Cronus577

As the title states, I while installing my Wicked Wheel on my HX35W I snapped the tip of the shaft off getting it tight. I know the instructions say to get it hand tight but it was seized and would not spin freely at all. The tighter I got it the looser it got and spun a little more freely until it snapped. It's for a 99 manual truck. I'm not trying to buy anything that's not genuine, I would buy just the center piece but my exhaust housing has been rusted to the point where it will not budge and I need to clock it for the compound turbo setup.

I followed a video and used a flat head and a hammer to put mine on, fell back off two days later. I ended up using a pipe wrench to get it snug and then using an impact hammer to get it tight all the way, hasn't come off yet. But now I have a fully built NV4500 in the back of my truck ready to go in, fully splined output shaft and 1 3/8" input shaft. But yeah would not recommend flathead/chisel and hammer combo

Fully splined output shaft with a lock nut. If it's a 4x4 there's a splined nut holder that makes it to where the nut can't back off. You can find it here: 4x4 5th gear locker

I'll have to check out different tunes once I get the compound turbos, DD clutch and build NV4500 in the truck! I have a zip file with a bunch of tunes that I found online. I tried using Quadzilla's website where they list all the different tunes available but couldn't figure out how to download them. So a download repository would be really nice!

So about a year ago I had purchased an Edge Juice With Attitude and a CS2 monitor while on the search for a bump in performance. Before that I had an old Diablo power puck, the power gains were definitely noticeable. I went on driving with the EJWA and loved the power it made but hated the amount of smoke it produced. During my last deployment I was reading up on here and I kept seeing Mopar1973man's article about switching over to a Quadzilla and the different features that were available with it and I thought to my self "It can't be better than my EJWA, they're both wiretap tuners". I did a little more research and saw that the V2 tuning was going to allow for custom tunes which my tuner at the time did not and I knew that would be a handy feature for when I put on my compound setup. I decided to go ahead and pull the plug on the Quadzilla iQuad just to test it out to see if it would live up to the hype, even though I had my doubts. I got around to pulling my EJWA yesterday and hooked up the Quadzilla with the Standard Fuel tune, setup my phone with my gauges, and took off for a test drive. I was absolutely blown away, I thought there would be very minimal changes on how the truck was going to drive but I was dead WRONG. I noticed a huge reduction in low boost smoke, exactly what I wanted! But not only that, the amount of power it delivers is also a day and night difference. I'm legitimately scared to do any pulls at WOT. The way the Quadzilla handles timing and fueling feels completely different than the EJWA. The engine idles smoother and the power kicks in much harder. I'm pretty sure I'm slipping the clutch on level 10 at 50% throttle, something the EJWA never did at level 5 at 100% throttle. (Good thing I have a Velair DD waiting to go in this week). The truck now feels like an absolute animal and I can't wait to start messing with the custom tuning when I put in my compound setup this week. Now all I need is some 3.54/3.55 gearing so that I can get even better gas mileage during my frequent 8 hour drives from New Mexico to San Antonio, I just hope I don't get into any trouble with this beast.

So much better, is the driver's side light supposed to be lower so you don't blind oncoming driver's?

Will have to take a look at this and figure something out, I just want whatever unit to be tested and is properly functioning to make sure the AC noise is within tolerance because i'm pretty sure my ECM is about to take a dump with my FASS not priming until my WTS light comes on which is anywhere between instantly and 20 seconds or so.

What's the best option for alternator replacements? Pretty sure mine is on its way out after only a few months of use. I see Mean Green all over performance websites but have also heard Nations is good but they don't carry one for a 1999 without spending $600+ for the high amp

Is there a benefit to having 8x injector holes over 7x? Still trying to figure this out. Will I be fine to run my 7x.009SAC injectors for a while, while I figure out what i'm going to do?

I plan on building a custom tune on my Quadzilla. Would 6x.013's be better if I backed down the fuel at low boost and ramped it up smoothly into high boost? And is there a big difference between 7 hole and 6 hole?

Dang, they're not showing any in stock for mine unless I'm wanting to fork out almost $700 for their high output one.

Might be in the market for a new alternator soon and was wondering if the 01-02 is the same as the 99. I'm 99% sure that it is but don't want to pull the trigger and find out that it doesn't fit.

Do you have any pictures of the housings all closed up on the truck? Still trying to figure out what color to paint mine. Not sure if I should go a smoked or color match it to the same color as my truck.

Looking for some advice on which injectors to go. I currently have DAP 7.009 SAC (100hp) and was looking at going bigger to match the compound turbos I'll be putting in. I'm currently running a Borg Warner S475/92/1.10 over stock HX35 with the billet Wicked Wheel 2 compressor blade. I'll be doing light towing every once in a while ~6k lbs. Also switching up my setup from an EJWA to an Adrenaline so I know there's going to be a lot more fueling customization once I learn the unit. Anybody have any suggestions on a good clean burning injector that would match my setup?

Just ordered mine, pretty expensive for the retrofit but I can't wait to have a good lighting. Right now i'm just running some 9004 LED's but they don't project properly. Not sure if I want to paint the housings or not, I'm liking how that grey and black look!

I'm not an expert at automatic transmissions but if it sounds like metal on metal when TC is locked it sounds like 4th gear might be gone. And have you done a compression check or checked for blow by to see if your cylinders aren't getting washed causing the fuel to slip by your rings and get into the oil? Didn't think .009's would cause any issues over fueling.

What is the sound? Getting fuel in oil and continuing to drive can cause your engine to spin a bearing.

The tappet cover is under the intake manifold. Ignore the box for the 53 block

Time to check and replace all the injector and crossover tube O-rings as well as the copper washers that go around the tip of the injector. Sounds like the cylinder pressure is causing fuel to get pushed past the washer and o-ring and getting into the head. Wouldn't drive it with it like that though, wouldn't want to run the risk of spinning a bearing.

Pinout and bar pressure need to be the same. If you get a different bar sensor it might read incorrect or not at all

I would worry about studs before springs and rods at 49PSI and below. I doubt you'll be boosting that much with a single 62/68/12 for a long duration due to toasty EGT's. But would definitely consider it in the future for peace of mind. There's an article floating around that I can't find right now that gives you a bunch of info about upgraded valve springs for cheap. I believe they're the same ones that are for a dodge neon. I'd link it but can't seem to find it anymore.

What alternator brand would you recommend getting? I feel like the off-the-shelf rebuilt ones from Orileys probably aren't worth a great deal in quality.

DAP Also has EXCELLENT customer service. Heard people using BlueChip as well but have seen mixed reviews

I've got a pretty good setup that I like a lot in my truck. The Farenheit TID-893B which is a great budget head unit with a 7" pop up LCD screen that can play movies for passengers as long as you don't hook up the ground for it. It's got Bluetooth as well to connect to a phone and an AUX connector right in the front. If you don't want to use an AUX cable, you can also put music on an SD card and load it behind the face of the head unit or plug in a USB card and play it from that. Picked it up from a local guy but it's the same one as this one Here. It's got 3 angle tilt that can be used to avoid the AC vents. All-in-all I like it a lot. Can also buy a back-up camera and attach it so you can see what's behind you when you're backing up. I hardly ever use the touch screen so I keep it folded in for the most part to give it a clean look.

This is the front part of my head gasket when I redid mine, wasn't leaking or anything but after 348,000 miles I figured it was time to replace it. It was literally falling apart and I have no idea what that sand like substance on the top right was, but It's a good thing I replaced it. Probably the same thing for you, failing at the coolant passage port.