leety

Thank you sorry if this is a dumb question what is "Pb blast"? Very clever prying technique.

I decided to take a crack at this just becuase my turbo failed and I love a good 3d puzzle. Please share any info you have that can: 1) teach me something 2) make the adventure easier Any and all fun turbo stories are welcome!!

Sounds like a hassle lol. I should be able to put a little costume over it on the fuse box lid. I could probably build an enclosure out of a spare fuse cover lid and attach it to the actual fuse cover. I’ll try that first. There are other ways around it as well. I know a guy lol

Some of the smog guys here will notice the box in the engine compartment so that’s the thing I will have to conceal somehow. The branding on the device will give it away. I could organize a 2nd cover for it over the fuse box to sweep it under the rug.

What they can’t see won’t hurt me ;-)

Excellent resource. I have used this many times for many things!!

This is exceelent!!! More fun with formulas. Thank you!!!

Very cool thank you for the photograph. I was thinking about that formula and wondering if you would want to put in the number for speed based on the speedometter, which will be innacurate with non-stock OD tires, or use the speed on a GPS (usually fairly precise) or manualy adjust the speed based on a different formula and the actual tires size if non-stock.

I have a NV5600 thanks for all those descriptions. This is one of the great enginnering features on my truck that I really appreciate. It makes it so fun to drive!!!

Thank you. I'm good have something on the way. That looks very nice!!!

Welcome back!

Glad to hear this from you!!!! Now to slather all the fasteners with CLP. That stuff is magical!!!! I had a hynge on an old comm shelter I have that was so loud the entire zip code could her it every time I opened and closed that door. It was like a Halloween Sound Effect. I tried every penetrating oil known to mankind first with marginal improvements. Then someone told me about CLP, so I tried that as well. Thanks to CLP those hynges are silent and totally free swinging. Hopefully that helps me out with this project as well.

Thank you for the info!!! Yes my exhaust brake mounts directly to the turbo. The Turbo Lenny recommended has that flange on it. He said that would be the most approriate turbo for my injectors, exhasut brake set up and overall application. You are recommending the same on that Lenny sugguested fits well with my injectors etc: https://www.dieselautopower.com/s200gx-e-dodge-ram-upgrade-turbo-12769880001 That's a good sign. I love my exahust brake. It's way too much fun! Some shop stole the label off of it.

That is a thing of beauty!!!! Lenny at DAP suggested the S200GX-E DODGE RAM UPGRADE TURBO for my application. Not over done but an upgrade to the stock and a good fit with my Bosch RV 275 Injectors. https://www.dieselautopower.com/s200gx-e-dodge-ram-upgrade-turbo-12769880001 Lenny said this was a easy swap no mods or interface issues. Just a bunch of baked, rusty fasteners to be worried about. He said my exhaust brake would bolt right back on to it. What do you think? @Mopar1973Man Any thoungs?

I knew this day would come. I checked this morning after a seeming fail on my way home last night, according to my guage. Bearing radial clearance test failed. I don't have a tuner in my truck at this point. I will likley put one in later. I was trying to address any and all actual harware issues first to get everything working as best as possible. It looks like @Mopar1973Man is happy with his HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12). Would it make sense for me to put one of these in my truck based on the assummption that I will eventually put a tuner in the truck. Is that a bolt in solution or is there some fancy footwork that would have to be done? Or should I go stock? Or.....? Any other suggestions are welcome. My goal is reliability and best possible gas mileage. I don't care about going fast but do have a resident 1800# camper living on my truck full time and I do some towing here and there. I do drive up and down very steep mountain roads frequetly. I also do a lot of long distance highway driving, with a bit of offroading as well.

Yep it’s very steep twisty mountain roads for me. And a bit of towing.

Thanks that's an awsome calculator!!!!

So armed with the beautiful math of @Mopar1973Man and @LorenS coupled with the best question on the post I attempted to take this picture. Yes it’s blurry but this my actual realty in terms of speed per rpm. So is it possible that a gear change happened by a PO? How can I figure this out?

The quad is something on my short list of considerations. It'll do everything the Edge EZ does and much much more. The quad is not legal in CA but smog happens every 2 years so I just have to swap out a couple items to pass smog. Not biggy. I wanted to get as much smoke gone as I could with the orriginal equiptment. I don't like to solve problems with a bandaid, I'd rather get at the phisical root of the problem and then introduce the the quad on to take it beyond the limitations of the hardware. By correting the issues with the OEM bits first I have gotten most of the smoke to go away. I think my final drive ratio is the last bit of OEM adjustment I need to consider. I believe I have covered all the other contributers to my coal plum at this point.

The edge is definitely legal. The truck had an old on on it when I got it but it was contributing to al full-time coal plume so I deleted it. Most of the plume is gone. That wasn’t the only contributor. I have a BHAF which is not legal. For that I keep an original air box handy so I can swap it in every 2 years for smog. A girls gota do what a girls gota do. That’s not difficult to get around. Tuners are easy enough to temporarily remove every 2 years for smog. I do that with my BHAF

It’s all about Hoopers Rear Ends. They’ve been in the greater LA area since 1976. That’s the place to go.

Good job on the math. You get an A Although I am guilty of leadfootitus, if I want to drive fast it's not going to be in this thing, I'll tell you that much. I mostly just set it at 68-70 mph on cruize control when I'm on the highway and turn the music, really loud! Otherwise I'm out in the dirt or on little mountain roads just creeping along trying not to tip the thing over. Snow is an optional selected adventure. The fun thing about so cal is you could go snowboarding and surfing on the same day if you wanted to. The 4.10 creates a cost issue becuase the carrier has to be changed for that leap to happen. The 3.73 is more economical and I think will do the job just fine. If I want more get-up-and-go, I'm going to address that with a tuner and perhaps a hybrd turbo down the road, but at this point I'm just trying not to overtax the truck by trapping the native power it has in the drive train. I want that power to exit at the asphault or dirt, wichever the case may be. I'm far more interested in reliability and gas mileage than I am speed, that's what "performance" looks like to me on this truck. I would like not to have to stuggle up along steep grade quite so much, esp when towing something.

Thanks for the fun with math!! Very cool!!! I have a 6 speed manual NV5600. I don't purchase automatic vehicles. Gears were meant to be rowed through in my view. Mike has an NV4500 at (0.75:1) My NV5600 is at (0.73:1) Let me know if you know how to add that to the algorytm cause I don't.

If I do the regearing it's gong to the best shop in LA who's been doing this stuff since before color, because I totally agree with your philosphy. Thank you for the other option to consder!!!

Oh yea my zero-to-sixty rate won't make any records that's for sure. It'll be good enough to get me where I want to be. Right now getting up to speed is rather slow, like Mother's molassas, and I'm guessing if I get the difs regeared to 3.73 I'll see a marked improvement.