s10010001

yup, 0.012.. thats pretty good if you ask me

Updating this thread too in in case someone is searching here and see this. Go to the Nations alternator in today. .012. Pretty good. I did have to drill the charge lead hole a bit bigger, but it was quick and easy.

Follow up on this, I finally got around to installing it. .012, holy crap, I measured my old alternator just before I pulled it and it was .042.

Ouch, that’s 20 hours for me...

Well hot damn... good stuff man. Very interesting. edit: I’ll start saving my pennies for a built trans edit2: where is @Dynamic shop? I wish I knew of a knowledgeable builder down here in so-cal. But I’m willing to make a vaca for a new trans at some point if it means I get a good one. (And it’s on the west coast haha)

But arnt the “built” VBs just pre-shift kitted setups? id love a built trans, then I can boost some hp. But I just had mine rebuilt, billet TC and some vb work he did on his own. (Like flow in Park) so I’m stuck with it until I get my money out of it. How about a pre built vb? Worth the time on a stock (billit tc) trans?

No heated debate, we’re not sensitive here right guys? hehe. I’m just going off what I have heard and read. It does see a bit odd that a 100$ kit can do much to a trans that dodge couldn’t dont from the factory. I was just just genuinely wonder why. I guess to me it seems like a good simple upgrade. Like a billet tc and shift kit to make a stocking truck happy.

Everything I have read says the Transgo SK TFOD-DISEL is the best one. But I'm all ears. Edit: don’t get me wrong, a built trans is the way to go but isn’t a well built vb the heart of a good trans? And isn’t a shift kit a key component? Again, I’m no expert, all ears.

I got em on amazon, I think they were 45 for both of them. I just wish I bought the 72” not the 60”. Theses fit, nearly perfect, but I could have routed the better with 12 more inches. Ohh well..

lol that’s pretty legit actually. I was considering just putting my gauge under the hood to check from time to time some since I’m on a mechanical pump... but ended up keeping it on the pillar just because.. but yea, yours sounds cool haha.

Phhhhhh https://5vdnyw.bn.files.1drv.com/y4m9mKc4AdOSJ_N0S-Fcoj_e9FEmLUgO5eyUepPA1zWFOU-19aJQc5bYAuc3H_spXzKfNfwKbLKpxpK0chBnF0liMij-Bm-b8_p3J3YABgsoDG_1vbmcKqv_48Lm-cKekgcUORE7Ueqpz4EklR3Wy_bElZ5ItlA1SBgokOXc5kzLmVYbzhefRSkPJSXm_tZ9I3GwsMiBd5ougO3lkkdgTmV2A?width=3024&height=4032&cropmode=none

I run ISSPRO mechanical too (ev1) I had some problems with the compression fitting, it created a bit of rattling in the gauge too. I changed over to -4an steel line and they have been perfect. I also run fuel straigh to the gauge. No issues with it. Run a snubber and needle valve and even if it did leak it would be drips. I had a leak once I smelled it well before it even leaked enough to drip off the line. Also i I find the isolators a pita to setup, not worth the time and clutter.

Where I had my trans rebuild (middle of nowhere, where it blew) the guy did his own VB mod, i “think” it was based around the shift kit but I’m not certain for sure. I have been meaning to call him and get some details. i have been considering pulling it out and doing the trans go kit myself. That being said, the trans has been just fine and I confirmed it’s flowing in Park so that’s a win. Kinda hard to fix something that ain’t broke.

How did you like the shift kit? Did you do anything special with it, like 2nd lockup mod, higher pressure?

Ohhh boy... I didn’t even read it like that hah! Also I meant buuding the entire trans heheh.

If I could add to this, if you can’t find the noise, what makes you think a mechanic will? Most mechanics won’t give it much time, if the trucks running right, it’s fine. Unless it’s blatantly loud, turns it’s likely obvious what it is. Just saying, being a mechanic doesn’t means they can fix everything.

What TC do you have now? I have a billit in mine, but I don’t know what kind. I’d love to build my own. But I would need a second one to build slowly then install in one day since my truck won’t fit in my garage. I’m not doing it in my driveway.

I think if I absolutely wanted mine on a switch I would do one of those massive high amp switches right inline with the wire going to the battery. That would make it really easy to make it "OEM automatic" if I was in colder weather temporarily. Still have to pop the hood, but for me thats no big deal.

My guess is it would be a mess, but it depends on use case. I’ll bet more often than not, you need them or don’t. For me I’ll need them so infrequently I’ll just pop the hood and hook them back up.

@Me78569 thanks, I dig it

Ohh lookie what showed up!

It’s a Denso Hairpin 180, says right on their site. 12pack as for the ground wire, that’s just a bandaid Dou!!!! Pre coffee work is a big No no... i do understand the difference between ac an dc I promise I am pretty sure I checked it in dc not ac, but my meter is silly how it flips to dc so maybe I wasn’t. It’s just a tiny little icon that says ac or dc.

how should I check the grids amperage draw? I know how to use my clamp meter, just wondering from where? I hooked my grids back up the battery and my clamp over the positive lead coming form the battery. I put the key to on (WTS light came on), I could hear the grids click on. It was sorta jumping around all over the place but it wasn't very high, it was only like .10-.20 amps AC. That doesn't seem right at all. I hadn't started the truck yet this morning it was plenty cold.

Boom! Ca smog passed. He skipped right over the BHAF, likely because it’s attached to a k&n tube.

@IBMobile thanks for the tip on the relay is worked beautifully. I used the plug from my fuel boss Hobbs switch I was no longer using to make a clean “fooler”. I just think I’ll measure the resistance in the relay sometime and make a less bulky plug. I think Rich from GDP should have this as an option for his fuel boss kit. Once plugged in in the code and monitors reset Immediately on their own, looks like I’m ready for my smog check.