bjytech

I think I do, I'll check when I get back on my computer. Now back on topic lol

I have the dodge NV4500 service manual in PDF, never thought to upload it till now. I also have a parts breakdown PDF, I'll upload them now so we all have access to them. I'd be interested to see what you used for specialty tools for the transmission, I've had mine partially apart for a 5th/reverse sychro dog issue and also found 5th gear nut backed off, I just did a band-aid fix for 5th at the time but someday I'm going to have to put the updated mainshaft in it.

I'm coming up with a part number of 04723395 for the master cylinder to booster seal.

Seeing the pistons coated in assembly lube worried me too, that thing will smoke for quite a while after it's started with all that stuff in there.

Stock hx35 would be a 56/58/12, he changed both wheels, the shaft ,and it goes back together with a 360° thrust bearing. He machines them, what all machine work he does I'm not sure though. I can spool my turbo up by about 1500-1700 RPM and it will clean up my 5x.014 injectors pretty good.

My truck is my daily driver but u like to play with it in the workstock pulls. I can't speak for the autos but with my truck i usually see around 19mpg.

I just have a stock cummins replacement on it, my old original one was ticking so I put a new one on it to fix that but after taking my old one apart all I think it needs is a new return spring to get rid of the tick. Some say the lift pump direct from cummins has a stronger return spring in it than one from dodge but I don't have any proof to back that up. (the return spring is what does the pump stroke to pressurize the fuel)

The ppump actually likes more pressure than the vp44, with my upgrades I have my pressure set to about 30 at idle and see up to 50psi when above 2000 rpm.(it will suck down to the 20's when getting on it though since I just have the stock lift pump still) On a basically stock truck though idle pressure should be around 25 psi and 30psi at 2000 rpm. The overflow valve on the return line coming out of the injection pump is the most common reason for fuel pressure dropping on 12v's due to the spring getting weak over time, all it takes to fix it though is a trip to the hardware store to get a spring and some time to tune the length of the spring to get the pressure back up to spec. ( There's something I should write down to do a article on) Most people say after market fuel pumps arnt needed on the 12v till 500hp.

Yes it would, forgot to put that part in my other post haha

The end of last month I upgraded my turbo to a 63/67/12 HX35, to look at it it looks just like a stock turbo... be she gets up and runs good. The guy that built if for me builds a 62/65 he351cw that guys are making up to 620hp out of on 3rd gens. I've been meaning to get a post together about the things I've done to my truck lately but I just haven't taken the time to do it.

97 auto trans truck like Paul is looking at would have a 180hp p7100 so would have static timing, if you get a 96-97 with the 5speed and 215hp p7100 it retards timing some as rack travel increases(giving it more fuel), up to about 4°(if I remember correctly) retarded from whatever the static timing is set at. There are no fuel pumps other than the one that is mounted on the engine on a 12v.

12v's use a mechanical piston lift pump that is run off a lobe on the cam, very reliable. only thing I've ever seen go bad in them is the return spring getting weak over time.

sounds like a nice truck and, as long as the engine is all stock only thing that comes to mind is to ask if anything has been done with the KDP, and see whats been done with the transmission, other than that just cover the basics like on any vehicle, being a 97 if they haven't been replaced already some things to check on are shocks, front end parts (ball joints, track bar, etc.), fuel lines, and other rubber parts, like the tappet cover gasket.

Try it for a 6.7 instead, early 07 were the last trucks to get the 5.9 and it never had a DPF ;)

Yes they are metric M10 x 1.5 x 60

I recommend replacing the whole assembly as well. My dad has a 2wd dodge and we tried replacing the ball joints and bushings but removing the old ball joints ruins the sleeve they go in on the a arm most of the time so that new ball joints never tightend up. We ended up having to replace the assembly anyway. I will never try replacing just the ball joints again on that truck, you're time and money ahead to replace the whole assembly and be done.

The idle screw is on the back side of the pump (head side), you would screw it in to raise the idle and screw it out to lower it. I believe the lock nut on the screw is 10mm. Here is a picture showing the idle screw.

According to cummins 1250°F pre-turbo is max safe sustained temp.

Just throwing this out there since I haven't seen any mention of it yet but have you tried the simple things like a new air filter or checking for boost leaks?

Here's a video of a Cat 3406 we had let go about 2 years ago, I can't imagine what it was like in the truck when it happened. It let go going down a hill and we think the truck got away from the driver and he possibly threw the jakes on to try to get it to slow down but it didn't work out..

Seeing this post here got me to thinking about creating a thread where we can all share engine/vehicle carnage we have experienced. I'll start out with some pictures from the latest engine failure that I worked on, Had one of the trucks with a ISX lose oil pressure and of course all kinds of bad things happened then...

With 500hp it would probably be one of the big articulating tractors like a 9500 series. I can see it costing $100k for the engine and all labor involved, a tractor like that new would probably cost around $300-400K. I just got done a couple weeks ago putting a used cummins ISX in a truck at work after the original lost oil pressure and took #3 liner and piston out as well as the crank and cams, and it cost about $15k just for the engine(original engine was rebuild-able but would have cost more than a used one to do it), and to get a reman engine from cummins would have been $30k, and thats all without any labor added in at all. the prices of these newer engines is crazy.

I believe it was scheid that made something exactly like that a few years back but it never took off, one reason I think I'd because most guys that modify these truck to the point where it would need that to control full fuel just use their foot to control the the fuel since its cheap and easy. Timing is only one small piece of the puzzle in getting optimal mpg. Just driving style alone can account for a 30% change in mpg

It all depends on what application the dt466 was used in. Getting a pump off of one that was in a school bus for example chances are it will have 11mm plungers and be rated at 190hp. Dodge/Cummins pumps use 12mm plungers.

Back a few years ago my dad had some trouble with the HPOP in his 99 F-450 with the 7.3L and after the money he had to put into that engine to get it going again he wishes he would have just swapped the cummins out of his old 91 dodge into his ford, it would have been cheaper for him and gave him more power. His 7.3 is a turd for some reason, always has been. his old dodge with 2000lb behind it could out pull his ford empty up a hill with ease, heck one hill around here it cant even stay the speed limit when empty going up it and I can pull it with a whole skid of shingles in the back of my truck at 55 and keep my EGT's in check.