hole or buy a vented cap? I'll unscrew the cap for now and see if there is any difference. I'll look at the vent tomorrow after I get to Washington at around 5 am. This 32 hour drive non stop is for the birds, can't complain though I made myself a good setup

Could that be why the truck feels weak? And is it an easy fix it does the bed need to come off?

New S475, New hx35 core. Both spins freely. Crazy Carl's twin turbo piping with new filter, everything is nice and tight, could be the tank vent, it gasps for air when I take off the cap to fill up. Fuel lines are the (half inch I believe) from the Fass 150 kit