Cronus577

1st gear take offs on hills sucks lol. Traveling half way across the country 3 times this week

It's just on stock standard_fuel right now, so can't do that

Pulm VP? I can check compression once I'm done moving but that will be a week or more from now and after I buy a compression checker which isn't readily available unfortunately

I'm thinking it's right about time to replace it, I don't know if it's the stock VP with now 357k miles on it or if it's a reman. Just seems like for my setup I should feel more power and not be so laggy, im only pushing 5-10 lbs of boost below 2k rpm and then it shoots up to 50+ but anything on the low end is laggggggy I doubt I have a boost leak, all boots and clamps have been replaced, and everything in the engine bay has been double checked for tightness

Just finished an 8 hour drive and I'm noticing my truck is lacking power at operating temperature, used to have no issues with taking off in 2nd when I had a FASS DDRP and stock injectors but now it struggles taking off in first while at operating temps. *My fuel pressure at idle used to be around 9-10 at WOT it would drop to 0. This was when I first got the truck and knew nothing about it a few years ago now I have a FASS 150 with a sump and the gauge sits at 15psi and 14psi under WOT*. But I ran it like that for a couple of months just thinking above 0 was good enough. Fast forward to knowing what I know now, I'm pretty certain that I've damaged it and now I've got a weak VP44 but I don't have any codes or a CEL. All mods are in my signature, my iQuad shows my timing is moving properly as far as I know, it doesn't seem stuck or anything, no hard start issues. Thoughts? Replace it or just send it? On another note, the sluggish take offs could be map sensor related, but I see full sweep of 0 to 57 on the iquad while getting up to operating temps with plenty of power and my ISSPRO gauge can verify but when it's fully warmed up I get about 0 to 45 on the map sensor while the ISSPRO will still read 50+

@015point9 im still pondering the reserve, free cross train into cyber security, keep my tricare for the wife and I, extra $300 a month, doesn't sound like such a bad deal. Especially since I wouldn't have to pay for school!

Well, today is my final day of active duty military. Served my 6 years as AMMO and getting out to go to school and persue a career in IP Security. As my parting gift, my flight made me this, 105MM shell that I hope @Mopar1973Man doesn't get mad at me for or trademarks. I've always been known to go to work from 7-3 go straight to the auto shop from 3-8, never taking a lunch break to work on the truck. I.Y.A.A.Y.A.S

Don't get an OEM Cummins rear main seal, did that 2 weeks ago and it didn't seal. Went to O'Riley's and got a felpro seal and the bracket gasket for around $40 and it came with the seal driver to get it flush. The Felpro gasket sealed perfectly, haven't had any issues in 1k miles. Orange is the New Cummins seal and black is the Felpro

@TJ_00Cummins This might help you find your cruise settings.

So, do you recommend I take off the tail housing and check anyway? He's a reputable builder and a lot of people recommend him. I think this might be a case of I got the short stick. I'm probably going to go change the diff fluid today anyway so I could check, I just don't have the transmission fluid. Had to order the gallon of Lucas 50w Full Synthetic

I did notice a little bit of rust on the gate of 5th and reverse when I pulled the shifter tower, I bought the transmission while I was deployed so it sat in a garage for about 3 months before it got put it. I'm hoping that it could just be a little bit of rust causing the bind. It seemed smooth this morning but I'll continue to monitor it. I'm going to be going to his shop at the beginning of October to drop off my old transmission since I'll be in the area for a couple of weeks anyway. He knows about it so he's willing to work with me on it.

I got a power & heated pair from Ebay for $134.98 shipped to my door from a seller named Advance Tuning LLC (ebay4car@gmail.com). I would send the link but gov computer has Ebay on lock down. They vibrate on bumpy roads, which I would expect, but on smooth roads they don't move at all.

"Common. It's not the nut, it's the shifter and shift gates in the top of the trans. They tend to "jump gates" not much we can do about that problem, it's a design flaw. But once you get it back out of gear. It should be normal again.. is it still messed up, or does it work fine now? Just go easy down shifting from 5th. Make sure you don't move the stick until the clutch is completely released IF it continues to give you trouble, we'll swap tops. But no way of knowing if one is better than another I had that problem with my old nv4500's in my big truck. No simple fixes to speak of. Some tops do it, some don't. No way to tell. They all look the same and all come from the same place. But I will send you a different one if it doesn't quit doing that. We have probably 40 of those tops." At least he's confirming that there might be a problem, I adjusted the clutch last night and on my drive to work this morning it seemed to shift better and not take as long to get into gear, 5th came out smooth like it should. Seems to be an on/off problem, no real sign of knowing if it will stick or not.

I went and adjusted the hydraulics so that the pedal has more throw to it, maybe this has something to do with it. Velair's HD hydraulics say the clutch should engage 2-3" off the floor which would put the clutch pedal nearly identical as the brake pedal which is where I had it but this seemed to to engage right around an 1½-2 inches off the ground or so. I'll try to measure it but I went off of an eyeball in my driveway. Also have my single disk clutch just taking up space if anybody wants it. Probably has 20k miles on it, thought my clutch went out and had a 2 days to get it fixed before an 8 hour drive to Texas so got this one from O'riley's, ended up just being a pilot bearing.

Yeah but it might work if the main shaft is fully splined but I'll see. If it is I'll get one for it, if not then I'll have to use the same method I did on my last transmission, after using pipe wrenches as tight as I could get it. An impact hammer made sure it wasn't coming if, did about 30k miles that way and it didn't come back off. But that's IF it's even the nut. But since its able to go in and out with the truck on and the clutch in I'm assuming it has to be something with the lock nut. Since it's only locking in 5th after rotational force

Got to use my new tool kit, it's a Pittsburgh, someone stole my Craftsman last weekend. Pulled the shift tower, everything was tight. Put it back on and ran through the gears and everything seems normal. Might pull it into the shop tomorrow and pop off the tail housing and see what's going on with the 5th gear nut. It would make sense to me that it was the nut because everything was fine for the first 300 miles or so. Then out of nowhere this happens. Just sucks that if it is the nut, on a fresh rebuild it want torqued correctly. Not to mention it's supposed to be a fully splined main shaft to prevent the issue

I tried pumping the clutch, while the truck is running in neutral with the clutch in I can get it into every gear including 5th and it'll come right out as well. I put it in 5th at a dead stop and slowly let out on the clutch and pushed the clutch back in and 5th gear out like it should, it only seemed to do it after I had been up to speed rolling in 5th for a while.

Just put in a rebuilt NV4500 with a 1.375" input shaft, and fully splined output shaft. The guy who rebuilt it told me to use 50w full synthetic which I did, 1 gallon of Lucas 50w full synthetic was used. Drove it around town around 150 miles breaking in the new clutch, no issues, drove it this morning from Clovis NM to Lubbock Texas, it's a straight shot but some of the town the road runs through slows down to 30mph, no issues down shifting. There are also a few lights on this road that I had to stop at from 75, again no issues. Driving back to Clovis about an hour into the drive I went to pull off to a gas station and get a drink and it did not want to come out of 5th. Shut the truck off, pushed in the clutch while trying to get it to come out. After a few minutes of this it finally releases like normal, seemed to just slide right out with no binding. Jumped on the highway and got up to 75, wondering if it was just a 1 time thing tried to pull it out of 5th and it slid right out. Coming up to a town and needing to slow down I tried to pull it out of 5th and it didn't want to release, this time just holding in the clutch and shifting like I was trying to go into 5th a little more and then pulling it into neutral seemed to do the trick. 5th gear doesn't seem any harder than any other gear to get into, all of the rest of the gears including reverse go in just fine. I'm no stranger to losing 5th gear, happened twice on my old transmission both times within 20 minutes of my 8 hour drive from San Antonio Texas to Clovis Nm. Does anybody know what the issue is or what could be causing the hang up? There were no indicators before this happened, no grinding or funny noises, no loud humming, just normal cruising and then stuck. Could this be a 5th gear nut? If so simple fix for me. But if it's anything else I could be in a bit of a pickle. I have a trip from Clovis to San Antonio coming up in the beginning of October so would like to have this sorted out before then

I went to pop it out already but the paint is cracked and wanted to flake off a big piece so I just stopped. Finished the Rear main seal, Velair DD clutch and rebuilt trans install about 2 and a half hours ago and put almost 70 miles on it. Last Friday I got a pivot ball for another "just in case" and well.. But the new clutch is pretty and no more third gear grind which is nice. But the DD nature shifts like a tank

Cannon AFB New Mexico

@Dieselfuture yeah the felpro is the top and it sealed perfectly. The Cummins one is the one on the bottom. The white part is dust seal, It was straight but I tried to push it in a little to see if it would seal. It had the metal ring in it to make it seal correctly and it would have worked but the seal never expanded to meet the crank. I couldn't convince myself to believe that it would expand, I ended up pulling it and trying to push the crank seal out and I got it to touch the crank but I could see a hairline gap still so I threw it out and put in the felpro and it's golden. Just put on the flywheel before the shop closed so should have it finished tomorrow. Going to suck having to keep my foot out of it while breaking in the clutch, I really want to get that dent in the bed fixed from where someone on base where I lived hit me and left no information

I believe so. There's no RTV anywhere and the oil pan gasket for the bottom of the seal housing was still there, so unless the previous owner(s) lifted the engine and did the oil pan gasket if/when the rear main seal was replaced or they did it without pulling off the housing it would be stock oem gasket. I installed the oem Cummins one and the seal was way off, both the dust gasket and the oil gasket was about a quarter of an inch away from the crank. One of the guys that was working on his Powerstroke came over and was like and I quote "it'll probably expand once it warms up".. I was like naaahhh I don't think this is right at all. So I ran and got a felpro seal which seals 100x better.. Felpro vs NEW OEM Cummins gasket

Thanks, putting in a rebuilt trans and velair clutch, luckily I bought a rear main for just in case

Under the truck right now and I'm not seeing and kind of padding in between the tank and the strap

That's where a wire tap would come in commanding the vp44 to fuel more than stock. But if we're talking about an untapped vp44 with nothing more than larger injectors there's no way it would reach 650hp. But once you tap the vp44 I would no longer say that it's "stock with injectors" because a tap would imply a tuner that handles above stock fueling. If you see what I'm saying