Cronus577

Make sure you lubricate the o-rings before putting them back in. Don't use a petroleum base lube like Vaseline because it'll cause the o-ring to swell and it might make it harder to pull out the next time. And use a crows foot 19MM with a torque wrench to get it torqued down properly, you don't want to crack the flare on the end of the tube. Should be 30ft lbs.

That could very well be the source of the problem since all of it happened after the injector install. A local Cummins dealer should have them in stock, or you can order them. Home Depot, Orileys, auto zone might also have the right size for a temp fix, but I heard the rubber is too soft.

I would take it to a nearby Oriley's or Auto zone and check it for any codes. Even though it may not show a CEL it may have some stored.

The first thing you should do before getting any kind of programmer is to get the basic gauges for the truck, Fuel Pressure, EGT, as a must and trans temp for auto, otherwise a boost gauge or whatever you want. Bigger injectors shouldn't make the truck shake any more than normal, in fact, I heard that with the bigger nozzles, the VP44 doesn't have to work as hard to deliver the fuel. As far as the AC noise, it really doesn't matter how old it is, it can still be an issue even with a brand new one, always good to check. When you replaced the VP44, did you make sure to get the stock SO version? And did your replacement ECM get flashed with a 235hp tune or a 245hp tune? I've read some articles that a SO truck doesn't like the 245hp tune

I wouldn't be surprised if it has something to do with the ECM. It's been stated over and over that rebuilt units are more problems than solutions and a lot of people end up just buying new ones since some features don't work for some reason after getting it flashed. Does it sound anything like mine? Ended up being a bad injector that I had put in less than 2 months prior to it failing. Do you have a way to monitor the fuel pressure? Are you sure the key way for the VP44 was aligned correctly during the install? And in neutral the truck shouldn't shake at all since there is no connection to the driveline. A few other things to check for is all of your grounds and your alternator to see if it's putting out too much AC noise.

I second everything about this. I thought LED's would be a good idea, while they do provide better illumination over stock, I cannot focus the light at all, It scatters everywhere and high beams are completely unusable. Instead of projecting a beam, it projects rings of light. And if you end up getting ones with a fan cooler and heat fins like I did, getting them to sit flush in the housing will require some very slight modification. All in all not even worth the time and money. Just do it right the first time and get a retrofit kit and use the guide Mopar1973Man posted Here. The direct link to the kit that he used is here. I plan on making the switch after my deployment. Or if you want a full kit ready to go with housings you can contact this guy and see how much he charges for a full P&P kit. I heard its around the $400+ neighborhood.

Oddly enough, I went through the fuse box in the engine bay and swapped the 20A fuse to the ECM and now the WTS light comes on, it's just a little delayed, after all the lights come on and go off, that's when the WTS light comes on, the grid heater cycles as it should and the lift pump does a 2 second prime like it should. Should I be worried about the delay for the WTS light? Will probably be going through all the fuses and replacing them as well as cleaning all the contacts in the fuse box.

There's no code pulled from the JWA, It's also strange that the cruise control light doesn't come on either or rather it rarely comes on even through cruise control will still work, i've got a big list of parts that I need to get but mainly focused on making sure the ECM is good or bad. I really need a spare unit to test with but not many people willing to lend me one lol. But from everything i've read from Mopar1973man every sign leads to the memory on the ECM going bad. And there's no noise from the grid heater or lift pump when i cycle the key like there should be

It'll work when the engine is started, but not when I cycle the key.

Got in the truck today and bumped the key just to see if it'll get the lift pump to prime, and it does not. it only starts when the engine fires. Will have to search around and find one someone will let me borrow and will report back. Sucks not having a grid heater and fuel prime during these 30 degree starts.

More specifically I was talking about the piece of foam that's behind the clutch sensor but I might just twist the two wires together. I did the cluster test and the wait to start light never came on so i'll have to pull the cluster out and inspect the bulb soon. But not throwing a code and not having my lift pump prime on key on makes me think the ECM is about to die. Just have to find someone who has one around here and check it

Correct, the fuel temp sensor is located in the VP44

How would the ECM detect this? My clutch safety switch hasn't been working for a while now so in order to start the truck i have to get underneath the dashboard and actually pull up on the switch. I'm not sure why it doesn't engage when I push in the clutch pedal. I noticed when I had to replace all the hydraulics for the clutch a little piece of foam fell out from behind the switch and it hasn't worked since. I've looked online for the part but I can't find it anywhere

I can swing by my hobby shop on base and use their scanner. It's a Snapon Modis Ultra so it should be able to read all codes if there are any stored in the ECM. I can reset the apps and only do one throttle cycle and see if that changes anything. I've done that before in the past and it's always gone back to 89%. I use the Xtreme Diesel fuel additive on every fill up, I was wondering if the DAP injectors could cause the problem because when I first installed them the take off torque in second was good and didn't have a problem.. My fuel economy in cab reads 25-26 MPG highway but after doing the math on my 500 mile trip to San Antonio it came out to 18.9 highway. Never tried 2 stroke oil. How could I look into the IP and diagnose it? It's just odd that the only lack of power is during take off while it's at idle. And as far as AC voltage I haven't checked it except for reading what it's putting out on the dash and it's within the limits on the gauge and the EJWA reads 14.3V at idle That's what I read from other people, something about the memory getting full on the ECM. I'll have to check the bulb when I get time if that's what you're talking about. Another weird thing I noticed is that the Cruise light didn't come on for about 2 months and it just recently came on a week ago while I was driving to San Antonio about a week ago. Would that be another cause of the ECM dying? And what exactly is entailed when you say do a cluster test? Another thing I had a few months ago was a trouble code that said something along the lines of the ECM and VP44 did not agree. I haven't had it in a while but when it happened the truck had a massive missfire

I monitor everything from the Edge Juice With Attitude. My fuel pressure is 17-18PSI at idle 15-16 while cruising and 12-13 under WOT. I just replaced the fuel filters about 1000 miles ago and didn't change anything. As far as the VP goes, I'm not sure how many miles are on the VP44 but it'll idle fine when warm, a slight miss when cold. It'll pull hard with no hesitation steady up to 3250RPM, Haven't bounced off redline yet. And I did reset the APPS sensor when I put the new one in. DAP suggests doing a key on/key off 3 times, the first time I noticed it went to 98%, the second time it went to 93% and the final key on went to 89% and it stays there now. As far as the OBDII scammer goes, the EJWA can scan for codes and I'm not throwing any codes.

I have a couple of issues with my 1999 24v that's been bugging me. 1. Lately it's been getting cold here in New Mexico and I noticed that my grid heater doesn't cycle until the engine has been started. The wait to start light never comes on anymore, not even for a split second, and my lift pump no longer does the 1-2 second prime before engine start. Is it a bad ECM? 2. My truck is a 5 speed nv4500, when I first picked it up I used to be able to take off from a dead stop in second gear just fine, plenty of torque to get it to move even starting on an incline. Now I have to start off in first gear slowly, it feels like it's hesitating/bogging down. I can't even think about second gear starts anymore. I'm not sure what it could be. 3. I just replaced my APPS sensor thinking the old one was the problem but I guess not, followed all directions as stated on the piece of paper I got from DAP. When I monitor the throttle % on my Edge monitor it'll only go up to 89% at WOT, I'm stumped on what it could be. I've cleaned all the contacts in the engine bay, replaced the alternator trying to make sure it's not any noise causing it to read but it's still only goes up to 89%. My mods are: 1999 ram 2500 24v 5 speed w/351k miles, Edge Juice with Attitude, DAP 7x.009 SAC injectors, AFE Intake manifold, BD pulse manifold, Head studs, FASS 150, BHAF. The truck doesn't throw any CEL's or codes scanning with the Edge. Any advice is appreciated