AlpineRAM

I cleaned my motor and put in new bearings, from some R/C model IIRC, and the fan lasts some years since then. It usually overloads the resistor if the fan bearing gets hard to turn, increasing the amperage on the motor..

This looks like the blower motor resistor- easily swapped even without removing the dash and hvac stuff. I would check the connectors first, maybe you did not plug it in correctly.

Found one on ebay Germany. Reasonable shipping and no customs duties. The part No. is 04720279AB if you need one. Thanks!

Well, wrecking yard with a Dodge in Austria will be difficult- and the dealers over here do not supply spare parts... I'll try to contact a dealer stateside. Thanks!

Hi folks, I am looking for the vac. actuator that opens the dash vents on a 97 Dodge Ram - it's the one with the yellow vac line. This one munched it's diaphragm and I need a new one. Anybody got an idea as to where to get it for a reasonable price? Thanks!

OK, sorry, should have said connected on pin3 ECM side.. As Mopar1973Man, brantcummins and Haggar correctly observed. Have some experience with buggered shielding on slightly bigger wiring- mainly power bus on 50kW frequency controllers... do the shielding in an alternative way and you know where the term "sparky" comes from...

I seem to be late for the party For the 4cyl version in English https://vrcustoms.wordpress.com/2015/05/18/vp-44-electronic-module-repair-opel-2-0-dti-x20dtly20dtl/ and here

I have one, and it aids the truck not to hoover up gravel roads into the rad at low speeds at high rpm.

The wire strands are the shielding of the VP44 datalink to the ECM. Needs to be there, needs to be connected to pin 3 according to diagram.

Take a ruler and mark 5.2" from the top of a legal pad. Cut a stripe of about 1/2" from the right top to the mark you made. Hold bolt flange to top of legal pad. Over here I check them in metric measurements, and use an A4 pad. I never got the right Cummins gauge in any set I bought. I prefer to use the stock measurements as per cummins and grind away the same amount as I removed when resurfacing the head and I mark the bolt as shortened with the letter S on the head. (So nobody uses the gauge to check a shortened bolt)

P0123 TPS A high P1694 No message from powertrain control module. Sounds like a wiring issue to me, but check all the fuses first.. The diesels are a bit strange because there is the PCM like in the gassers and also the ECM on the engine. If they do not communicate correctly the VP44 will be told not to inject fuel. The "hotwire" test lets you start the engine without any involvement of ECM and PCM.

Do you have gauges? I know, not free, don't add power... but keep your engine safe.. Then you can do the governor washer mod.. ok not really free but 2pcs 1/2" washer are cheap. Different forum About air- bailing wire to the wastegate (almost free) to get the boost up- or get either an adjustable elbow (cheap) or a regulator to control your wastegate. And: You assume the full responsibility for any of these mentioned modifications. I am in no way to be held liable if your truck explodes, hurts people or gets you into trouble for environmental issues.

Yep- you need 22 units of mass of air to burn 1 unit of mass of diesel cleanly and make power. More air than is needed to burn the fuel is the standard operating situation of your truck. (But you do not need to buy air..) More fuel than there is air to burn it- simple waste. goes out the exhaust with no power added. So, without a plate you will need to add air to get your fuel to burn. Personally I prefer to set things up with a plate and a governor spring kit- you get the revs and the plate and AFC take care of the max fueling, giving good drieveability and decent fuel economy, and no excuse for the environmentalists to point their "green" fingers at me.

Cool that the UK hates diesels for soot or particulate matter while the DI gassers emit much more of it.. NOx as the red flag in the other countries is understandable, but with SCR cat tech it can be reduced to almost nil... if the car manufacturers do not cheat (I'm looking at you Volkswagen!)

In th UK diesel is a bit (about 4%) more expensive than petrol. In Austria petrol is about 6-7% more expensive than diesel. (Except for some strange fluctuations sometimes- mostly for advertising purposes) But for both we are close to 6 US$/gal, and the poor sods in the UK are closer to 6.50 US$/gal of diesel. Still, if you drive much the diesel is economically viable due to the better mileage. The new turbo direct injection gassers start to change that game though..

Pour point is not really the point there- cloud point is much more interesting. At cloud point you start plugging filters. And it's the cloud point of the mixture- not the product you buy. If they mix 90% lube with 10% "cold additive" there is the distinct possibility that the cold additive will get dissolved in the 98% diesel (running 1:50 for the sake of argument) and leaving the base oil as a crystalline mess in your filter. This is strongly dependant on the fuel and oil chemistry you have in your tank. (And not easily reproducable on a different continent) Since 2 stroke oil is made to be either injected in it's pure form (where pour point gets interesting), or dissolved in gasoline (which is processed almost unfiltered by diesel standards, and gasoline having a cloud point below any reasonable operating temperature, and gasoline being a cold temperature solvent for the 2 stroke oil) the effects of mixing it with diesel are hard to predict. Therefore it is beneficial to state the product names of all the involved components and the location of purchase, since the same product may have a different formulation depending on the location. ( Don't ask me how much work it was to get my truck back to working order after filling up with diesel from Sicily and getting to park it in freezing weather in the mountains some days later)

Snowmobile 2cycle is in the "hen's teeth" category over here. I used ELF LubHTX976- with a bit of cerium salts added, so with a mixture of the oil/diesel 1/800 I get about 3,5 ppm cerium in the mixture.

Well, about the 2stroke oil- we found that with some sorts of diesel fuel the 2stroke oil did not improve HFRR ratings at all. What it always did was to decrease cold tolerance, mainly plugged up fuel filters when cold.

You would need a sledgehammer or some explosives to top that

Premium diesel like MaxxMotion have an HFRR of 269, the 460 you mentioned is the absolute maximum that is allowed in the specs to be sold as diesel fuel. The obligatory addition of up to 7% biodiesel makes for HFRR in the typical range of 300-330 in Austria. (IIncluding discount fuel stations) VP44 longevity- all of the VP44s I had to change were due to electronic defects (no bus communication, burnt components on the PCB) , the pumps were still OK mechanically. On average the trucks with pump defects were at about 400 000 kms. (But a lot of them were badly neglected, fuel filter never changed, no fuel pressure from the lift pump for a long time, jump starting due to bad batteries and often bad alternators) In the excavators and other machinery with the 24V engine the normal lifetime of the VP44 was over 10 000 hours if the machinery was taken care of. (Most of the machines were sold off at 10-12k hours, most with the stock IP still running strong) A notable exception was a stone crusher that ate VP44s at a rate of 1VP44 per 80 hours. No lift pump, fuel tank about 2 meters below the IP, letting the tank run dry frequently and starting until the IP had re-primed itself after running out. (Don't ask me how many starters they used... )

Yep, from Austria!

My opinion is that you should first define your power goals and your driving goals and then start to save and build. I have re-done a lot of steps, thrown away a lot of expensive parts and had a lot of inconvenient breakdowns from not follwing this advice. I also did a box first, burnt tranny, built tranny to box, got injectors, got air to use injectors, re-built tranny for box+injectors+air, did modify injectors, did change from box to programmer, re-built tranny to cope, changed program, got more air- added fuel- wrecked tranny etc.. And the advice to add power and drive it like a granny- rubbish! Change the leverage on the go pedal and be done- why add power for money and then refrain from using it because it will cost more money- the same result can be had by pressing the accelerator pedal to the firewall. Right now your transmission limits you, and you spend money for not having to move your right foot an inch more. My advice- plan first, implement later..... I wish I could recuperate 1% of the costs of not following this path- could buy some nice toys..

Yup, straight edge and feeler gauge to the head and to the block- as stated in the Cummins manual. If in spec- no worries for a stock build If not- do what's necessary to get back into spec Personally I prefer to remove head bolts in inverse order of the tightening sequence- but the tightening sequence looks after "squishing" the head gasket outwards and not having "ripples" or "folds" in the middle- and you will put in a new head gasket and it should not matter in which sequence the bolts were loosened on the old gasket- if the head and block check out as flat and crack-free.

I'd go for a simpler version- standard automotive relay with an NC (normally closed) contact. Wire as follows- supply of the fuel pump is switched by the relay through the NC contact. Coil of the relay between starter solenoid output and ground. While the starter is running no power to the lift pump. HTH

Well I know that list.. but where I saw some problems was that with a slightly altered engine (cam, pistons, injectors, turbo, smarty) and a slightly altered transmission (TC, number of clutches, valvebody) it can get a bit difficult to tune the lockup system. (especially while driving in the mountains with a lot of bends and switchbacks)